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More work done to the 3240. Here's what the rear fender looked like before. The previous owner painted over the original color with a lighter yellow, or it faded.


I am using the Majic Cub Yellow from TSC, but I did also spray paint over it with a clear lacquer.


The front lights are nothing more than DRLs on my machine, so this area got painted black just to tidy it up a little.


Hood and nose back on. I cleaned up the headlight lens as best I could. I think Steve Urquell had a good idea with the black hood like the Yanmar Cubs. A blue or white Cub Cadet decal would probably look good here, maybe even with some yellow accents.


I had to remake the electrical wires for the rear lights again and tried to do a better job.


It did come out better, but I wired up one light incorrectly and killed it. :confused: I'll have to get another set eventually, but at least one rear light is working.


I mounted up the rear fender. For now, I left the mudflap off. It was very rigid, interfering with the levers, and looked pretty beat up.


Rear tires back on, levers on, seat on; I'm getting excited!


I should be able to try out the 3-point hitch, if it stops raining.


Things still left to do:
Install the front wheel weights.
Mount the rototiller.
Paint the side covers. Those would have been done with the fender, but my wife has been using them as a temporary fence around a hen who's been hatching eggs. :ROFLMAO:
Looking good man. I really need to see that with the side panels on. Tell that chicken to get on the ball and hatch them chicks out. :D
 

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Just finished the 5th mowing so swapped out the blades, air pre filter and greased everything. Talked really ugly after finally accessing the steering box zerks with a flexible extension. Oh man, I have to come up with an easier access to those 2 zerks as both of my rotten skin arms are now all scratched up and look awful. I wish Cub's never done a hard day's work or serviced a tractor designer was here, I'd make him grease them before kicking his butt.🤣
 

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Yeah, those are a pain to reach. I wonder if maybe extension hoses could be screwed into the steering box, instead of the zerk fittings? Then put zerk fittings at the end of the hoses? I don't know if that's something that's considered an acceptable solution for grease fittings, and making them easier to access. But it seems like it could work.
 
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I couldn't let the rain stop me from trying the 3pt hitch today. And right away I found a problem.


Cat 0 hitch, and cat 1 tiller. Big difference in width.


Not to worry. The tiller also came with the draft arms (from a JD X700 series). They have 5/8" holes at the mounting point and lift arms, and 1" at the tiller end.


Ahhh, more issues.


Too much binding from incorrect widths, and not enough lift. Back to the carport to get out of the torrential rain.


I used a piece of wood to figure out how wide the arms would be when attached to the tiller. Then I used long bolts and washers to get everything better aligned. The arms are swapped and essentially upside down. That gave me a little more lift because they curve at the ends. Also had to hammer on the chains where they are welded to the draft arms as they were rubbing the rear frame plate.


Success!!


Talk about a wheelie machine! I had to feather the forward pedal to avoid it :LOL: . Later, I was able to adjust the top link all the way out and get the tiller sitting mostly level. Now I can move it out of the rain.


Next item for the tiller is mating the pump to the pto. But I wanted to get the front weights on first.


These are JD weights that I picked up separately from the tiller. I painted them white in preparation to go on the 3240. They're 30lbs each.


So holes were drilled in the front rims. Not sure that Cub offered front weights as an option?


I picked up new hardware at TSC for the install. I probably visit Tractor Supply at least once a week.


Once last shot of it assembled. I'm not interested in laying on the wet pavement to install the pump, so maybe another day.
 

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Yeah, those are a pain to reach. I wonder if maybe extension hoses could be screwed into the steering box, instead of the zerk fittings? Then put zerk fittings at the end of the hoses? I don't know if that's something that's considered an acceptable solution for grease fittings, and making them easier to access. But it seems like it could work.
Yeah that's a good thought.(y)
The panel itself is only $20.00 and had also thought about removing it, cutting a rectangular access hole then close it off. Maybe figure out a way to close it back up using the cut out piece encased in a removable frame, snap in/out or even a door. If it didn't work only out $20.00 and I've spent more than that in one sitting on guitar picks & strings; hum sounds like another rednek enjunerin' project.:unsure:
 

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I couldn't let the rain stop me from trying the 3pt hitch today. And right away I found a problem.


Cat 0 hitch, and cat 1 tiller. Big difference in width.


Not to worry. The tiller also came with the draft arms (from a JD X700 series). They have 5/8" holes at the mounting point and lift arms, and 1" at the tiller end.


Ahhh, more issues.


Too much binding from incorrect widths, and not enough lift. Back to the carport to get out of the torrential rain.


I used a piece of wood to figure out how wide the arms would be when attached to the tiller. Then I used long bolts and washers to get everything better aligned. The arms are swapped and essentially upside down. That gave me a little more lift because they curve at the ends. Also had to hammer on the chains where they are welded to the draft arms as they were rubbing the rear frame plate.


Success!!


Talk about a wheelie machine! I had to feather the forward pedal to avoid it :LOL: . Later, I was able to adjust the top link all the way out and get the tiller sitting mostly level. Now I can move it out of the rain.


Next item for the tiller is mating the pump to the pto. But I wanted to get the front weights on first.


These are JD weights that I picked up separately from the tiller. I painted them white in preparation to go on the 3240. They're 30lbs each.


So holes were drilled in the front rims. Not sure that Cub offered front weights as an option?


I picked up new hardware at TSC for the install. I probably visit Tractor Supply at least once a week.


Once last shot of it assembled. I'm not interested in laying on the wet pavement to install the pump, so maybe another day.
Youre turning that into a mean machine. Good job!
 

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B440, that's looking great! Can't wait to see it put to work!
 

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Progress has been slow due to waiting for parts. Took the starter apart and it is in excellent condition so it got cleaned and lubricated. The float came in today so I was able to finish the carburetor. Still waiting on engine seals from CC. I found that one can get engine parts from OPE engines cheaper and they send the parts quickly.


2506494
 

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Yes, figuring out where to source parts is always a challenge (price, availability, shipping, even what name to use for the part).
 

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Yup, I can agree to that. Sourcing parts is always interesting.

I ran into a snag on the way the tiller pump operates, so I'm also waiting on parts. I have the jackshaft and pillow block bearings, and I just need the pulleys which should be in tomorrow. I think I can source belts from my local TSC or Runnings. It will all be better explained with pictures, when I get it working.
 

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Parts came in.


Cutting this piece off the hydraulic pump bracket and removing the welded-in pin where the hole is are the only two modifications I made that would not allow it to return to stock JD form.


I drilled two holes and cut the ugly square in the middle. The square was easier than making a 1 inch hole. The metal is fairly thick.


Pillow block bearing mounted. There will be one mounted to the other side also.


Here's the first mock up.


Final configuration in this pic. I made two trips to the stores to get the correct 22" belts. I used the driveshaft from an extra mower deck I had, but had to source the 3/4" end and make it work with the driveshaft. With this setup, the pump will spin in the correct direction.


It mounts in the location where the deck arms would go. In this pic I am adding a bracket that keeps everything from swinging back and forth. I tried to use pins where I could to make mounting/dismounting quicker.


The other half of the driveshaft is the shorter version from my snowblower. The deck driveshaft was much too long.


Another shot of the driveshaft. You can see the bracket better that keeps it from swaying.


Shot from the backside. Eventually I'll shorten the jackshaft.


And a video showing it operating.

It still needs to fine tuning. I tried it in the compost pile and it worked, but I managed to stop the tines. When I came back, I checked and the fluid was low in the tiller. I topped it off but it was getting dark. I'll play some more tomorrow. I also need to secure the hydraulic lines better. They're just hanging under the tractor.
 

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Wow, that looks great! Nice work! I hope it's just a matter of a low fluid level. I've never quite understood why shaft-driven decks are a big benefit, but it seems to have been a nice way to power the pump!
 

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Welp, still no-go. She's still slipping. And I confirmed the slipping is from the double pulleys. I tried adding a tensioner, but had the same result.



I think the issue is that I'm using 3" pulleys. I broke my own rule of never buying a pulley that is smaller than 3.5", and slipping is the reason (I wasn't sure if I would have enough room for larger pulleys). The belts end up touching the middle of the pulley and lose friction because they can't pull any further into the V-groove. So new pulleys ordered...

But here's a video of my 1864 moving the compost pile so I can eventually rototill it.
 

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Sorry man. Hope ya get it going.

I etching primed and painted the backside of all my 3205 tins with Van Sickle Intl yellow with hardener. Came out pretty good. I'll do the front sides next weekend.

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Welp, still no-go. She's still slipping. And I confirmed the slipping is from the double pulleys. I tried adding a tensioner, but had the same result.



I think the issue is that I'm using 3" pulleys. I broke my own rule of never buying a pulley that is smaller than 3.5", and slipping is the reason (I wasn't sure if I would have enough room for larger pulleys). The belts end up touching the middle of the pulley and lose friction because they can't pull any further into the V-groove. So new pulleys ordered...

But here's a video of my 1864 moving the compost pile so I can eventually rototill it.
That setup doesn't look like it puts much tension on the belt (that's a WAY smaller spring for a double pulley setup, compared to say the deck pulley on my walkbehind mowers, and they also have more leverage [as in, the spring is much further away from the pivot than the pulley is]). It wouldn't surprise me if you put more tension on the belts, and it stops slipping.
 

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Sorry to hear it's still slipping. As Dave said, I'd try a stiffer spring.

And just to ask the simple stuff, the idler is on the non-"working" half of the belt, right? That is, as the pulley system works, and the driving pulley puts tension on the belt, that's not the belt half where the idler is, right?

And I didn't quite follow what you meant about the middle of the belt touching the pulley. That certainly means the belt isn't fitting properly, only the angled sides should touch the pulley. But I wouldn't think that should depend on the pulley diameter. Is the belt the proper width? If it's too narrow, it could touch the pulley at the middle (flat portion) of the belt.
 

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Man those look good! Doing the whole thing in yellow?
Gonna have a black hood and yellow wheels with custom decals to look like a Yanmar/Cub Sc2400

2506940

2506941
 
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