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Cub Cadet models 3240 & 2165
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Anti-seize on the bolts when you put them back in. Never know if they will have to come out again, BUT if the do, then they will.
MikeC
When I bought the liquid wrench I also purchased the anti-sieze compound.
 

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Not sure what you meant by the bubba bracket, but that bracket is an engine lifting bracket in conjunction with the one on the opposite side . The battery ground should be attached to the engine block near the oil drain and not to that bracket. I don't know how much the engine weighs because I use an auto engine lift to remove mine and I like my back the way it is.
So there is an identical bracket in the same place on the other side? Those little bolts came out on the other side. I think the exhaust nuts may be a challenge also and I found that bracket in the cylinder head parts look up.



I found the other lift bracket, it is part of the throttle bracket on the front of the engine.
 

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Some people have gotten creative. Such as using a strong branch of a tree, and attaching a hoist, a block-and-tackle, etc, to that. Granted, you'd have to get the tractor over there somehow first. But that sort of thing could be an option, for lifting more easily.

Then maybe lower the engine onto a furniture dolly or something. Or onto a little yard cart, if available, especially if there's another tractor available for pulling duty.

I got a used hoist like this last fall for under $10:

It has an 8:1 ratio, so to lift 90 pounds I'd be pulling with about 12.

Good luck, keep yourself safe!
 

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This is my 3240 as I received her back in early 2020. She's come a long way since then. I was able to try out the 48" striping deck and it does a remarkably good job, but I didn't buy this machine to cut grass.


So here's the last current pic before I send the 3240 back in for major surgery. She is mostly set up the way I like and runs well.


Annnnd a little teaser pic for what I have planned.


My biggest issue here is motivation because of the amount of work I'll be doing. There's more work to be done than what's in the picture above. But I think if it's completed in smaller stages, then I won't feel so overwhelmed. More pics to come as I progress.
 

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Going through my treasure pile in back of my shop I found a hiller/furrower from a horse tiller.
Decided I would fit it to the 3225 so I could furrow rows after tilling the wifes garden (sounds much better than rake and hoe to do the job).
I built is so the furrower is in line with just outside center of rear tires, it can be flipper for use on either side.
Have not gotten a chance to try as my tiller seized up when I went to go till the area (another project to fix now).
 

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Installed the Drive pedal dampener. Hoping this solves my issue where the tractor tries to throw me off the seat when letting off the reverse pedal :D

 

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More work to the 3-point hitch. Mocking up the cylinder: The original hoses that come with the kit will reach the forward-most spool valve.


I removed the lines for the deck lift. I will not be using it anymore. The lower line fit like a glove. The upper straight line, well, I had to make three small dents to get it to curve a little and fit over the transaxle. I tested it out for a couple minutes cycling the valve and it doesn't appear to be leaking. I think Cub assumed everyone would just use the rear-most spool for the hitch.


I mounted up all the pieces to the hitch plate and I think this section of the tractor is complete for now! I don't want to put the arms on yet because the space I'm working in has limited room.


Oh, can anyone tell me why there's this random jog in the rear plate? I could've sworn I've seen an internet pic of two hydraulic quick-connect lines similar to the front quick connects attached in that area. Can anyone confirm or know anything about it?


Now onto the mid-section of the tractor. I removed the foot fender and proceeded to remove unnecessary parts. That deck cylinder is tiny compared to all the others. Even the deck cylinder from my 1864 is much fatter.


Next, I'm going to revisit the drive pedals and add the bronze bushings as all of you have done.
 

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Cub Cadet models 3240 & 2165
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I got the engine pulled tonight. I also have limited space and almost regretted buying this because of that. But now that I am into it I am managing and having fun.

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:LOL: I guess space is a relative word Ken4; You have lots more room than I do. And a nice way to hoist the engine out of the frame.

I tackled the reverse again after taking notes from the MTF 3000 series gang. With the foot fender off, I was able to place two fence nails to remove the slack. It's a little hard to see the second nail in this pic.


Here is my main offender.


Drilled out the holes with a step bit and added the bronze bushings.


Ran into the same issue others have had with not enough clearance to put the clip back in.


So I ground down the flange. Boy those Oilite bushings smoke when you heat them up!


Also drilled out the holes and added bushings to this link.


Had to thin out the flanges on those also to put the clips back on.


That's as far as I could get this morning, but I'm glad that's done. Everything feels tight now for pedal linkage. Next thing to do is move further forward to install the air tunnel (bellow?) and upgrade the cooling shroud.

Anything I may have missed on the pedal linkage?
 

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Interesting, and thanks for showing. I am doing the front half right now but when I get to the back half I will check all this stuff out. If I was not retired I would be able to take this kind of stuff to work and spin it down in a lathe. I am looking forward to seeing the cooling shroud upgrade.
 

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Pulled the cooling shroud off today. I think this is MTD's largest flaw on the 3000 series. Removing the battery, unbolting the driveshaft, muffler and engine just to be able to get at the shroud is ridiculous. I remove a mouse nest from at least one tractor a year.


Cub makes a kit to add two removable covers to the shroud. I found the shroud on a GT3200 that already had them (on the right). This is my upgrade for the 3240.


A view of the backside.


All installed and I paid for a new tunnel cover from Messicks because the original one got chewed up by the driveshaft.


Now for a little painting. I gave the exhaust a little High Heat gloss black because it is visible from the front of the machine.


It was also a good time to paint the seat fender since it was off. Paint peel everywhere!


The underside gets the black..... because nobody will see it anyway. Top will be yellow.


Once I finish painting, I can tackle rear light connections (again) and wheel weights.
 

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Do you think that with the removable plates you would be able to change the coils through them. Where did you see the kit to add the plates.
 

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I don't recall where I had seen the kit. I know I was looking through parts diagrams though. I'm not sure you could fit a coil through the holes.
 

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Got the crank seals out OK. I was surprised that they were still pliable but one of them had crud in between the two lips on the flywheel side. Did you use any sealer when installing the new ones ?
 

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Got the crank seals out OK. I was surprised that they were still pliable but one of them had crud in between the two lips on the flywheel side. Did you use any sealer when installing the new ones ?
I don't. The rubber coating on the seal body is sufficient if the surfaces are clean and dry. I always wipe the engine's seal area down with naptha or another solvent to make sure there is no oil on it.
 

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More work done to the 3240. Here's what the rear fender looked like before. The previous owner painted over the original color with a lighter yellow, or it faded.


I am using the Majic Cub Yellow from TSC, but I did also spray paint over it with a clear lacquer.


The front lights are nothing more than DRLs on my machine, so this area got painted black just to tidy it up a little.


Hood and nose back on. I cleaned up the headlight lens as best I could. I think Steve Urquell had a good idea with the black hood like the Yanmar Cubs. A blue or white Cub Cadet decal would probably look good here, maybe even with some yellow accents.


I had to remake the electrical wires for the rear lights again and tried to do a better job.


It did come out better, but I wired up one light incorrectly and killed it. :confused: I'll have to get another set eventually, but at least one rear light is working.


I mounted up the rear fender. For now, I left the mudflap off. It was very rigid, interfering with the levers, and looked pretty beat up.


Rear tires back on, levers on, seat on; I'm getting excited!


I should be able to try out the 3-point hitch, if it stops raining.


Things still left to do:
Install the front wheel weights.
Mount the rototiller.
Paint the side covers. Those would have been done with the fender, but my wife has been using them as a temporary fence around a hen who's been hatching eggs. :ROFLMAO:
 
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