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Unfortunately no Gravely work got done here today. There is rain in the forecast so likely be some time this week. Grass needs to be mowed and it's Gravely tall now.
 

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I spent several hours the other day using the front blade to push dirt around. The 816 did an incredible job, including when the rain came in and the ground got muddy. The 816 behaved like it was 4wd, even on a slope.

This walk behind is for sale near me for $500. He says it runs good and it comes with the brush cutter and blade. I really don’t need it, although it would come in handy clearing out brush along slopes on my property vs using a blade on my Echo trimmer. What do you all think?
That L8 is exactly like mine, and I have a sulky and a big blade exactly like that but its yellow.
View attachment 2501636 View attachment 2501637
 

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I spent several hours the other day using the front blade to push dirt around. The 816 did an incredible job, including when the rain came in and the ground got muddy. The 816 behaved like it was 4wd, even on a slope.

This walk behind is for sale near me for $500. He says it runs good and it comes with the brush cutter and blade. I really don’t need it, although it would come in handy clearing out brush along slopes on my property vs using a blade on my Echo trimmer. What do you all think?
Mine has the other shift handle under the right hand handle bar. But other than that its the same.

View attachment 2501636 View attachment 2501637
 

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I played with the LI today. New condenser installed and new carb bowl gasket. Still a no go. Will fire a few rounds and quite.
Yea I quit messin with my LI or L8 whatever that thing is. It used to start, started when we drove it onto my truck but chain came off the first time we started it at sellers house so we just put it on and drove it up the 2x10's into my Ranger, took crappy sprocket off and put a new one on and cant get to start anymore, so I went back to my L model.
Wich Im gonna start a thread about timeing it.
 

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Yea I quit messin with my LI or L8 whatever that thing is. It used to start, started when we drove it onto my truck but chain came off the first time we started it at sellers house so we just put it on and drove it up the 2x10's into my Ranger, took crappy sprocket off and put a new one on and cant get to start anymore, so I went back to my L model.
Wich Im gonna start a thread about timeing it.
It will run just need to figure out why not. If it just thinks it can sit around and be lazy it's not going to happen.
 

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Did you clean and gap the points?

Assuming yes, it sounds like a fuel problem. If you give it a good shot of carb cleaner, then crank it, do you get a good half-dozen puffs?

If so, you may be able to keep squirting a shot of carb cleaner in the intake every few seconds, and get it to keep running that way. That's pretty much a guarantee that your carb is gummed up, or you have an obstruction in the fuel line.
 

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I can get a few puffs and that is it. Will be getting some more gasket material and some carb cleaner. What is the real points setting on an LI with the waco supposed to be? I have read any where from .15 tp .33. I am goin back to the .15 from the Gravely manual.
 

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I can get a few puffs and that is it. Will be getting some more gasket material and some carb cleaner. What is the real points setting on an LI with the waco supposed to be? I have read any where from .15 tp .33. I am goin back to the .15 from the Gravely manual.
Right, go with .015.

Is this machine strap start or electric?
 

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Right, go with .015.

Is this machine strap start or electric?
Strap start. Real hard to spray anything in the carb and pull the strap at the same time.
Now for a question. How much space is except able on the spacer between the mag drive and the mag. Here is what it has. Is this a problem?i
 

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That looks ok. You want a little space, so the fiber coupler can move back and forth. I've never seen a spec for it. I generally put a thin piece of cardboard (like a playing card) in there when tightening up the bolt. Then after it's buttoned up, make sure I can wiggle the fiber part just a little.

You might need a helper to spray stuff while you yank the strap.
 

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That looks ok. You want a little space, so the fiber coupler can move back and forth. I've never seen a spec for it. I generally put a thin piece of cardboard (like a playing card) in there when tightening up the bolt. Then after it's buttoned up, make sure I can wiggle the fiber part just a little.

You might need a helper to spray stuff while you yank the strap.
I was questioning the gap in the couple to mag dogs in the second picture. The gag on the other side is tight compared to the back side bottom picture. Am in the process of checking valve clearance on the intake with the carb off what better time. Present at .006 intake cold. Not sure when done last but will open it up to .008. Might as well check exhaust also.
 

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I was questioning the gap in the couple to mag dogs in the second picture.
Ah. You don't really need to worry about that. The thing only turns in one direction, so you don't have to worry if there's some slop there. As long as the timing marks line up when turning forward, you're good.
The gag on the other side is tight compared to the back side bottom picture. Am in the process of checking valve clearance on the intake with the carb off what better time. Present at .006 intake cold. Not sure when done last but will open it up to .008. Might as well check exhaust also.
You want .012 on both intake and exhaust, cold.

It's just barely possible that tight/dirty valves is causing your problem. I've seen crud on the valve stem cause valves to close slowly, causing weak compression. You could try squirting some oil in there and running the valves up and down, while you're checking the lifters. You could also put a bunch of oil in the plug hole, and run the piston slowly up and down. Some of the oil will get on the valves heads, and drip around to run down the stem.
 

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Ah. You don't really need to worry about that. The thing only turns in one direction, so you don't have to worry if there's some slop there. As long as the timing marks line up when turning forward, you're good.

You want .012 on both intake and exhaust, cold.

It's just barely possible that tight/dirty valves is causing your problem. I've seen crud on the valve stem cause valves to close slowly, causing weak compression. You could try squirting some oil in there and running the valves up and down, while you're checking the lifters. You could also put a bunch of oil in the plug hole, and run the piston slowly up and down. Some of the oil will get on the valves heads, and drip around to run down the stem.
Had the valves and stems soaking in MMO for a week last fall. If the valves were not closing the gap should be greater than spec. At .006 the intake would not have closed at all if the valve was stuck.
Carb is ready to go back on. Will check the exhaust valve clearance after that.
 

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Seeing all the threads about timing a magneto, I thought I would check mine. '68 C8. Well, it was lined up at 7/16" btdc. So I adjusted it, and all of a sudden a loss of power and backfiring. Checked it again and it had slipped. I guess I didn't tighten it up enough. Reset and tightened and all is right with the world. Idling at low rpm has never been its strong suit. So off comes the carb for a cleaning. I am using the cast iron carb off my '48 until I can rebuild or replace the aluminum carb it came with. Started up after cleaning and after adjustment, it now idles as slow as I would like it to run. I put the 30" deck on it and mower for 3 hours. I really love these old machines.

The '48 runs great, but needs a left axle seal as oil flows pretty well out from it. Also the cylinder is scored and it smokes alot. Not sure whether I am going to replace the jug and piston yet. Still waiting on my sickle bar mower to be delivered.

Sorry for the incoherent rambling. Gerrard, a third arm would be real handy when timing one of these things. I had my pocket ruler with the sliding clip set at the right height in the plug hole, a screwdriver holding the started sprocket( which I am not using) I turned the mag until the lines lined up, and wedged a screwdriver under the clamp, keeping the lines lined up. And rotated the crank by the flywheel until the ruler just got bumped. Then tightened up the clamp. I wish I had taken a picture.

I hope all have a great mother's day.
 
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