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Make sure to check the timing before you loosen up things to change it.
 

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Hey Greg, if that was for me Im not gonna do anything but line up the mag coupler w/the two holes and line as a guy on you tube shows and take piston to TDC on comp stroke and that stuff.
This guy on you tube shows how and makes it look pretty simple and I love that video, he has a all red L model with some white on the ends of fuel tank and first he shows you on a mag he has that isnt on a machine, my kinda guy as Im a simple man.
The thing runs and sounds like a drag racing Harley when starting w/a drill and I pulled the strap a cpl times and it felt like it broke a cpl of my fingers so I said " heck w/this" and spent $ 1,200 on a L 8 that I dont even like and would trade it for a nice L and take the beating.
But the L mod man I had carb rebuilt by someone on here ( forgot who but they knew what they was doing) and I polished the inside of that thing and polished / cleaned very well the intake and exhaust manifolds and reground valves and they are right, put duals on it and a bunch of other stuff so its ready to go but I have never set the timeing. Its behind the L8 in this mess
 

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I figured out that my arbor wasn't holding alignment. The stress of cutting the teeth was causing it to rotate ever so slightly. Time for a new arbor. This time I'll put index flats on the shaft which goes in the indexing head. And weld the shaft into the business end.
Now that the 816 trans swap is done, I had time to get back to the snow-cannon gear project.

My new arbor worked great. I cut teeth into another gear blank, and this time it matched up perfectly. When I got around to the first cut, "nothing but net" :)

Made up a spacer to fill the gap between the gear and the right-side gearbox cover. I figured aluminum would be fine for that.

Welded, turned, and cut new splines in the worm shaft. That took a couple of tries getting the cutter depth right, so that the coupler would go on there, but I ended up in a pretty decent position.

I partially reassembled the auger gearbox. it's snug getting that gear in there, but that's probably a good thing. Once I got it all lined up, it all turned smoothly.

Next steps: Finish buttoning up the gearbox. Put the blower back together. Stick it on one of the walkers to see if it all spins nicely. No snow around right now, but it should be good to go for next year.
 

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Now that the 816 trans swap is done, I had time to get back to the snow-cannon gear project.

My new arbor worked great. I cut teeth into another gear blank, and this time it matched up perfectly. When I got around to the first cut, "nothing but net" :)

Made up a spacer to fill the gap between the gear and the right-side gearbox cover. I figured aluminum would be fine for that.

Welded, turned, and cut new splines in the worm shaft. That took a couple of tries getting the cutter depth right, so that the coupler would go on there, but I ended up in a pretty decent position.

I partially reassembled the auger gearbox. it's snug getting that gear in there, but that's probably a good thing. Once I got it all lined up, it all turned smoothly.

Next steps: Finish buttoning up the gearbox. Put the blower back together. Stick it on one of the walkers to see if it all spins nicely. No snow around right now, but it should be good to go for next year.
That is some nice work. Jealous of the tools, but moreso the know-how. I could buy the tools. Wouldn't do me any good though. :cool:
 

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Thanks Lnk.

The great thing about machine tools, at least the old-style kind that I use, is that everything's right out in the open. As long as you have a clear idea in your head about what you're trying to accomplish, it's all just simple technique.

It's very satisfying to start with a chunk of stock, and end with a workable part.
 
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Well as for what I did with my Gravely today I made this contraption with some real skill and machine shop measurements, well I cut a 2x4 lol! So maybe when I try to start it the thing will stay still but who knows.
Had to find something to do so I would leave the bolt on the magneto coupler alone till tomorrow after some PB Blaster hopefully will work on it.
I couldnt get it loose because it had been painted, not by me but someone had beat me to it I recon but the threads on opposite side of bolt head had paint on them and I took a emory board and cleaned up all of the flat places on bolt head so a good fit w/a wrench could be obtained. I dont wanna break that dang bolt for nothing. Will try again tomorrow.
Thats how it works w/me I finally get the golf balls to try to time it and cant get the bolt off. It sure snaps loud as heck tho.
 

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Very nice work, John. The gear you made is impressive!
Thanks Dave

After I get this one buttoned up and prove it works, I'm going to make up a few more. Having spares will mean I never need to use them :)
 

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Well today my Rapid XZ got its third battery since built. And a brand new seat. Not too bad for a discontinued mower that is now 14 years old. But now I hurt from doing the work.
 

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Don, how are you doing (aside from hurting from the battery replacement) ? I haven't seen you here in a long time.
 

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I spent several hours the other day using the front blade to push dirt around. The 816 did an incredible job, including when the rain came in and the ground got muddy. The 816 behaved like it was 4wd, even on a slope.

This walk behind is for sale near me for $500. He says it runs good and it comes with the brush cutter and blade. I really don’t need it, although it would come in handy clearing out brush along slopes on my property vs using a blade on my Echo trimmer. What do you all think?

2501636
2501637
 

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The 816 did an incredible job,
:)
This walk behind is for sale near me for $500. What do you all think?
Circa 1970 super convertible. With an astonishingly ugly paint job :)

You've got duals, and the MA106 deck, with the chain front guard. That's all good for brush work on slopes. But it doesn't have the swiftomatic axle. That's a little wierd, most of them did.

If it's a solid runner, 500 is a decent price for all that. But if you want to run it on slopes, you're going to want it as slow as possible. If it's the rare CS model, you're all set. A CI might also be ok. A plain C is probably too fast. If you go for it, I recommend you try running it around a bit to get a feel for the speed, and decide whether it will work for your use case.
 

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Thanks. The seller is going to look for a tag with the model on it.

What’s the swiftomatic axle?
Two speed axle. There's a third shift lever below the right bar, which shifts the axle from hi to lo. Lo is half the speed of hi. Super helpful when going through rough stuff.

There likely isn't a tag. After gravely went to the convertibles, they ditched the data plate on the tank cover, and just had a small plate with the S/N on the advance casting. That doesn't tell you the model.

Older machines came from the factory with a washer carefully placed on the right hand axle housing. If you knew what to look for you could tell the model from that. I think they discontinued that practice later too.

Bottom line, try it. If the speed it moves at is fine for what you want to, you're good.
 
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Well switched from blowers and blades
DSC04461.JPG

DSC04464.JPG To mowers

DSC04466.JPG Also moved the 57 SR and 99 pro 8 to put my snow mobile away

DSC04499.JPG Got the 450 running, will need a battery and some tinkering, and pulled the 12 G over to change full pump, and battery to hopefully pull my gravely roller around the yard. Has a sulky ball on back already
 
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