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FWIW, when I mow (doesn't matter if I'm mulching, bagging or letting it fly), I do the boundaries first, with the left side of the deck against the edges of sidewalks, mulch beds, etc. (right/discharge towards open lawn area).

Then, if the grass is deep or thick, I make subsequent passes by only taking a 1/2 - 2/3 bite of new grass. I let the left side run over the previous cut path. This seems to leave the least amount of clumping, especially if I'm using the Trac Vac.

BTW, thin rows at the end don't bother me. What does bother me are the small "cowlick" patches that pop up randomly to taunt you after the mower is cleaned up and put away...

Mike
 

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Good luck with the chipper. Looks like it is halfway to JD green already. I pulled this Bandit 65 rental unit all around the woods at my own property and my daughter's property for a body blasting weekend a couple years ago with my x728. It definitely was an overload for the brakes, but not an issue for the engine. So the pull, even up hill was no problem. The steer and runway on the way down definitely required some planning.

Could you drop the grapple to slow down a runaway? or would that just cause a catastrophic event?

I had a 2,000 pound diamond safe in the bucket of my Hough Payloader going down a steep incline. It had a Hercules flat head six in it, and I think it weighed 12,000 pounds. It blew a brake line and took off. Only thing I could think to do was drop the bucket. When the bucket hit the ground the rear wheels came up in the air and it blew a hydro line to the bucket and drenched me. Things you do when you're a kid.

View attachment 2506794

The unit I rented might have been a Bandit 65 xlt or something. Not sure if it is the same.
Thanks Jere, I just came in from trying it out. I was going to shoot a video and my cell went dead after 3 seconds. I'm really impressed how fine the chips are. I put it on China tractor because I was taking it up and down some real steep hills. Boy, I like that grapple.
 

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Done... now to figure out a base for it...

Is the orange frame a dune buggy? I see lights so it won’t be a Formula V.


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Done... now to figure out a base for it...

I had an old horse drawn hay rake with a pan seat on it. I was going to put it on an old metal five gallon milk can. With the spring, that would be too tall. Maybe two rear wheels bolted together through two stud holes, then three casters through the other stud holes?
 

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Hearing about Forest mulching, I wonder if that would work on the horrible silver maple seeds. That tree sheds more seeds than all the other maples on my property. The lawn under it is such a mess right now. I tried the pflow and it doesn’t suck enough.



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I had a TSC yard sweeper and that worked well on Maple seeds and Pine needles.
 

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Is the orange frame a dune buggy? I see lights so it won’t be a Formula V.


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It definitely has a VW front beam.
It is... long story with that one... Short version... it is a friend's rail. He became ill and gave it to me. Engine is brand new and had never been started in 8 years. I am finishing it. Yet another project...

Here is an old photo in my friend's garage. I moved it to my house after that. Guy in the photo is another friend that was helping me sort out a few things before we moved it.





And a video when I finally got the engine running...

 

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I had an old horse drawn hay rake with a pan seat on it. I was going to put it on an old metal five gallon milk can. With the spring, that would be too tall. Maybe two rear wheels bolted together through two stud holes, then three casters through the other stud holes?
Actually, I like that idea. Now I’m on the search for a pan seat and spring, any wheel painted yellow will work.
That would look very cool... hummmmmm :)(y)
 

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I took the tin covers off my mower deck belt drive assembly. .. It was packed with hardened grass and grit. I cleaned it out with pressured air and then wire brushed it and then more air. I then spray painted the inside with rusty metal primer. Now Im thinking there has to be a better way to keep grass and dirt out of there. Some thoughts were just to put a caulking gun to the outer seam between the tin and the deck.

Has anyone else addressed how to seal the outer edge of those tins. (This is off of a JD316).
 

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Hate to say this but most of us just remove them so that it makes cleaning easier. None of my decks have the tins on them, I have them "stored" in case I ever sell a deck. However if you have children around that may be unsafe, but the more you try to seal those the more I think you will lock in moisture.
 

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Hate to say this but most of us just remove them so that it makes cleaning easier. None of my decks have the tins on them, I have them "stored" in case I ever sell a deck. However if you have children around that may be unsafe, but the more you try to seal those the more I think you will lock in moisture.
I have them off of all of my mowers, except my 52" walk behind, and if it wasn't for sale, it would be off. I leave them off for the above reasons. But, it also makes it easier to grease, and with 11 lawns, that's a lot of greasing. Then the biggest reason, was with the walk behind. I had several yards that backed up to farms, with 3 board horse fences. The deck on the walk behind sticks out far enough that I could mow about 6 inches under the bottom fence board. I got a little carried away with how fast I could zip around the fence posts, and clipped one. The deck floats enough that it pushed it back a few inches and threw the drive belt. The deck cover originally had black plastic hand wheels to screw in the bolts. When I got it, there was only one hand wheel left. He put in bolts he must have had laying around. It only needed bolts maybe an inch long, and his were about 3 inches long, and all I had with me was a set of end wrenches. It took half an hour to do a one minute job. After I took the shield off, I bumped a tree and I think another fence post and threw the belt. I was able to just grab the belt and get it half way on the pulley, grab the pulley, and give it a turn and pop right back on. From the time I shut the mower down to starting it back up, maybe 1 minute.
 

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I took the tin covers off my mower deck belt drive assembly. .. It was packed with hardened grass and grit. I cleaned it out with pressured air and then wire brushed it and then more air. I then spray painted the inside with rusty metal primer. Now Im thinking there has to be a better way to keep grass and dirt out of there. Some thoughts were just to put a caulking gun to the outer seam between the tin and the deck.

Has anyone else addressed how to seal the outer edge of those tins. (This is off of a JD316).
Most guys just take the off. I have a 322 and a 318 and the tins are brand new.
 

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Well here's a video of the Bandit 65. I had my buddy do one with all the small limbs off another Gum tree, and he didn't have the camera on video. Had my daughter come down and shoot this one. I wanted a crooked limb with side branches sticking out just to see how it handled them. i did some straight limbs close to 6" yesterday and it made the finest chips I have ever seen. The knives and adjustment must be perfect. I'd like to get it tuned up before I use it much. My cousin said, why, it runs? The plugs are all rusty on the outside, really doesn't mean much. The plug wires have the original green over spray on them. That could make a difference. Looks like a new carb on it. I'm happy so far. I even shot a short video of the fine chips. So, for your viewing pleasure.
 

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I just hit a real puzzler... Everything was going great : 1) dual brakes installed, 2) starter relay working great . 3) mower deck tins removed ..
..then the park knob is stuck in the park position ?...

any idea what is going wrong, I wonder if my dual brake installation missed something ?
 

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My guess would be that the setting of the dual brakes may have been off. Did you set each side up to spec individually with the parking brake set (both brakes on)?
 
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