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I'm sorry, the negative wire is the ground, and it just gets grounded to the block. That's it with the metal loop on it and I just sandwuched it between two parts of the case.The kill switch wire goes to the points terminal to ground out the system.



You can see the shiny screw with the nylock nut on it. That's the ground.
 
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Well, past three days I haven't sat on a JD, but I was thinking about it with every drop of sweat. I still have a few stones to place, and as Jere mentioned, the weather guessers are calling for major wetness.So I got in a piece of 3" flexible drain pipe around the top down to the patio, so the rain wont wash dirt and mulch in the pond. Took the old pond apart Friday, and dug about 3 yards more dirt out, and removed the top ten feet of water fall. Saturday we put the old liners in for leak protection, and then got the new liner, about twice as big in. Started filling it so the water would push some of the wrinkles out of the liner. On the bottom I built a Gold Fish Habit Trail. They can go into the rock wall in at least ten places, and the whole back is hollow, so they can come out anywhere. The Pond Supply place Is closed Sunday and Monday so we couldn't get the tubing to run the spitting frog and the water fall. Get that in and we will be done, Joe.
Joe, throw a quarter in and make a wish. Today's rain should fill it up.
 

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Thanks. My wife asked if they should drain some off because of the rain coming. I said no, it would be a waste of water if it didn’t over flow, and if it did overflow the stone wall around the patio would make a nice spillway.
 

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So its just an electronic switch, for higher amperage. An inexpensive version of the Kirk Engines Points saver. It still uses the points, but, they are very low amperage, so, no point arcing, no need for a condenser, and points last forever. Timing is adjusted a bit with point gap. I've used the kirk engines version on two tractors now. It makes a MAJOR difference in how they start/run.
 

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Ummm. Details?!?!?
Bought a K92 transaxle from an x585, also picked up the front axle complete with driveshaft. Welded new front axle mounts, put 2” frame spacers between the frame and axle mounts. Pretty much all there is to it. Also hydraulic hose extensions to the new steering cylinder.
 

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Is there a build thread for this???

Mike
Sorry I didn’t document anything, it’s annoying to me when I’m tinkering. I basically picked up a used k92 transaxle from an x585 along with the front axle. The k92 bolts right up as it’s basically the same dimensions. Welded new front axle mounts, a couple custom length driveshafts, and a manual shifter between the legs...that’s what she said. I’ll post a video doc or something.
 

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Very nice!

My tractor has a bumper, which should be plenty, like if I just drove it into a wall. But there's one spot by the house where I pull forward to a raised pipe, which would be above the bumper, and would hit the hood. I keep thinking I should add some sort of guard. I like yours!
 

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Looks very nice. I may need to get one. After I get my new lights to replace the ones I smashed. Actually, I smashed the hood, and the lights were still good, but they looked terrible on the new hood.
 

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Ammonium Chloride and a heat gun. Also, I printed a template using Microsoft Visio as it allows you to spread a print job over any number of sheets of paper: (56 sheets!! Took forever to assemble and tape down)
2468687
 

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Wow, don’t try that technique in Lebanon these days!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Trailer look great. What kind of finish did you use on the bed boards?
Probably do a coat or two of Thompsons, couldn't seal them till I put the logo on.
 

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Ammonium Chloride and a heat gun. Also, I printed a template using Microsoft Visio as it allows you to spread a print job over any number of sheets of paper: (56 sheets!! Took forever to assemble and tape down)
Wow, that came out awesome! Googling brought me to a page with some info, for those curious:
Chemical Woodburning | Make:

But they describe doing it with a stamp. How did you apply it? Did you cut out the paper after taping it down, using it like a stencil? Or did you paint the mixture onto the paper where it was needed, then heat it?
 
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Wow, that came out awesome! Googling brought me to a page with some info, for those curious:
Chemical Woodburning | Make:

But they describe doing it with a stamp. How did you apply it? Did you cut out the paper after taping it down, using it like a stencil? Or did you paint the mixture onto the paper where it was needed, then heat it?
Pictures may answer all the questions:

2468719
2468721

2468724
2468725

I used tape to hold the paper down after cutting it out, then applied the ammonium chloride, heated, removed tape from next area and repeat. Had to add some tape behind some of the spots I'd burned to keep the paper down, was a trial and error process but ended up working pretty good. Easier to see the blue painters tape that I started using as the scotch tape became a pain to handle after heating.

Note: This must be done on untreated wood. Everything I read or watched indicated any coating on the wood prevents this process from working.
 
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