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Finally- after having the parts kit in my spares stock for 6 years for the Kohler CV22 on my GT6000, decided to change the SAM module out and replace with the kit to convert to the CDI ignition. Was easy but timely. Was a good thing too because when I pulled the original flywheel off, two of the magnets fell off. How they managed to keep from tearing up the stator is beyond me.
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New flywheel installed. .................................Fan and ignition coils installed
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She started right up and runs like a champ. I noticed the placement of the magnet on the new flywheel has changed a bit. Also, the new wheel appears to weigh less. No more SAM module to deal with so thats a plus. I do wonder how she'll act under load compared to having the SAM module. Any before/after experiences from those who have done is welcome.
 

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. I noticed the placement of the magnet on the new flywheel has changed a bit. Also, the new wheel appears to weigh less.
I have 3 of the CV16's (CV15 with Sam) and have been told you can use them with a regular coil. I did put a standard coil on one of them and it ran but the gap was 1/8 of an inch, I didn't try to mow with it. I've had to reglue the magnets on a few of these engines but so far only one had broken magnets and a damaged stator. I've wondered what the difference was on the magnet placement between the Sam and the standard flywheels.
Cannon
 

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I've had to reglue the magnets on a few of these engines but so far only one had broken magnets and a damaged stator. I've wondered what the difference was on the magnet placement between the Sam and the standard flywheels.
Cannon
What glue did you use on the magnets? I have a Kohler flywheel with many magnets off. I was thinking JB Weld.
 

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I did use JB Weld. I used this Taryl video as a guide. You can skip the first 4 1/2 minutes.
I took the flywheel off an CV15 from the early 90's yesterday and 3 of the 4 magnets were loose but not broken.
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The 3 amp systems have 4 magnets the 15 amp ones have 6. I pulled this engine off an LT4000 and am cleaning it up to repower a newer tractor.
Cannon
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,866 ·
It stopped raining long enough for some of the grass to dry out..... Yay! Still going to have to clean out the deck again though. I put my hand underneath and could feel all the grass buildup.
 

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Hawaiian Hobby Farmer
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It stopped raining long enough for some of the grass to dry out.. I put my hand underneath and could feel all the grass buildup.
I love how flat that lawn is- a little jealous even, We get 250-300 inches of rain a year here so we are rarely mowing when our grass is totally dry, though there are a few days a month it doesn't rain. Decks don't last long at all here even if you wash them regularly. I ordered a replacement deck from Amazon, it was 500$ to get it here (no prime) and had NO parts on it. No spindles, wheels, pulleys, springs or bolts. Think getting a Short Block without the parts that make it a Short Block-Cams, Crank, pistons, etc. I have it in the garage, wrapped up, waiting for the day the deck under my 54" mower goes. That mower isn't running right now, so it's a Bad news / Good news thing- It's broke, but it isn't getting the wet grass rust rot either. I am running a T1000 Craftsman 42" mower for the time being.
Do you have the deck wash fitting on your deck? I have one that busted off before I bought the mower (used) and so haven't used one though it has a spot for one. Just wondering if it cleaned well enough that you don't need to tip the mower to get it really washed out and worth finding one.
 

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Wow, that's tough. I'd think that if you're diligent about washing a deck after EVERY use and store it indoors, you'd be able to avoid rust?

Do you mow year-round, or can you stop in the winter?

Mike
 
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I love how flat that lawn is- a little jealous even, We get 250-300 inches of rain a year here so we are rarely mowing when our grass is totally dry, though there are a few days a month it doesn't rain. Decks don't last long at all here even if you wash them regularly. I ordered a replacement deck from Amazon, it was 500$ to get it here (no prime) and had NO parts on it. No spindles, wheels, pulleys, springs or bolts. Think getting a Short Block without the parts that make it a Short Block-Cams, Crank, pistons, etc. I have it in the garage, wrapped up, waiting for the day the deck under my 54" mower goes. That mower isn't running right now, so it's a Bad news / Good news thing- It's broke, but it isn't getting the wet grass rust rot either. I am running a T1000 Craftsman 42" mower for the time being.
Do you have the deck wash fitting on your deck? I have one that busted off before I bought the mower (used) and so haven't used one though it has a spot for one. Just wondering if it cleaned well enough that you don't need to tip the mower to get it really washed out and worth finding one.
Sounds like I could make a decent living importing tractor parts to the Big Island!

I welded the wash port hole and all unnecessary holes closed. I went all out on this deck. It is actually the one from my FS5500:







 

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Sounds like I could make a decent living importing tractor parts to the Big Island!
I welded the wash port hole and all unnecessary holes closed. I went all out on this deck. It is actually the one from my FS5500
B440: Nice rebuild! What is the product that you used in the inside of the deck when you repainted it? And someone definitely does make a fortune!!! The phrase we dread here in merchant websites is "Does Not Ship to Alaska or Hawaii" so we don't check prices first when internet shopping, but rather, shipping policies to see if we can even get it sent to us. Often, we pay more to get an item shipped to us than the item is worth. This photo was found with a quick search, it is not my question, but it is an example of the frustration here.
A Shipping Question.png
Wow, that's tough. I'd think that if you're diligent about washing a deck after EVERY use and store it indoors, you'd be able to avoid rust?
Do you mow year-round, or can you stop in the winter?
Mikeinri: Hawaii is a tougher place to live than most people can imagine. The state falls within the northern latitudes of the Tropics and depending on elevation, most of the state does not have a 'Winter'. There is a cold band above the 5,000 foot altitude and they do endure cold temps and seasons like some states with occasional snow fall above 10,000' on Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, but that is not the bulk of the state. I am at 201 feet and sometimes a single foot here does make a difference, both in temps and what can be planted. If the directions state that a tree or plant grows well to 1400', we really cannot try at 1420'. Our year round temp averages in the 80's, but it's the humidity that makes us rust capitol of the Western States. It is even an acceptable color and surface state when buying anything used!
Dry for us, isn't really. 70% is as low as I've seen it here on our side and most days are at 85-95%. I chose the wet side of the island for a lot of reasons, rain being one of them. Even what qualifies as the desert area of the Island fights the rust. The salty ocean mist can travel great distances on the world famous trade winds, and is the main reason we are known as the Rainbow state. The air is filled with enough water vapor to support them. (we even have full circle Rainbows!)
To avoid the Rust, we'd need to pack most items, including tools in oil paper, keep them in a layer of light machine oil, or run heat or chemical dehumidifiers most of the time. Even a thick paint won't help mower decks here as the bits of lava rock and sticks that are lifted and spun through the blades nicking the inner deck will create a foothold. The riding mowers are almost considered as disposable items here. It's why I have so many; 5 of the 7 did not have decks when I bought them and those two that did were hammered. Zooming in on the hood and the deck of the T1000 you can see it's time to sand and repaint! I'm trying Automotive paint this time.
IMG_1894.JPG IMG_1896.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,871 ·
I just used oil-based black paint from tractor supply on the bottom of the deck. I brush it on thick so the grass has less places to hold onto. The more I do it, the easier it gets to clean the deck. Nothing I've tried stays under there forever, so I paint like I'm painting a bridge; thick and often.
 

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Unless the paint used on autos sold in Hawaii is better than we get in New England, I wouldn't hold my breath on that being an improvement, LOL...

The winter road salt used here kills most cars from below. The sun takes care of the paint on top.

Mike
 
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Wow, SuperK, that is wild! That is pretty brutal humidity!! And to also have that year-round, perhaps, oof. Here in New England, we have what I'd call a decent amount of humidity, but that doesn't really apply during the cold winters. So it's nothing like what you're dealing with. We have salted roads, of course, but that doesn't really do much to our lawn equipment. Maybe just our snowblowers, from when you're clearing the stuff at the street.

I really haven't heard much good feedback on those deck wash ports, no matter the brand. I tried that port once on a walk-behind mower, I'd call the results a disaster :) Everything underneath was soaked, but most of the grass was still there, so it was kind of just the worst of both worlds. Maybe it's better if you use it every single time, so things can't really harden up. But I was pretty skeptical.

I've heard similar things from other people. I have never used the wash ports on my tractor, and have no intention of trying them, personally.

Some folks here have talked about brushing on motor oil (sometimes used) as a deck protectant. But I think that's maybe more helpful for off-season storage, and I'm guessing you don't have much of an off-season, if it's usually around 80.

I can't believe your plant-growing abilities are that elevation sensitive! Whew, that must be quite a place.
 
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@RedOctobyr I agree, unless you leave clumps of grass attached to the deck, the decks tend to last well around here.

The trick with snowblowers is to do the salted bits first, then the rest of the driveway. The clean snow will help to get rid of the salt. It's not foolproof, of course...

Mike
 

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I just used oil-based black paint from tractor supply
We have a TSC here on Island! I'll be looking for it next time I make it into town.

Unless the paint used on autos sold in Hawaii is better...
Yeah, I thought as much myself, I was talking about the tractor paint, rather than the deck paint, but either way the weak point is the paint.
Wow, SuperK, that is wild! That is pretty brutal humidity!! And to also have that year-round...
I can't believe your plant-growing abilities are that elevation sensitive! Whew, that must be quite a place.
It is very sensitive, and for the plants that are usually so forgiving. Corn, beans and tomatoes, are all low elevation crops with some varieties thriving at higher places. Though we have a lot of root rot due to high moisture levels in the soils. If carefully tended, onions can grow here, but garlic is a no grow crop here. I have to fertilize every month due to the rain. It washes nutrients out almost as fast as I can get them in.
@RedOctobyr
The trick with snowblowers is to do the salted bits first, then the rest of the driveway. The clean snow will help to get rid of the salt. It's not foolproof, of course...
This totally makes sense and is part of working out how best to deal with local conditions. I am working on a project to build a deck wash station that I will be driving over to clean. If it works out, I will post the project build.
 
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