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I break things
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486 Posts
Time for a new seat. The original one had so many cracks there was no saving it. Took a little over a month to get the seat through Amazon. Oh well. Just about done with the tweaks on the mounting.

Seat teaser...
2503400

Pics to come...
 

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Found a few other items in need of repair...

Drive belt, parking belt lever, two deck wheels, fuel filter (and lines).

Will also want to address the source of the oil or fuel leak that's making a giant mess.

Mike
That's a good idea; writing the oil change date on the filter. Hadn't thought of that for the tractor. I do it for my house air filters...on a piece of blue painters tape affixed to the filter housing.
 

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So, this is part of what I got done yesterday. Shoveled compost from my pile into the scoop, then drove across the yard to start filling up a raised garden. Used my truck ramps made from 2x8s to give me a little more height with the bucket. Got four more scoopfuls in that way--saved me from shoveling it out! Then mowed the yard. Tried to then pull the aerator around, but on the third lap the tranny seemed like it didn't want to pull anymore. So, I pulled the aerator up and parked the tractor. Will look at the fluid and level tomorrow. Hoping it's low on fluid, 'cuz that should be an easy fix. Otherwise, I may look for a K66...
Started on the pavers after the tranny gave out.
And, my dad's sledge makes a good gate holder when the winds are blowing. :)
 

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That's a good idea; writing the oil change date on the filter. Hadn't thought of that for the tractor. I do it for my house air filters...on a piece of blue painters tape affixed to the filter housing.
Learned that trick after seeing some of my truck and RV filters marked that way by the service guys.

You got a LOT of work done there!

I got about 4 hours of seat time with the GS6500 today, which is a LOT more than I thought it would take. Pulled the Brinly dethatcher, then cleaned up with the Trac Vac 380. Ran out of time for aerating, but that was just done in the fall, so I'm not too concerned about that.

No great pics. Managed to lose a chain, no time to deal with that today. Fortunately, no slipping, even climbing the hill towing the dethatcher or Trac Vac.

The grass looks great from a distance, but there's still a lot of weeds.

Mike

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Learned that trick after seeing some of my truck and RV filters marked that way by the service guys.

You got a LOT of work done there!

I got about 4 hours of seat time with the GS6500 today, which is a LOT more than I thought it would take. Pulled the Brinly dethatcher, then cleaned up with the Trac Vac 380. Ran out of time for aerating, but that was just done in the fall, so I'm not too concerned about that.

No great pics. Managed to lose a chain, no time to deal with that today. Fortunately, no slipping, even climbing the hill towing the dethatcher or Trac Vac.

The grass looks great from a distance, but there's still a lot of weeds.

Mike

View attachment 2503885 View attachment 2503886 View attachment 2503887 View attachment 2503888
Yard looks great
 

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Had an exciting ride when the drag link dropped off the steering.
It's a bad feeling when you crank the wheel and front tires go where they want to instead of them going where you want them to.
 

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Been there, done that on a DLT3000. What model did you break?

Mike
 

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917.273090
One end of that fell off 10 years ago and I had ordered a replacement part.
Took forever for it to come and grass was growing, so I made a piece out of a 1/2 inch copper coupler that kept the ball in the rod.
Worked so well I never installed the new part.
And today the other end of the rod came apart, but no fixing that end.
Took 5 searches today, but I found the new part I had ordered back then, so all was not lost.
Now just pull the deck so I can get in there and replace it, right after they turn the rain off.
 

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Minding my P's & Q's
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2,167 Posts
Tuesday cut up a dead branch that fell. Made fire wood.
Unloaded it and stacked it.
Restart tractor. Engine would not run w/o full choke. Made it back to the shop.
Was sure it would be the carb needing cleaning.
Check flow from tank. Was fine.
Checked flow from fuel pump. Was fine.
Checked anti backfire solenoid. No click when key turned to on.
Removed anti backfire solenoid. Took it apart. Cleaned it. Tested with 12V from battery. Clicked. Light sound, but it did click.
Reinstalled and no click when key turned to on.
Wire from solenoid has a bullet connector. Hooked meter to wire from ignition switch going to solenoid. Turn key to on. 8V intermittent. on off. on off.
Removed Ignition switch. Should be solid resistance between B & L terminals when key turn to on. It was flaky Off, on, off, on. Wiggle and jiggle key and it would go off and on. Took it apart. One copper bump was worn way down.
Got a new switch through NAPA. $28.00 Store in town said not be in until June 6. Store 12 miles away said they would have it next day. Guess which way I went?
Picked it up last night and all is well.
 
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GS6500 has been active.

Moved trailers around several times over the past week.

Mowed the lawn this morning. Second mow of the year, was getting pretty tall from all of the rain.

Mike
 

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4,065 Posts
It looks great!

My parents had one very similar, but 18hp (still the cool 6-speed high/low tranny).

It was a while ago, but I remember there being some sort of front PTO output. I thought there was something available there, presumably for running a snowblower or something. Am I remembering correctly, or making that up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,798 ·
I pulled the wheel off the GT6000 yesterday to access the drive pedal dampener. It wasn't slowing down the rate of return-to-neutral like I thought it should have.


I swapped it out (the dirtier one) with another from a Husqvarna parts tractor, but there was no change.


For the heck of it, I removed it completely and did some mowing. Pushing down on the reverse pedal was vastly easier, but the "toss you over the seat backwards if you let off the pedal too fast" was obviously still there.

The design of the dampener works well when pushing it together, but not very well when pulling it apart as it has more of a springy feel and wants to pull back in. I either need to relocate the dampener to reverse the operation, or find a better one that dampens in both directions. For now I left it off for the ease of reverse.
 

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Hawaiian Hobby Farmer
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106 Posts
Finally getting around to mounting a Gorilla Cart to the back fender assembly of my T-1000 mower. The carts I haul are not enough, and I suppose this add on won't be eventually either, but for now I need something to carry more that I don't have to worry about backing up with. With the double pivot of the usual cart trailer tongue set up it makes backing a tractor with cart a bit difficult at times and I wanted something I could put filled buckets into and haul fast.
I'll have more photos soon, but I got tired of balancing buckets and gear on the hood as I trugged stuff around. As my signature says, I have a few garden tractors and this is the one is relegated to mowing and pulling. Standard 42" deck, but once a trailer is on the back its tough to balance buckets and other unwieldy stuff that won't fit in the cart (that is almost always full of manure, mulch or rocks) so I figured a basket of sorts mounted on the tractor would be good. I chose to mount it along the back fender. I welded angle iron for reinforcement, drilled holes and welded 1/2 diameter bolts for attaching the cart to the Gorilla Cart where it met the fender.
IMG_1863.JPG
I then bolted it up temporarily to get the other support braces measured out, cut, and welded in. I am supporting the cart along the front to back bracing with 1" EMT (had on hand) from cart down to the tow plate.
IMG_1865.JPG This is a shot of centering the cart, it is upside down. The plastic tubes are covering their welded mounting bolts that I cut off as I did not need the cart frame that these bolts are used for.
IMG_1866.JPG This is a shot of the holes in the fender and the angle iron reinforcement plate I added. It really stiffened up the fenders and the cart bottom. I them welded bolts through the cart holes and then the angle iron to the cart bottom with the threads exposed ready to drop into the fender holes. I tightened them up then got to setting the bracing from the tow plate up to the cart bottom struts(?).
IMG_1880.JPG Once that angle was determined, I was able to cut the pipes, weld them in place and measure for the horizontal cross member that I welded in.
The sides of the cart were used and fit well except for the back panel that I cut down so the seat could run back( it does impinge in the 'Basket' space, but not much). and now I am to the painting part of the project. I will add more photos of the finished and fully painted Cart Rack/Basket, I just don't have them yet. I did a test run yesterday and it is exactly what I wanted. A few bungees and it will be a well used accessory for me.
 

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Hawaiian Hobby Farmer
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106 Posts
I gave mine it's first bath of the year, and let me tell ya, It was nasty !
But well worth it-
I hope I can get mine looking this good.
I think I have one like this or close. That hood is similar to my 'brush' [not my doing] painted FEL Craftsman. what do you think? The Model and Serial #'s are missing.

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