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I had the same thoughts. The cat litter containers are pretty strong. The downside, to me, would be that they would likely be be too heavy (for my tastes), if filled all the way.

But they'd sure hold a lot of weight, for cheap, and they're rectangular and stackable. Considering how they are often stacked at the store, I expect they can support a lot of weight.

I may check out one of those water containers, to see how thick the handle is. My thought was perhaps the container could be oriented with the spout facing up, as the concrete set. That way the handle itself would also be filled with concrete, which should add some strength at the handle. That doesn't mean that concrete might not still crack, but the concrete and plastic could perhaps help support each other.

I like the idea of cheap, removable weights to allow adjusting your ballast (and if you didn't have to come up with your own forms, that sounds nice). If I can solidly mount a 2" receiver to the back, at my sleeve hitch (or onto its frame), then I could make a weight box that would slip into that.
 

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Loader weight update
I actually made forms out of plywood and cut down 2x4's. I trimmer them to a light 3" after calculating the weight I would get using a 20" x 15" x 3" form using the Concrete calculator I found online. Turns out they fit the weight box perfectly and to Larrybl,
Super K those blocks weigh alot! I would guess 60 - 70 lbs each.
You are correct. These things are each heavier than our 50# chicken feed bags, by at least a third. I would have set them on our scale, but it gave up the ghost a few months back after 10 years of valiant and noncomplaining service.
As the pictures show, they fit like they were made that way. LOL, wait, they were! I have three more to make to fill the box. If 70# each then a total of 350. The loaders lift limit is also 350#
The 4th and fifth photos are of the weight box and how it is mounted on the tractor. Yes, that rust is why this is a project tractor!

I am still working on finding out more on the rear-end for upper weight limits. I may need to trim the box down if it isn't too high.


IMG_0851.JPG IMG_0868.JPG IMG_0875.JPG IMG_0872.JPG IMG_0870.JPG
 

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SuperK, maybe I missed it, but what did you use to make the handles?

Great looking weights, BTW.

Mike
 

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SuperK, maybe I missed it, but what did you use to make the handles?
Great looking weights, BTW.

Mike
Thanks Mike, I actually used a length of 3/4" Electrical PVC with a 1/2" rebar inside it bent and extended into the weight to act as a reinforcement. I didn't get any good pictures of it prior to casting, but I have 3 more to make and I will get them and post. I think I'll have some time tomorrow to do more concrete work.
IMG_0635.JPG IMG_0637 (1).JPG IMG_0638 (1).JPG
 

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Cool, that sounds like a great solution for the handle! Forms are probably the way to go. But I see appeal in just being able to pour the concrete in something inexpensive that can give it the proper shape.

Mike, I stopped by Target tonight, but they were sold out of those water jugs. I'll try and stop at a different store to check them out.

Edit: I know nothing about concrete, but just watched this Home Depot video. The crack-resistant stuff apparently has fibers in it. That's interesting, in terms of things like concrete-filled (or just-concrete) handles.


For molded plastics, embedded fibers (like glass) can make the plastic stiffer, and stronger in tension. If the same is true here, then I wonder if the crack-resistant type might be good for something where it could be in tension. Like a water container that might have a concrete-filled handle.
 

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Cool, that sounds like a great solution for the handle! Forms are probably the way to go. But I see appeal in just being able to pour the concrete in something inexpensive that can give it the proper shape.

Mike, I stopped by Target tonight, but they were sold out of those water jugs. I'll try and stop at a different store to check them out.

Edit: I know nothing about concrete, but just watched this Home Depot video. The crack-resistant stuff apparently has fibers in it. That's interesting, in terms of things like concrete-filled (or just-concrete) handles.


For molded plastics, embedded fibers (like glass) can make the plastic stiffer, and stronger in tension. If the same is true here, then I wonder if the crack-resistant type might be good for something where it could be in tension. Like a water container that might have a concrete-filled handle.
I'll be adding fibers to the next batch. At 15" x 21" x 3" its a bit small to add steel mesh or rebar. We do have a local cement supply company on our side of the Island. I'm sure they can set me up. I made the molds only because the weight box came with the FEL and the Tractor. It was a case of making the weights to fit the box, otherwise I would have done it exactly that way-pour into anti freeze jugs or such then fabricate a box around them.
This image is from the web, Amazon in fact, and is 1 pound of 3/4" fibers and will be enough for a cubic yard of cement. Just looked up how to 'Properly ' calculate the fiber to cement ratio, and whoa. I'll stick to the ratio on the bag.
My weights calculate to be 0.02 cu yds so 454 grams * 0.02 cu yds = 9 gms for the individual weight, but I am mixing a half bag of a 47 pound sack of cement. Not too confusing, right? I figure a healthy handful,1 ounce or 28 gms or so, in the mixer, half sack of cement and I'm good.
Cement fibers.jpg
 

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I had posted in another weights thread, mentioning my idea with the water containers.
What's up with wheel vs suitcase weights?

@Steve Urquell had a good suggestion, to try pavers, or concrete blocks, instead.

I picked up (5) of the 4x8x16 concrete blocks at Lowes, $1.60 each. I weighed one, it's 34 pounds, so they're about $0.05/pound. So for $8, I have 170 pounds available. I may pick up a few more. I don't know how much weight I'll need, but I'm hoping that around 200 pounds is a reasonable place to start.

He also pointed out that you could attach metal handles to them, with Tapcon screws, which would be a nice way to make them easier to load/unload.

I'll have to work on making a box for them.

And SuperK, this isn't remotely meant to take anything away from what you're making! Just wanted to share the cost-effective and easy idea that was proposed. They're cheap, and ready to use, which is nice. Plus I think they'll fit on the weight tray on my aerator, so they could help with that too.
 

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I had posted in another weights thread, mentioning my idea with the water containers.
What's up with wheel vs suitcase weights?

@Steve Urquell had a good suggestion, to try pavers, or concrete blocks, instead.

I picked up (5) of the 4x8x16 concrete blocks at Lowes, $1.60 each. I weighed one, it's 34 pounds, so they're about $0.05/pound. So for $8, I have 170 pounds available. I may pick up a few more. I don't know how much weight I'll need, but I'm hoping that around 200 pounds is a reasonable place to start.

He also pointed out that you could attach metal handles to them, with Tapcon screws, which would be a nice way to make them easier to load/unload.

I'll have to work on making a box for them.

And SuperK, this isn't remotely meant to take anything away from what you're making! Just wanted to share the cost-effective and easy idea that was proposed. They're cheap, and ready to use, which is nice. Plus I think they'll fit on the weight tray on my aerator, so they could help with that too.
That's gotta be the cheapest, most compact weight per dollar available.

Found some HD pull handles for $3/each

 

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Hawaiian Hobby Farmer
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I had posted in another weights thread, mentioning my idea with the water containers.
What's up with wheel vs suitcase weights?

@Steve Urquell had a good suggestion, to try pavers, or concrete blocks, instead.

And SuperK, this isn't remotely meant to take anything away from what you're making! Just wanted to share the cost-effective and easy idea that was proposed. They're cheap, and ready to use, which is nice. Plus I think they'll fit on the weight tray on my aerator, so they could help with that too.
No Worries! Didn't take it that way at all. There are a hundred ways to get a thing done, and it's helpful to hear and see them all. That way I can borrow a technique or style for the next build. And I do like the math breakdowns. Using what we got is the only way things can get done here on the Islands since shipping costs are sky high lately.
Thanks for the input
 
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Here are some pictures in case the video doesn't work.
 

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I tried to get these caps off today. Is there a trick without tearing them up...i couldnt get them using a set of channel locks and screw driver work


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Heat them up a little with a hair drier first. (Don't leave grease all over it when finished.)

I have a narrow flat blade screw driver I bent the end over about a 1/4" to make a little hook.
Hook the back lip of them and pull, move it over a little then pull again.
 

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I use a heel bar. They come off easy when you pull them from the back.
 

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I use a heel bar. They come off easy when you pull them from the back.
Heat gun (for shrink wrap tubing) gloves as it will be HOT. Will slide right off, Don't heat till it smokes, and the same process helps with installation.
 

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I'm not sure what a heel bar is. But if you have an offset flathead screwdriver, depending on the orientation of the flat head, maybe you could use that to lever them off from the back?

Of course, the ones shown in this link have the heads facing the wrong direction.
 

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I'm not sure what a heel bar is. But if you have an offset flathead screwdriver, depending on the orientation of the flat head, maybe you could use that to lever them off from the back?

Of course, the ones shown in this link have the heads facing the wrong direction.
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Looking good, Larry! I love the way you're always finding new ways to use that trailer. I never would have thought to use it as a giant rock screen!

I can't believe that you guys wear sandals when working with tractors and shovels. I'm far too clumsy. I was wearing my safety boots the other day, dropped a piece of firewood, and managed to find where the safety toe part ends, and how little protection there is for the side of your foot...

If you're going to keep using human-powered ballast, maybe you can install some stirrups on your ripper to make it easier for the guy in back to stay aboard!

Mike
 

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I wear sandals almost year round, I did put shoes on to dump the rocks. I will try and figure a weight setup, but we needed to get the trench done. Will be using Hulk II soon to fill the ditch in. BOH will be used to haul off more rocks, and bring in clean dire.

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