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Thanks! I'll give that a shot.

As I was reading your reply, I thought: Hey, I could use my HF inspection camera for this job! Then, I read the manual and all of the warnings against using it near gasoline or flammable liquids...

Mike
 

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Well last night my son and I pulled the flywheel off of one of our tractors to replace the stator. And found all the magnets had come loose from the flywheel. So 4" grinder with wire wheel to clean the flywheel up where the magnets mount, then a little muratic acid to clean it better followed by rinse with water. Brake clean, wipe out and blow dry. JB weld magnets back in place making sure magnet polarity was correct. So today was sand down excess JB Weld and reassemble engine. Then test run engine and check output on the alternator. Everything was peachy.
 

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Wow, was it running with the magnets floating?

Mike
 

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Also all the magnets were stuck to the stator, so no noise while it was running. This was a free to me tractor. About a 95 model GT6000. One front tire, one rear tire, make a new drag link for the steering, replace the battery, replace the stator and re glue the magnets to the flywheel, also had to work on the headlights and replace the deck drive belt. I guess I am in for about 400 or so for a 18 HP garden tractor, not bad in my book. Replace the seat is the only other thing it really needs running an driving wise. A Sherwin Williams overhaul would do wonders for the looks, but considering the price it don't look bad.
 

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Tires, batteries and belts are normal wear items, so I wouldn't even count those costs, if you know what I mean. Better if you don't have to replace them, of course.

BTW, welcome to MTF!

Mike
 

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Guys. We're going to have to have a talk about the love for the gt 18 im working with here. 1 season. 2 cuts. Already have to replace the gear on my starter. I just bought a new starter earlier this year. I'm questioning life decisions and the quality of plastic used to make these dang gears.
 

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I have both a What I Did post and a question for those of you with FELs on your Garden Tractors. First the post.
Well, this is actually a what did I do Today/Yesterday post. I have a GT5000 with a FEL and it's accessory rear weight box. Filled with sand as recommended I get about 75 pounds of counter weight. I have been looking for an alternative for the sand since it is a pain to unload/reload. I made up a couple of wooden reusable forms to cast some modified suitcase type weights in concrete to fit the inner dimensions of the weight box. I divided the space into 5 weights and I cast 2 of them yesterday. I disassembled the forms this morning and they came out okay. It feels like they are in the 40 pound range each, so in total these should add roughly 200 total pounds of counter weight in the same space. One of the handles cracked a bit and I attribute it to the concrete being still to green to de mold. I will be allowing 48 hours for the next set.
Now for the question. I have my model FEL instruction manual and in it and it does say to operate with the weight box full at all times. (A quick test on the first day when I got the tractor and the FEL without the full weight box reinforced that sentiment, I tipped forward with just a few pounds in the bucket.) I could not find an upper limit to the weight on the back.
Anyone have any experience with too much rear weight? Oh, and my version of FEL requires 4 rear tires as well.
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Cut the lawn today, between kids' baseball games in two different towns.

Looks OK after the aeration and overseeding, but still a lot of weeds, and some thin areas.

Mike

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I have both a What I Did post and a question for those of you with FELs on your Garden Tractors. First the post.
Well, this is actually a what did I do Today/Yesterday post. I have a GT5000 with a FEL and it's accessory rear weight box. Filled with sand as recommended I get about 75 pounds of counter weight. I have been looking for an alternative for the sand since it is a pain to unload/reload. I made up a couple of wooden reusable forms to cast some modified suitcase type weights in concrete to fit the inner dimensions of the weight box. I divided the space into 5 weights and I cast 2 of them yesterday. I disassembled the forms this morning and they came out okay. It feels like they are in the 40 pound range each, so in total these should add roughly 200 total pounds of counter weight in the same space. One of the handles cracked a bit and I attribute it to the concrete being still to green to de mold. I will be allowing 48 hours for the next set.
Now for the question. I have my model FEL instruction manual and in it and it does say to operate with the weight box full at all times. (A quick test on the first day when I got the tractor and the FEL without the full weight box reinforced that sentiment, I tipped forward with just a few pounds in the bucket.) I could not find an upper limit to the weight on the back.
Anyone have any experience with too much rear weight? Oh, and my version of FEL requires 4 rear tires as well.
View attachment 2476681 View attachment 2476678 View attachment 2476679 View attachment 2476680 View attachment 2476682
I use a carrier that can hold blocks or coolers.
2476704
 

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I have both a What I Did post and a question for those of you with FELs on your Garden Tractors. First the post.
Well, this is actually a what did I do Today/Yesterday post. I have a GT5000 with a FEL and it's accessory rear weight box. ...
I made up a couple of wooden reusable forms to cast some modified suitcase type weights in concrete to fit the inner dimensions of the weight box. ...
Now for the question. I have my model FEL instruction manual and in it and it does say to operate with the weight box full at all times. (A quick test on the first day when I got the tractor and the FEL without the full weight box reinforced that sentiment, I tipped forward with just a few pounds in the bucket.) I could not find an upper limit to the weight on the back.
Anyone have any experience with too much rear weight? Oh, and my version of FEL requires 4 rear tires as well.
Very cool! That sounds great! Do you have any pictures of it with the FEL? The weight box would be interesting to see too. Why does it need 4 wheels at the back, for traction, as well as weight?

There was a discussion here recently about ballast ideas, including a post (#58) of an example with too much weight off the back. There was also mention of having the ballast too high, making the tractor tippy, and increasing the risk of rolling.

Rear Ballast: 15 gallon drum with concrete?

I like your concrete weights. I'm adding a Swisher bucket to my tractor, and I'm guessing I'll need to add ballast on the back. So I've been thinking about practical, cost-effective options that can be loaded/unloaded reasonably.

I sort of like the idea of filling smaller containers with concrete, like 2-gallon buckets, or something. Little square containers would be ideal, to make better use of space. I wonder if gas cans (cheap used ones) could be an option like that.

larrybl, I did think about using a cooler. Being able to just mount it, fill it with water, and then drain it, would let you add/remove weight, without having to lug it around yourself. Did you make those blocks?
 

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Blocks were from the old mobile home foundation support. I use this set-up to off set the weight of the blower when riding around at the show. and to haul items that I purchased there.
One block was used here as the other side toted the cooler till I picked up a bolens sicle mower.

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. I use this set-up to off set the weight of the blower when riding around at the show.
 

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Now for the question. I have my model FEL instruction manual and in it and it does say to operate with the weight box full at all times. (A quick test on the first day when I got the tractor and the FEL without the full weight box reinforced that sentiment, I tipped forward with just a few pounds in the bucket.) I could not find an upper limit to the weight on the back.
Anyone have any experience with too much rear weight? Oh, and my version of FEL requires 4 rear tires as well.
Two parts to the upper limit:
1. The front tires stop steering with an unloaded bucket, which will be fairly obvious.

2. The transaxle total weight limit, which includes the operator. You'll have to identify which transaxle you have and the manufacturer should have a maximum weight the axle can support.


Today I cut the FIL's yard. This grass looked completely burned and dead less than a month a go, and was almost 6" in some spots before cutting! My wife joined in the fun using the YTS4500 while I drove the FS5500. It was her first time cutting. She was amazed that she collected 3 heaping bags of grass and leaves so quickly. Initially I was thinking we could get the job done twice as fast with two mowers, but I was wrong :D
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Very cool! That sounds great! Do you have any pictures of it with the FEL? The weight box would be interesting to see too. Why does it need 4 wheels at the back, for traction, as well as weight? There was a discussion here recently about ballast ideas, including a post (#58) of an example with too much weight off the back. There was also mention of having the ballast too high, making the tractor tippy, and increasing the risk of rolling.

. I use this set-up to off set the weight of the blower when riding around at the show.
RedOctobyr> I have just poured the first of the 5 weights, and the tractor is still in rehab mode, meaning I haven't used the FEL or the weights or the weight tub yet. The engine does run, Trans is good, but I am not needing it to actually do anything on the farm yet. I wanted to get it 'project finished' first. As for the extra set of wheels I believe that it is to counter any severe tipping moment side to side by extending the width of the footprint as the loader goes up. The loader add on kit actually came with a factory supplied set of wheels and tires. Ballast will ride low, the box is secured to the tractor by the lower hitch and a new fitting set into the tow plate. Ill get a photo for you.

I use a carrier that can hold blocks or coolers.
Larrybl > I love that set up for the weights. How much does one of those blocks weight?

Two parts to the upper limit:
1. The front tires stop steering with an unloaded bucket, which will be fairly obvious.
2. The transaxle total weight limit, which includes the operator. You'll have to identify which transaxle you have and the manufacturer should have a maximum weight the axle can support.
B440> I've done that overweight steering trick to my truck ! Made an interesting ride home from the quarry. I purposefully divided the space to fit 5 of these weights. I can take out one, or more to suit the load anticipated.
And for the transaxle, I will look it up to find the specs thank you.
Thanks to all that responded, it's why I like this forum!
 
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Wish I had a loader so I could be more helpful! But, from what I've read, I agree that the dual rear wheels are intended to avoid rolling the tractor over when using the loader.

Loaders for the old Sears tractors are pretty rare (obviously). But, I've seen very, very few with the dual rear tires installed.

Mike
 

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RedOctobyr> I have just poured the first of the 5 weights, and the tractor is still in rehab mode, meaning I haven't used the FEL or the weights or the weight tub yet. ... Ballast will ride low, the box is secured to the tractor by the lower hitch and a new fitting set into the tow plate. Ill get a photo for you.
Thanks, it would be great to see! And thanks for sharing your weights info, it's always interesting to try and learn from what other people are doing.

I've been giving some thought to simple ways to do concrete weights. Like using 2-gallon plastic buckets, and filling them with concrete. Rather than needing to make forms (which I've never done before). Then I could try and make a platform/box to mount to the sleeve hitch.

A 2-gallon bucket of concrete would be about 40 pounds, so it would still be a reasonable weight to load/unload. Unfortunately, most buckets are round, which makes worse use of space. Trying to think of square plastic containers with handles, in roughly that size, made me think of gas cans. If you could get some old gas cans for free, they could work.

I may keep an eye out for smallish plastic buckets.

We have plastic cat-litter containers, with handles, but I think they'd be way heavier than I'd like. They hold 40 pounds of clay litter, I'd guess they're a bit less than 5 gallons. If they were 4, that's 80 pounds, which is more than I'd like to lug around. They could just be partially-filled, of course, but then that's wasted space.

As I think about it, used 5-quart oil containers (cleaned) could work, they're fairly rectangular, and have handles. I only have 2 in the garage at the moment, for recycling, but it could be something to try. It's funny, buying a product in a container can sometimes be almost cheaper than buying just the container itself :)

Edit: Suddenly thought of water containers. These are interesting, $3 at Target, 2.5 gallons, rectangular, with a handle. That would be about 50 pounds:
Poland Spring Brand 100% Natural Spring Water - 2.5 gal Jug
 
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Making weights from the water jugs would be interesting! I know that the plastic on those is pretty thin, not sure how much abuse they could take.

I too was thinking of the cat litter (square) buckets. I'd think those would hold up better?

Mike
 
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