What carb to use?
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Re: Need help identifying a carburetor
That appears to be a Briggs and Stratton flow jet carb.
They are called large two piece flo jet or small two piece flo jet. The are expensive now days, but kits can be obtained reasonable. (from ebay)
May not even need a kit if you can get the bowl removed without ruining the gasket. Just give the carb a good cleaning.
Look at this link and if you are going to kit the carb take note of the disassembly/assembly instructions. The carb can be easily damaged if the procedures are not followed in steps. Hint a jet tube has to be removed before the bowl can be removed. (and they have to go back together in a step sequence. (for the jets) I've re-built them with good results.
Start at the top of this link page a scroll down looking at the pictures to get in the ball park and to ID you carb.
Those carbs were quite common on the older Horiz shaft Briggs 3.5hp and up. the large flo jet was for the larger engines at about 8 hp and up.
Small Engine, Lawn Mower, Snowthrower Troubleshooting, Repairs and Safety
That appears to be a Briggs and Stratton flow jet carb.
They are called large two piece flo jet or small two piece flo jet. The are expensive now days, but kits can be obtained reasonable. (from ebay)
May not even need a kit if you can get the bowl removed without ruining the gasket. Just give the carb a good cleaning.
Look at this link and if you are going to kit the carb take note of the disassembly/assembly instructions. The carb can be easily damaged if the procedures are not followed in steps. Hint a jet tube has to be removed before the bowl can be removed. (and they have to go back together in a step sequence. (for the jets) I've re-built them with good results.
Start at the top of this link page a scroll down looking at the pictures to get in the ball park and to ID you carb.
Those carbs were quite common on the older Horiz shaft Briggs 3.5hp and up. the large flo jet was for the larger engines at about 8 hp and up.
Small Engine, Lawn Mower, Snowthrower Troubleshooting, Repairs and Safety
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Re: Need help identifying a carburetor
Briggs also put out a service bulletin on those Flo-Jet carbs regarding the addition of a teflon gasket under that jet just mentioned,which helps prevent fuel from drooling out of the air intake ..
I had the PDF saved on my old computer,but the hard drive it has,I have not tried removing and extracting a lot of things like that on it I want to keep..
Briggs also put out a service bulletin on those Flo-Jet carbs regarding the addition of a teflon gasket under that jet just mentioned,which helps prevent fuel from drooling out of the air intake ..
I had the PDF saved on my old computer,but the hard drive it has,I have not tried removing and extracting a lot of things like that on it I want to keep..
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Thanks. That may help. The tractor would originally have had 7.25hp. Is it possible that I'm dealing with the original carb for the tractor?
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Re: Need help identifying a carburetor
You can get a clone flo jet carb from flea bay for around $20, but your air breather would not fit.
You can look at some pictures of the different flo jets that would bolt onto to your manifold, but air intake is different.
Also the bolt on spacing is different in the large and small flo jet's.
I If you had the old air cowling from the 7.5 HP engine so as to get the ID model info you could then maybe find a carb part number for an exact search, etc. (or look for your engine ID stamped into the metal air cowling on your existing engine. The ID info will be hard to see on an old engine because it was lightly stamped into the metal air cowling and sometimes the cowling has to be removed and use a magnafying glass to read the info.
Once you get a engine ID you can then probably find a low priced clone carb. I've had good luck with the $20 flo jet clone carbs with the adjustable jets. Just a heads up also. The High speed jet adjustment on the carb bowl is sometimes very very critical on those type carbs for good intermittent and high speed engine operation, like less than 1/4 turn for the sweet spot and cold to hot engine operation.
Here is a picture of the main jet nozzle that has to be removed BEFORE attempting to remove the lower bowl to keep from damaging the main jet nozzle. You can read about such at the link I sent you. If the main jet nozzle cannot be removed from the carb you will be SOL for repairing the carb.
Also pay attention to what tractor holic says about the little teflon washer if the carb leaks gas when not running. (and make sure when removing the main jet nozzle that you have a real good fitting HOLLOW GROUND screwdriver blade, like a gunsmith type screwdriver. A regular screwdriver with a taper blade will bend the head on the nozzle and it will bind and won't come out. You can find gunsmith screwdriver kits sometimes at wal mart for less than $20 and are needed if you are going to play with carb kitting.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/398202-Mai...633813&hash=item5b53d7f34d:g:l3UAAOSwrw1cdWp5
Yes.
You can get a clone flo jet carb from flea bay for around $20, but your air breather would not fit.
You can look at some pictures of the different flo jets that would bolt onto to your manifold, but air intake is different.
Also the bolt on spacing is different in the large and small flo jet's.
I If you had the old air cowling from the 7.5 HP engine so as to get the ID model info you could then maybe find a carb part number for an exact search, etc. (or look for your engine ID stamped into the metal air cowling on your existing engine. The ID info will be hard to see on an old engine because it was lightly stamped into the metal air cowling and sometimes the cowling has to be removed and use a magnafying glass to read the info.
Once you get a engine ID you can then probably find a low priced clone carb. I've had good luck with the $20 flo jet clone carbs with the adjustable jets. Just a heads up also. The High speed jet adjustment on the carb bowl is sometimes very very critical on those type carbs for good intermittent and high speed engine operation, like less than 1/4 turn for the sweet spot and cold to hot engine operation.
Here is a picture of the main jet nozzle that has to be removed BEFORE attempting to remove the lower bowl to keep from damaging the main jet nozzle. You can read about such at the link I sent you. If the main jet nozzle cannot be removed from the carb you will be SOL for repairing the carb.
Also pay attention to what tractor holic says about the little teflon washer if the carb leaks gas when not running. (and make sure when removing the main jet nozzle that you have a real good fitting HOLLOW GROUND screwdriver blade, like a gunsmith type screwdriver. A regular screwdriver with a taper blade will bend the head on the nozzle and it will bind and won't come out. You can find gunsmith screwdriver kits sometimes at wal mart for less than $20 and are needed if you are going to play with carb kitting.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/398202-Mai...633813&hash=item5b53d7f34d:g:l3UAAOSwrw1cdWp5
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It's in a 63 Sears Suburban 725 with a David Bradley walk behind hood. The original carb was designed to sit on top of the tank. That wont work because of the hood. Can anybody give me a link for a carb that will work with the remote tank? The last picture is of the carb that was on it. Unfortunately, it is beyond rebuilding and I'm not sure what it is.
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Carbhub Carburetor for Briggs & Stratton 390323 394228 398170 7HP 8HP 9HP Horizontal Engines Troybilt Carb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079NX1DXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qczOCbASRBG4R
Do you think this one would work?
Do you think this one would work?
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I have 2 flow jet carbs,both were unmolested with functioning govenors,Got rebuild kits on amazon,very happy with them.Yours,i would be a little lost if stuff was missing.It might be cheaper and easier to install $99.99 6hp Predator motor .
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I've thought about that but I'd really rather keep a vintage motor in it. I'd love to find one of the bigger Clinton engines.
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I have a few old B&S engines that were similar to what that tractor had factory..
Old model 14 die cast ones,I think the model numbers were 142302--they are about 5-6 HP,and they have flo-jet carbs,but both have air vane govenors though,which they only used one year on those tractors,then switched to engines with mechanical govenors,which respond quicker and better to sudden load changes..
Many old Briggs like yours had flo-jet carbs factory,some did use the pulsa-jet ones with the carb mounted on top of the fuel tank,but most tractors used the float style carbs..
I have swapped flo-jets on engines that had pulsa-jets,you just need the right one,there are "large" and "small" bolt patterns and the venturi is bigger on the large ones..
I "think" 3 to 5 HP engines use the smaller ones and the 6-10 HP ones use the larger version..you can determine what carb came on the engine factory by the model & code numbers..
Going by one of my service manuals that engine was a 5 HP ,originally came with a pulsa-jet carb and it also states it should have an auxillary PTO that runs off the camshaft,for reverse on a roto-tiller or snowblower ,so that is likely what it came off of,and someone swapped the flo-jet carb onto it..
However..
There is also the possibility someone just stuck a complete blower housing off another engine on it when the recoil failed ,that often leads to getting the wrong parts,as those housings fit a lot of different engines..it wasn't the best idea Briggs had,to stamp the numbers on that part for that reason..
Old model 14 die cast ones,I think the model numbers were 142302--they are about 5-6 HP,and they have flo-jet carbs,but both have air vane govenors though,which they only used one year on those tractors,then switched to engines with mechanical govenors,which respond quicker and better to sudden load changes..
Many old Briggs like yours had flo-jet carbs factory,some did use the pulsa-jet ones with the carb mounted on top of the fuel tank,but most tractors used the float style carbs..
I have swapped flo-jets on engines that had pulsa-jets,you just need the right one,there are "large" and "small" bolt patterns and the venturi is bigger on the large ones..
I "think" 3 to 5 HP engines use the smaller ones and the 6-10 HP ones use the larger version..you can determine what carb came on the engine factory by the model & code numbers..
Going by one of my service manuals that engine was a 5 HP ,originally came with a pulsa-jet carb and it also states it should have an auxillary PTO that runs off the camshaft,for reverse on a roto-tiller or snowblower ,so that is likely what it came off of,and someone swapped the flo-jet carb onto it..
However..
There is also the possibility someone just stuck a complete blower housing off another engine on it when the recoil failed ,that often leads to getting the wrong parts,as those housings fit a lot of different engines..it wasn't the best idea Briggs had,to stamp the numbers on that part for that reason..
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Thanks for the info. I'm learning something new here. Although, now I really don't know what I have. There is no auxiliary PTO so I'm really wondering about the possibility that the blower housing has been replaced. I'm going to measure the bolt pattern on the carb to see if I can maybe pick out a new one that way. Beyond that, maybe I should start looking for a different engine.
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Where is your gas tank?
Them Briggs engines with that carb used a gravity flow gas tank mounted on the engine. A good tank is hard to find and expensive.
If you don't have gravity flow gas tank you are going to need a pump to get gas to the carb. (vacuum or electric) and the elec will have to be low pressure in the vicinity of one pound max.
HF 6.5 HP engines at $99 has a low profile tank mounted on the engine. Just be sure you get the correct size crankshaft stub with the engine. Probably the least expensive and least troublesome route. You can make the predator look old easily. (spray it with rusty colored primer) after the warranty is out.
The 390323 carb you asked about will bolt onto a 7, 8, 9 hp Briggs. I've used the clone carbs you asked about on engines when the OEM carb was robbed or gone and had to construct a filter breather and make the mechanical governor and carb linkages using survey flag wire for the wire linkages.. Several of the internals on them old Briggs engines are NLA such as Cams, cranks, etc.
AND
like tractor holic says, Bubba will change (swap) the air cowling on those old engines and you will not be in the ball park after you have bought a part and then see it won't fit. Them old engines do respond good to the $20 Briggs solid state magneto that does away with use of the points and condenser.
I have some of them old Briggs engines in use in the 7-9 hp range that are electric or manual start and have the stator for charging the 12v battery. they were mainly used on snow blowers.
You have to enjoy tinkering to get them old dogs running. If I have not seen one run, I first do a cylinder leak down test to get idea of the condition of the internals so as too see if I'm whipping on a dead or dying horse.
Them Briggs engines with that carb used a gravity flow gas tank mounted on the engine. A good tank is hard to find and expensive.
If you don't have gravity flow gas tank you are going to need a pump to get gas to the carb. (vacuum or electric) and the elec will have to be low pressure in the vicinity of one pound max.
HF 6.5 HP engines at $99 has a low profile tank mounted on the engine. Just be sure you get the correct size crankshaft stub with the engine. Probably the least expensive and least troublesome route. You can make the predator look old easily. (spray it with rusty colored primer) after the warranty is out.
The 390323 carb you asked about will bolt onto a 7, 8, 9 hp Briggs. I've used the clone carbs you asked about on engines when the OEM carb was robbed or gone and had to construct a filter breather and make the mechanical governor and carb linkages using survey flag wire for the wire linkages.. Several of the internals on them old Briggs engines are NLA such as Cams, cranks, etc.
AND
like tractor holic says, Bubba will change (swap) the air cowling on those old engines and you will not be in the ball park after you have bought a part and then see it won't fit. Them old engines do respond good to the $20 Briggs solid state magneto that does away with use of the points and condenser.
I have some of them old Briggs engines in use in the 7-9 hp range that are electric or manual start and have the stator for charging the 12v battery. they were mainly used on snow blowers.
You have to enjoy tinkering to get them old dogs running. If I have not seen one run, I first do a cylinder leak down test to get idea of the condition of the internals so as too see if I'm whipping on a dead or dying horse.
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