[Winger]

I am new to the forum and have searched thru some threads for help... My problem is my case 446 has no spark. I am no mechanic but with some minor knowledge I pulled the points / condenser (they are clean, no burn, good shape). I replaced the coil. I tested continuity in wires and all seem ok. I adjusted starter and cleaned where I could. Turns over great.... no spark. I have cleaned carb, tried "quick start" but without spark... no progress. Is there some contacts on the main ring gear like in a push mower? Can someone assist in sending me to my next task to get the 'ol girl running? Thanks.:banghead3

 

[Caseman2]

I wish I could help you but I have never had a problem with mine, however, don't discount the spark plugs being bad either.

 

[HiPocket]

Are you getting 12 volt input to the coil when switch is on?

 

[Magnum RT]

Are you getting 12 volt input to the coil when switch is on?

This is the first place to check! You must have fire to the coil! If you are getting fire to the coil, it should start and run on at least one cylinder. If so, Then it could be the coil , a bad wire or bad plugs.

All this is assuming it to actually being a fire problem and no a fuel issue.

Do the firing test and get back to us.

 

[Caseguytoo]

:biglaugh: I hate to criticize Rol:bananapow but his choice of "fire" in his post is something that might be misinterpreted. Some of us reserve that term to describe the high voltage spark but I realize that there are differences in some regions of the continent.

If you are certain that you have the points set correctly and that you did replace the condensor and the coil with OEM parts, then you need to use a test light or a simple multi-meter with a DC scale on it to find out if you have 12 volts coming to the positive terminal on that coil with the ignition key in the "ON" position. You also need to make sure that the 12 volts is still there during the cranking cycle with the starter or the engine will not start.

The fuse must be OK because you can get the starter to spin by using the ignition switch. However, it is possible that you have a loose wire, broken wire, damaged wire, corroded wire, a wire off or a bad ignition switch that isn't allowing the 12 volts to get to the coil.

You could also just run a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal directly to the positive coil terminal and then spin the engine. If it starts up, then you know the engine is OK and so are the points, condensor and coil.


Check it out and let us know what you find.

 

[Magnum RT]

:biglaugh: I hate to criticize Rol:bananapow but his choice of "fire" in his post is something that might be misinterpreted. Some of us reserve that term to describe the high voltage spark but I realize that there are differences in some regions of the continent.

If you are certain that you have the points set correctly and that you did replace the condensor and the coil with OEM parts, then you need to use a test light or a simple multi-meter with a DC scale on it to find out if you have 12 volts coming to the positive terminal on that coil with the ignition key in the "ON" position. You also need to make sure that the 12 volts is still there during the cranking cycle with the starter or the engine will not start.

The fuse must be OK because you can get the starter to spin by using the ignition switch. However, it is possible that you have a loose wire, broken wire, damaged wire, corroded wire, a wire off or a bad ignition switch that isn't allowing the 12 volts to get to the coil.

You could also just run a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal directly to the positive coil terminal and then spin the engine. If it starts up, then you know the engine is OK and so are the points, condensor and coil.


Check it out and let us know what you find.

I guess in some parts of the world, having fire to the coil is different from having "spark" or "ignition." I can accept that, as long as even Tom A understood what I meant! LOL

 

[Bart]

As I read your initial post, you have not replaced the points/condenser--condensers are pesky little problems on these engines and you can't tell whether it is good by looking at it. I agree with the previous suggestions on checking for power to the coil but if that is working then I'd replace the points/condenser or whatever else may be keeping you from getting spark. Until you have spark there is no reason to look for fuel related problems.

I find the inexpensive in-line spark testers handy for determining whether you have good spark at the plugs though there are other ways to determine that.

This might also be a good time to consider switching to an electronic ignition using the pointsaver sold by kirkengines.com as it eliminates the condenser entirely and reduces the "wear" on the points so it shouldn't be necessary to replaced them for a very long time if ever.

 

[WNYTractorTinkerer]

Firstly- Welcome to the "head-scratcher" tractor forum! I have gotten much help from reading the many posts in my otherwise dull life! If you have tested for voltage from the engine block to the coil positive (+) terminal and you have a bright test light or 12 volts you are getting correct potential voltage to the coil.. Just for giggles did you try a new spark plug? Another question that comes to mind while i read this thread is what is your point gap- if it is set incorrectly the points will never open and never "excite" or cause your coil to "fire" or spark. This should be set @ .018" I believe at the widest width while you rotate the flywheel.. Just my thoughts.. I used to have a 444 but needed to get rid of it because the thing did wheelies and the kids were going to hurt themselves on it!! (It was kinda like riding a bucking bronco!!) So- after checking all these things- voltage/ point gap / wire continuity and still no spark I'd invest a few bucks in a new coil as they do fail from time to time and you do have an older tractor there.. Just my 20 cents worth.. Good luck!!:thThumbsU