It doesn't really matter where you attach your chain, because you ain't gonna pull large shrubs out with your garden tractor. You don't have the weight or the traction, and it takes both. I tried it with a 2520 compact and it doesn't work either. You can try with a tow strap, get a running start, but you'll only get jerked back, or pull a wheelie, or damage your machine.Brief rundown for those unaware
2011 X540 K72
Deere powered sleeve hitch
I know nothing and am lost without all you guys.
Yep its me again with my daily question. I have x540 and powered sleeve hitch. Here is a good link to the hitch And here is a pic I also have this johnny products multi tounge sleeve hitch adapter. So I wondering where would be the best point to anchor down a chain. I thought about...www.mytractorforum.com
So I posed a question a few months back that I forgot about regarding where to attach a chain to my tractor for pulling out large bushes. First off, a few of these are pretty big like 10ft high so I may not even have the power. I am going to post pics in a new thread of all the ones I want to pull and let you guys debate over whether my baby can handle it.
So again if I cut the the shrub to a foot high, where am I to wrap and attach the chain the shrub? I envision the chain coming up off the shrub and into the back of my head. Trying to get a visualDepends on whether or not you want to save the shrub and transplant it or just yank it out. I cringe when I see pics of guys pulling on ropes and straps, do it if you want, not me, I will be using grade 70 chain. Cut down the size of the shrub unless you want wacked on the head and dig around the base of the shrub to cut the roots. You may be surprised how easily they come out.
Looks like this may be needed. I will keep this in mind, Ill have to look for videos on usage as I have no idea how to operate.Get yourself a farm jack and a short length of chain with hooks. Most farm jacks are rated around 3-4 tons. Harbor Freight has them for $60.
Dig around the root system to insert the chain and lift up.
My wife and I have removed small trees and very large shrubs. We cut the stuff down so only a foot or so remains above ground. Water the area thoroughly and let soak overnight. Next day take the truck and wrap a line around what's being pulled up and done and moving on. We don't mess around.
If you're buying a 'logging' chain its should have a grab hook on one end and a slip hook on the other.
With the slip hook end you should be able to rig up a choker that holds well enough that you're not needing to drill the trunk.
Cut the trunk 3 or 4 feet high, but hook to it lower so that if rigging does start to slip, it's not popping of the top.
You want the tractor end of the rigging to below the centreline of the rear axle -- so the pull cannot flip the tractor over backwards. Perhaps not with GT's, but many have been killed by ignoring this with (small) tractors.
Hook point on the tree/shrub is a trade-off.
The higher on the trunk you can rig, the more mechanical advantage the pull has to break roots/pull the plant out. However, if it's too high, the chain tension can reduce the weight on the rear axle of tractor reducing traction.
Short chain hookup length and chain hooked at the ground will add downforce on tractor, increasing traction and increasing lift on plant -- but loosing the leverage advantage from hooking higher on the plant and loosing the safety factor from being further away from the plant.
In the early '70's dad and I pulled out a huge number of small trees and bushes with a small (30 or 40hp?) 1950's farm tractor. If you have a bunch to do, you'll soon figure out how to get a chain choker to work and the best height/hook-up length combo for the ground conditions, the size of your GT and the size/type of plants being pulled.
Hydraulics are your friend. I've done some cleanup in the yard and in fence rows over the years with a Case TLB, and have done areas measured in acres with a JD 25 ton excavator.
If I had many to do I'd be renting/borrowing a backhoe or mini-excavator. Faster and safer.
If only a few to pull and if in tight quarters a come-along is maybe another suggestion along with the jack-all-jack one.
Obviously, it makes a difference if you clearing overgrown stuff out from beside the house to prepare for new landscaping vs clearing a spot at the edge of a wooded area to build a shop or make a garden.
the rebar is a great idea as well. thanks for tip, may try this out.Cut them down to 18"s. As shown above a #70 chain drill a hole in the shrub and put a piece of rebar through it about 6"s above the ground wrap the chain around the shrub under the rebar, use an old ax and cut as many of the roots as you can, run the chain over a steel rim and hook it to the hitch on the tractor. There are going to make you work for it for sure. I just did this last year at work with my Dodge diesel on blacktop and wow they made me work to get them out!
Yea i was going to buy some straps form TSC but cant figure out what I'll use them for? Seems great if theres a hook on both ends of what you're pulling...but i cant tie the other end to a log or something..Make sense? Need visual.Two types of hooks for chains. One is narrow that is designed to catch the individual link on the chain and not move from there. The other looks like a 'C', usually with a retaining clip on the open end that allows the chain to slip though.
I use the ⅜ inch chain from HF for all my needs around the property pulling small stumps with the farm jack, dragging logs and have used it to tow vehicles. Also have a bunch of nylon tow straps that come in handy for odd things.
Imho, you want one that has one 'grab hook' nd one 'slide' hook. Transport chains typically have 2 grab hooks.So Im seriously considering this chain:
What do you guys think about 1/4 vs 3/8? 3/8 about twice the weight rating correct?