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What are some things that would cause oil to puke into the air cleaner on a ‘94 JD 445

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The engine has low compression on one cylinder and engine was said to be puking oil into the air cleaner. Wondering what are some things that would cause this?
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The general reason is the engine needs a rebuild. The low compression in one cylinder basically confirms it.

My X534 was doing it when I got it and I was really worried. But, the leak down test indicated a near new engine. Turns out the leak down test was accurate. The problem was the breather valve and filter. There was an upgrade kit that fixed it, but did require removing the flywheel.

I have not heard your model engine having a similar issue and the low compression on one cylinder pretty much indicates it needs a rebuild.
90% of the time or at least some other high percentage number of the time when you're talking about standard lawn tractors and riding mowers, this is not the case and the engines do not need a rebuild..
The vast majority of the time especially when one cylinder is weak, smoking, falling out the plug, etc, you will find that there is another problem like normally a blown head gasket or maybe the oil has been thinned out from massive fuel migration and dilution.
It's just that the average homeowner will never actually wear out an engine even if they neglect them and only change the oil a few times and it's entire life or 12 to 15 plus years.
All too often a piece of equipment is scrapped, giving away, or some other way put out to pasture and an engine deems worn out or blown up when in reality it just needs a simple repair.
This repair is often a head gasket, valve train repair, or a repair on a popped valve seat or slipped valve guide... Which by the way should never or at least almost never require a head replacement.
Only rarely and I do mean quite rarely does a cylinder need rings or anything beyond what I have already mentioned.
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I cleaned the engine today and pulled the valve covers to measure the lifter gaps. All were slightly over .010.

So next I put some air pressure to each cylinder. I could hear it leaking past the rings a tad.

Finished pulling it apart and looked for scoring. Cross hatch marks are pretty much worn down. I am hoping I'll be able to hone and put new pistons and rings on it. If needed. Pistons do show some wear.

I still need to get some plastic gauge to measure the rod journals. Crank looks kind of abused too.

Not sure what the outcome will be atm. I'm hoping Toby's comments are true in this case. Keeping my fingers crossed.

The bolts on the rods were pretty darn tight too.

This vid shows a removed head on the side that had low compression.

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The vast majority of the time especially when one cylinder is weak, smoking, falling out the plug, etc, you will find that there is another problem like normally a blown head gasket or maybe the oil has been thinned out from massive fuel migration and dilution.
I guess it depends on your definition of "rebuild". I considered changing the head gasket as almost half of a rebuild and if you are going to go that far it might be advisable to do the whole thing. Since adjusting the valves is too complicated for most people (the ones who never visit a place like this) and changing the oil is a challenge, replacing a head gasket is in the same ball park as a rebuild and just not economically worth it.

In this instance a rebuild of some sort is warranted. Maybe it is just the top end, but sounds like doing the bottom end is likely a good idea, since there is wear there. But, yeah the leak down test help you understand what is leaking and how badly.
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I guess it depends on your definition of "rebuild". I considered changing the head gasket as almost half of a rebuild and if you are going to go that far it might be advisable to do the whole thing. Since adjusting the valves is too complicated for most people (the ones who never visit a place like this) and changing the oil is a challenge, replacing a head gasket is in the same ball park as a rebuild and just not economically worth it.

In this instance a rebuild of some sort is warranted. Maybe it is just the top end, but sounds like doing the bottom end is likely a good idea, since there is wear there. But, yeah the leak down test help you understand what is leaking and how badly.
There are pretty well established parameters for what a rebuild is. Then there's "freshening up".
Freshening up usually consists of basic rebuild with rings and honing the cylinders. Some would include a valve job or at least lap them (a lot).
A rebuild could be more extensive maybe boring cyls (if possible) and oversized pistons and rings, valve job etc.

A head gasket replacement is certainly never considered anything close to a rebuild.
That's a 35-45 min job on a typical riding mower.
Note that this JD 445 mentioned is a sweater cooled Kawasaki which isn't too different but not your common rider or zero turn.
These usually have single OHV Briggs (head gasket blowers!) or Kohler command (older), Courage (newer) 7000 series, Kawi twin air cooled, Toro - MTD - or some other Loncin Chinese air cooled engine.
A simple head gasket IS r reason many mowers are replaced but they don't need a rebuild and they were not worn out or at end of like. They just need a repair.
Problem is the industry wants to charge you 300-400 to do this repair that the gasket used to literally be 6.48 retail price!!
You do have to change the oil and filter too (or you should) so there's that....
Then the cost of one shop towel and maybe 3 paper towels and 4 oz of brake or carb cleaner.
Like I said, I do them in 35 mins so HARDLY worth the price they charge as it's all labor.
But when the repair is 300-400 they just replace it.
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The engine has low compression on one cylinder and engine was said to be puking oil into the air cleaner. Wondering what are some things that would cause this?
Do you happen to know if it's leaking gas into the motor possibly the carb is dumping fuel into the crankcase? Check the oil level and see if it smells like gas. Or you overfilled it with oil possibly? I'd start with smelling the oil first for a gas before I did anything
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The engine has low compression on one cylinder and engine was said to be puking oil into the air cleaner. Wondering what are some things that would cause this?
I had a jd 420 that the carb had issue
Do you happen to know if it's leaking gas into the motor possibly the carb is dumping fuel into the crankcase? Check the oil level and see if it smells like gas. Or you overfilled it with oil possibly? I'd start with smelling the oil first for a gas before I did anything
It had a normal smell to it but was black and gritty. I was just shopping cL for a 20 gal parts washer before I head down to get a new one at harbor freight. New they are about $140+tax.

The engine was not running and out of the tractor w/o the air filter housing left on the ground outside in the rain :/. I checked the oil again today prior to draining it so that I could crack open the crankcase with out having oil dump all over the place. Then I still got some oil on the tool box lid mounted to the trailer. I quickly learned having an oil drain pan would come in handy in that situation. Anyway the oil was a little above the low mark.
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N2, make sure to check out the reed valve/crankcase ventilation system on this. It is a known source of oil puking into the air filter housing on FD620ds.
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N2, make sure to check out the reed valve/crankcase ventilation system on this. It is a known source of oil puking into the air filter housing on FD620ds.
One weird thing I've encountered a couple times over the years although not on this particular engine, is to make sure the dipstick tube is not leaking at the bottom or even leaking air at the top for that matter and that you don't have any other small leaks or seepages.
I once had a bottom dipstick tube o-ring that wasn't really leaking a lot of oil or anything noticeable but it was not sealed air tight like it should have been and this somehow caused a problem or a pressure differential issue inside of the crankcase and the breather was prevented from doing its job and it was puking oil out of the breather tube into the air cleaner assembly.
I thought for sure I would find one of the other common problems like gas in the oil, overfilled oil, a blown head gasket on one of the cylinders or even a bad breather or something holding the breather slightly open but as soon as I replaced the o-ring the problem went away.
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There are pretty well established parameters for what a rebuild is. Then there's "freshening up".
Care to share where that is documented?

When I search the normal places "regular people", ie not mechanics, go, they don't know the difference between a valve cover gasket, a head gasket and a complete engine rebuild. It is all a foreign language and they depend on what the mechanic says, which is usually it is going to cost a lot of money. My use of the term rebuild was, it is time to tear into the engine to see what needs to be replaced and/or freshened up. Sorry if it confused you, since that is not what the word I used means to you.
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I cleaned the engine today and pulled the valve covers to measure the lifter gaps. All were slightly over .010.

So next I put some air pressure to each cylinder. I could hear it leaking past the rings a tad.

Finished pulling it apart and looked for scoring. Cross hatch marks are pretty much worn down. I am hoping I'll be able to hone and put new pistons and rings on it. If needed. Pistons do show some wear.

I still need to get some plastic gauge to measure the rod journals. Crank looks kind of abused too.

Not sure what the outcome will be atm. I'm hoping Toby's comments are true in this case. Keeping my fingers crossed.

The bolts on the rods were pretty darn tight too.

This vid shows a removed head on the side that had low compression.
That's a crazy amount of slop on that piston and looks like it was fit wrong when they went oversize.

Nomura makes oversize pistons for that engine as well. Else, you are likely shopping on ebay for a replacement block or looking at a repower.

Curiours to see the other cylinder.
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Wow. In post #8 you stated that the engine was rebuilt "shortly" before the problems arose. The pictures in post #34 tell a different story with what appears to be a couple of thousand hours of debris buildup behind the flywheel. I can't see the date on the invoices for the engine work but those pictures don't match a recent rebuild.
Ditto, at this point I would assume the engine rebuild paperwork has outlived its usefulness. The engine has enough hours on it that I wouldn’t consider it anything other than a used non-running engine. Based on my experience with these machines, the build up behind the flywheel indicates several hundred, if not over 1,000 hrs of use or a complete lack of maintenance from the PO.
Well with in a 100 to 200 hour window from rebuild. I’ll have to look at the date on the rebuild ticket, no hour meter was recorded as engine was not in tractor. Then in 2018 shortly after the rebuild when it had 7xx hours it went back for problems and valves needed to be adjusted. So imo it’s not likely the owner put over a 100 hours in a year or so just mowing and tilling his small property. Possible but imo not likely. The tractor atm has less than 900 hours. So I’m assuming it only has a couple hundred hours on the rebuild. Have yet to hook up a battery and see if the hour meter is actually working. The previous owner stated the hour meter works. With the hours recorded on the last couple or service tickets leads me to believe the meter was at least working at the time of the fire when the tractor became disabled
A fire, that’s not good! Where was the fire at? What parts were damaged? A fire on these machines can easily lead to the replacement of more than the wiring harness (saw mention of that earlier). Sensors, the injector, modules and the list goes on. Even used you can rack up $1000’s of dollars in parts. Do you have a radiator? I haven’t seen one in the pictures or videos (but I might have missed it). I’d recommend making a list of missing or clearly damaged parts and start a cost analysis. The 3 pt, 450 tiller, and rear PTO (don’t forget the module) are huge items…. But they can also be removed and saved for another 425/445/455
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Care to share where that is documented?

When I search the normal places "regular people", ie not mechanics, go, they don't know the difference between a valve cover gasket, a head gasket and a complete engine rebuild. It is all a foreign language and they depend on what the mechanic says, which is usually it is going to cost a lot of money. My use of the term rebuild was, it is time to tear into the engine to see what needs to be replaced and/or freshened up. Sorry if it confused you, since that is not what the word I used means to you.
I was not trying to be mean or condescending about it so sorry if the written words came out that way.
Unfortunately, most common place normal people search for anything is going to be Google or a search engine which searches the internet and those sources seem to know very little overall about anything mechanical.
You have to then click on some of those results to find actual good accurate information and all of them are not created equal.
It's pretty well established though among anyone with mechanical ability with automobiles or small engines or anyone who is just tinkered with their own engines and stuff over the years that a rebuild is quite different than just digging into one to see what it may need.
That's kind of like comparing exploratory surgery for something they have no idea what's going on versus a laparoscopic appendectomy.
One is very invasive with no known actual problems and they will have to make up their plan as they go along based on what they discover and the other is a set established, simple procedure.
That's what replacing a head gasket is on many / most lawn mowers.
Think back to the traditional Briggs and Tecumseh Flathead engines or L head engines like Briggs calls them.
It was fairly uncommon to have one of these head gaskets blow but it does happen and I've had to do at least a couple of them and the past two or three years but that's compared to dozens of the overhead valve ones.
These old engines would often have the head removed just to clean off the carbon etc which is really a waste of time but even if people weren't in there just looking around you did have to remove the head to get to the valves and valve seats and it was common procedure to use a new gasket when you put it back together but you actually didn't always have to.
There's no push rods or anything there it's just a simple eight bolts or so and it's a part and back together.
Something like that is not quite a foreign language to everyone.
I will admit it's getting more so to a higher percentage of the population but for many decades people have done smaller mechanical repairs and stuff on their cars and even mowers.
Many people did their brake pads and rotors when it was needed and they would do alternators and starter replacement and replace the serpentine belt and mini would also replace spark plugs and wires or spark plugs and the individual coil boots or coils etc.
Now, the majority of car owners can't even or won't, change a tire or remove and replace their battery and many of them don't even know how to check their oil because cars don't use oil as much as they used to and people have been trained to get the oil changed much more frequently so typically by the time they're pulling into the oil change place it's not been that long so the oil isn't low enough to matter.
So I guess it all depends for you are grabbing your sample of people.
If you're getting them from a bank or an IT support firm you're probably going to have a lot fewer I have any knowledge or experience with small engines or car repairs then if you were pulling these people from a smaller more rural town, Golden Corral buffet or Walmart or let's go for the Kings Ransom and walk into your local auto parts store. Lol
Also, many people like to make the distinction between rebuild and remanufacture and I don't really care so much about that until you start talking about purchasing parts that have had this done to them.
Remanufacturing usually means and should require much more attention to detail and checking of all things and replacing any parts that aren't perfectly within specs etc and this usually cost more whereas a rebuilt part just basically means whatever bad thing was broken in it has been replaced and it's been checked out and now it works so in many instances it's more like repaired or basically repaired or repaired plus a little extra like the comedy worn out bushings and stuff but it's certainly not 100% rebuilt and typically not as good as something that's remanufactured.
But there's really no guarantees with any of that.
When you're talking about engines and cars though, there are traditional and accepted meanings to the expressions it's just that people that aren't very knowledgeable about it often use the wrong terms so it's really their fault.
Someone has to have a repair done on their car like let's say a common timing chain repair.
With this they would probably just you say it's a repair and have the timing chain done but if it's an interference engine that been some valves and the head has to come off and go to the machine shop or get swapped out with a remanufactured head...they often, and incorrectly, refer to this as having their engine rebuilt because it will say something like my engine blew or my engine went out and I had to have it rebuilt.
That's certainly not the case. One could argue they had the top half done or the top half rebuilt but that's kind of some old school terminology on the bottom of top half that goes along with the old argument which was also pretty incorrect that if you just do the top it will cause the bottom to go out soon or if you just do the bottom it will cause the top to need to be done.
All that was mostly a bunch of crap pushed by greedy mechanics or shops who just wanted to get the larger repair bill for the complete rebuild or swapping it with reman engine because lots of times it's far simpler to take that whole component or whole rebuild approach than it is to do just the lesser thing that actually needs to be done because the top half is almost always just done in the vehicle and not with the engine out.
Another basic fairly accurate rule of thumb is you can never rebuild an engine without removing it from the vehicle.
This is because a rebuild as far too extensive and you must remove the entire engine fully disassemble it hot tank it clean it check everything replace the damage parts and then replace all of the wear items with new.
You just can't do this in the car conveniently or cost-effectively today.
They used to on the old cars though commonly throughout the 40s and 50s. You could in theory do a fairly complete rebuild on some cars in the chassis today but it's just not cost-effective and it's also not nearly complete like a fully rebuilt or remanufactured engine because at best you only hit like a maybe 90% or a little bit better versus the 100% or very close to that you could hit by having the engine out.
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Care to share where that is documented?

When I search the normal places "regular people", ie not mechanics, go, they don't know the difference between a valve cover gasket, a head gasket and a complete engine rebuild. It is all a foreign language and they depend on what the mechanic says, which is usually it is going to cost a lot of money. My use of the term rebuild was, it is time to tear into the engine to see what needs to be replaced and/or freshened up. Sorry if it confused you, since that is not what the word I used means to you.
Seems to me that many regular people that have a problem with a machine end up in a forum like this as this is one of the most popular ones and it seems that the vast majority of people in here posting and even visiting do have a decent level or at least a minimal level of mechanical ability and knowledge.
Most of them are quite capable of doing many of these repairs. Somebody need a little guidance on the exact particulars or the best procedure to do it but many come to a group like this and then decide to tackle it with help from others and what they've learned.
That's a great thing in my opinion and part of the reason many of us are here.
Too many people today have no desire to do anything themselves. Seems to be about three common reasons or so for this but they won't even take the one nut off their drive wheels on their self-propelled lawn mower and slide the old wheel off and slide a new replacement wheel on and put the nut back on.
I'm sure some people would find a way to mess that up too but for most people that is far from rocket science or in-depth mechanic work but yet it's either out of their comfort zone or this reason or another reason etc and they simply don't or won't do it.
They will buy another mower or take the mower in for service and pay someone else to do something they could easily and quickly do themselves.
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N2, make sure to check out the reed valve/crankcase ventilation system on this. It is a known source of oil puking into the air filter housing on FD620ds.
Thank you Steve, I picked up a couple tips and asked a couple questions in that thread. :)

One weird thing I've encountered a couple times over the years although not on this particular engine, is to make sure the dipstick tube is not leaking at the bottom or even leaking air at the top for that matter and that you don't have any other small leaks or seepages.
I once had a bottom dipstick tube o-ring that wasn't really leaking a lot of oil or anything noticeable but it was not sealed air tight like it should have been and this somehow caused a problem or a pressure differential issue inside of the crankcase and the breather was prevented from doing its job and it was puking oil out of the breather tube into the air cleaner assembly.
I thought for sure I would find one of the other common problems like gas in the oil, overfilled oil, a blown head gasket on one of the cylinders or even a bad breather or something holding the breather slightly open but as soon as I replaced the o-ring the problem went away.
Funny you mention all this and iirc it was mentioned in the thread Steve links as well along with a pdf for making a u shape manometer :)

The previous owner had an issue with spitting oil in the air filter and he was missing the oil dipstick. This was one of the reasons it was serviced again after being rebuilt. It was listed on the service notice. Replaced dipstick. Unfortunately there were many things done wrong with this tractor but then again this is why I ended up getting a good package deal on it :) :)


That's a crazy amount of slop on that piston and looks like it was fit wrong when they went oversize.

Nomura makes oversize pistons for that engine as well. Else, you are likely shopping on ebay for a replacement block or looking at a repower.

Curiours to see the other cylinder.
Yes almost make we want to get an accurate measurement to see if it was overboard more than it should have been.

Anyone else know if that looks like excessive or normal play in the piston seen in the last video I posted.


Ditto, at this point I would assume the engine rebuild paperwork has outlived its usefulness. The engine has enough hours on it that I wouldn’t consider it anything other than a used non-running engine. Based on my experience with these machines, the build up behind the flywheel indicates several hundred, if not over 1,000 hrs of use or a complete lack of maintenance from the PO.
A fire, that’s not good! Where was the fire at? What parts were damaged? A fire on these machines can easily lead to the replacement of more than the wiring harness (saw mention of that earlier). Sensors, the injector, modules and the list goes on. Even used you can rack up $1000’s of dollars in parts. Do you have a radiator? I haven’t seen one in the pictures or videos (but I might have missed it). I’d recommend making a list of missing or clearly damaged parts and start a cost analysis. The 3 pt, 450 tiller, and rear PTO (don’t forget the module) are huge items…. But they can also be removed and saved for another 425/445/455
My theory on the build up of grime is the PO had all kinds of oil leaks and had a lot of loose sandy loamy soil “I wish I had his soil for gardening Turlock CA” and this is one of the reasons for that build up with just a couple of hundred hours after a rebuild.

I rarely if ever ever see 4x5 tractors listed for sale near me but then again my searches have tapered off quite a bit over the last few years. So finding another one might not be in the cards. I’ll just deal with what I have for now. I saw in one of your videos where you mentioned the F935 has the same engine as a 455. I’m wondering if an engine out of an F935 would make for a good transplant w/o any overheating issues from having a smaller sized radiator etc.

It came with newish radiator and hoses seen in one of the videos. Think it was in the second to last video linked in this thread. I know it can be agonizing at times to watch some one ramble on about their tractors on video. :p

The wiring on top of the engine was not effected by the fire. I think the only wire possibly effected by the fire would be the right side coil wire.

The PO mentioned how he had to spend a lot of money replacing the injection icu at some point.

The fire was said to have started from a tube he had going from the air cleaner/carburetor routed down to a can for catching the oil to recycle it back into the engine. This is my suspicion as to how all the grit got into the oil. This overflow tube was routed near the exhaust and was said to be the cause of the fire. The front right headlight and grill got char broiled a bit as well as the top of the right and left side covers and the top of the pedestal towards the gauges. Then the top radiator hose was deformed a bit near the T-stat. I think the biggest issue with the wiring was how it was frayed and not repaired when needed. These frayed wires is what leads me to have a suspicion as to why it initially needed a new injection icu. I’m hoping it does not need another.
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Yes almost make we want to get an accurate measurement to see if it was overboard more than it should have been.
You really need to get an accurate measurement of the pistons and bores as the one in the video is not properly fitted.
I need a new block.
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Service limits per manual and quick measurements with digital caliper. I’ll use snap bore gauges tomorrow to get more accurate readings.

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