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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How long should I wait after painting, before I wet sand (1200-2000 grit) or hand glaze/polish.

I painted the hood and fender sections of my 214 with a rattle can yesterday. It turned out fairly well, but with a little drift here and there it is a little hazy in spots.

I know after getting new car paint a person should wait a month or so before waxing, but I forgot how long paint has to cure before wet sanding... maybe not at all.

Also, is it ever too late to do it... can I wait a month if I don't get back to it right away?

Thanks.
 

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Depends on the paint. Some rattle can paints never get hard enough. Most however, can be buffed in 2-4 weeks, depending on the temp. I wouldn't use a paper any coarser than 600, preferably 800-1000. Water with a little soap, just a drop or two in a gallon will help with paper clogging.
 

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deerhed
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I waited about a week and then used a new Rubbing Compound that Maguires recently cam out with called ULTIMATE COMPOUND.... really did the paint job justice!

 

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painted properly it does not need any wet sanding.

got to keep moving in one direction and never go over and old spot after 15 seconds or you get overspary (that is the dull paint)

you really have to plan the direction of painting properly so you can end on a small surface and prevent oversrpay, in parts where this is impossible I use a carbboard shield to block overspray, works well.

If everything is still taped-off, shoot it again...


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ummm,i wouldn't wet sand spray paint(in a can)its already much thinner than if u used a gun and burning through the paint quickly is almost a given with a buffer and u will never buff out 6-800 grit on a can paint thats insane,even if u used a paint gun u should use 2,000 grit no coarser and if u sand now with what u got by hand all i can say is good luck,i've been in auto body and paint for 25 years been there done that!!
 

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I waited about a week and then used a new Rubbing Compound that Maguires recently cam out with called ULTIMATE COMPOUND.... really did the paint job justice!

gotta get that!!I have been using ( finishing up the bottle) Maguires #7 which does okay but I am always on the look out for something new.
To answer the question I was able to use the #7 on Rusty's hood after 2-3 weeks and sun baking for 3 90 + days. but no wax or sealer for a few more weeks.
No way would I use a power buffer !!!!!!!!!:Stop:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all of the advice... I have used 2000 grit on an outboard shroud (1961 Johnson 75Hp) after painting with a spray bomb, and it worked well... then used hand glaze.

But I will take this slow and see how it goes. I was so excited that I was getting at painting, after things sat for two months, and was trying to get it done outside with the good temps and no wind, I probably should have taken a breath and thought through my spray plan a little better. The areas I hit directly and flowed it well, look nice and glossy.

Thanks again for the advice, including the tip on Meguiars.
 

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Thanks for all of the advice... I have used 2000 grit on an outboard shroud (1961 Johnson 75Hp) after painting with a spray bomb, and it worked well... then used hand glaze.

But I will take this slow and see how it goes. I was so excited that I was getting at painting, after things sat for two months, and was trying to get it done outside with the good temps and no wind, I probably should have taken a breath and thought through my spray plan a little better. The areas I hit directly and flowed it well, look nice and glossy.

Thanks again for the advice, including the tip on Meguiars.
I would go along with the idea that you cant wetsand spray can paint very well. Paint that has had a catalyst, or hardener in it will buff/polish much better!
 

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I am at the point where I should start thinking about polishing the paint job. I have 2 coats of paint on all the green parts, now all I have to do is wait to compound it out. I like Meguiars products and I have been using them on our cars for quite a while. I am not too thrilled with the way the paint dried. It seems to be a little rough, not smooth at all. Will the Ultimate Compound smooth thie paint a bit or do I need something stronger?
I really want to avoid wet sanding if I can.
 

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Im in the same position as you. I rattle canned my 332 and for the most part it looks really good. Im afraid if I wet sand it and try to polish it out it will not look as shiny as it does now. I really want a slick glossy finish but maybe Im asking too much of spray paint. I will be following to see more responses.
 

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ssilver07, if it were earlier in the year I might try wetsanding. Up here in NJ we are running out of warm dry weather.I am out of time to experiment. If I screw things up now I will probably have to wait till next year to repaint. I will try the compound, if it doesn't work I'll just live with it till next year, take it apart again and start over with the painting.
 

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Everyone by now has seen the pics of Rusty just a little Meguires #7 and some ICE and Rusty is done, till I get the new compound maybe.

 

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This is after about 5 min, from a JD rattle can Note: duller area where decal goes.

 

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In a pinch I've used tooth paste and the back side of 400 sand paper or just your thumb. Worked okay. Just run it between your fingers to be sure there's no lumps before you spread it on the paperbacking. Wouldn't recommend using it for a large area though. Let's me get in nice and tight in corners.
 

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John Deere 445
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I'm surprised more of you rattle-can guys don't just bite the bullet and buy a decent spray gun (assuming all of the serious restorers already own a compressor, right?).

The product unit cost would be cheaper, and the overall quality would be considerably better, IMHO.
 

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deerhed
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I'm surprised more of you rattle-can guys don't just bite the bullet and buy a decent spray gun (assuming all of the serious restorers already own a compressor, right?).

The product unit cost would be cheaper, and the overall quality would be considerably better, IMHO.
Been thinking about that actually!

Per Compounds: The Maguires I posted is great stuff....highly recommend it...after a couple weeks dry time. 3M makes AWESOME compound finishing products, but if you go that route make sure you bring a $100 bill to the store!
 

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Just srayed some of my 420 parts yeserday,I use harderned in my paint,had some "runs" and decided today to try sanding them out,got some water and soap and surprised myself ,the run's sanded out on the second day after painted.I don't usally get runs but for some reason I got them on this one.
 

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I've been the rattle can route before on my motorcycles. It looked really good... till I dribbled a little gas on it one time at the pumps. BIG mistake. Finally stripped all the paint off and started from scratch, bare metal up. I used a two part urethane automotive paint, followed with clear coat. Perfect. Rock-hard finish, impervious to gas spills. If I were painting anything I really liked to show off, I wouldn't even consider a rattle-can. It's all in the prep-work, and applying a quality paint with a gun. In a place where a JUNE BUG won't land in the paint while it's wet and track all through it. Been there. Good Luck.
 
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