[lhhippie]

Hello All,

I have just acquired a Branson 4220 and the previous owner removed all plates within the brake housing. this is the first tractor (aside from a LT) I have owned and do not understand the wet braking system.

some of the reading I have done, kind of reads as the wet brake is getting it's fluid from the hydraulic system/reservoir. other posts kind of read as though ALL fluid beside cooling is the same (Tranny - wet brake - lifting - 3 pt). I did not receive a manual with the tractor but I found some spec's stating 37 gals of hydraulic fluid????? holy cow, is that correct?

so if the wet brake does get it's fluid from the hydraulic reservoir, I am assuming it will just get pumped in when it is running. or do I need to prime it after putting things back together?

more questions to follow and I greatly appreciate the help!!!!!
MTF helped me greatly bringing a 62 Gravely back from a 20 yr sleep, so I know I am on the right forum

 

[Newsman]

Well according to Tractor Data The 4220 says that hydraulic system has a 9.8 gal capacity. TractorData.com Branson 4220 tractor information I'm betting that it said 37 liters as that would be 9.77 gallons.
MikeC

 

[lhhippie]

Thanks for the reply newsman! That makes much more sense. Do you have any thoughts on the brakes using the same hydraulic oil as all other systems?

Thanks in advance

 

[DKvince]

This is what my tractor wet brakes look like (Kioti DK 35). Branson is likely similar.
https://shop.michiganironandequip.c...T385A/01-05|~DK35-M-TRANSMISSION/0105DK350031

My DK 35 transmission case is the fluid hydraulic reservoir. The brakes disks simply ride in the fluid.

 

[DKvince]

What was the previous owners reasoning for removing the brake disks ???

 

[lhhippie]

Thanks DK Vince! Looks pretty close (spacer plates and abrasive plates). So while running the hydraulic oil just flows from the tranny into the brake housing? I thought this may be the case but kind of flying blind here..... no manual and limited pictures I can find etc.

Thanks again!

 

[lhhippie]

I was told that they were sticking or were stuck.

 

[no2498]

disk to thin or not adjusted properly

john

 

[ptsg]

I can get you the service manual for this tractor. It explains pretty much everything about the 20 series.

Here it goes: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qv0mcgvyp6nb2hw/Branson%2020%20series%20service%20manual.pdf?dl=0

As far as wet brakes, it just means that the brake discs are submerged in the oil. Doesn't mean they are hydraulically actuated. They are mechanically actuated. You can see it in the service manual.

I have also a Branson tractor, if you need any help, feel free to ask.

 

[lhhippie]

Wow thank you ptsg!!!!!!

Boy have I got questions ? never owned a tractor and found this broken Branson 4220 with FEL for 2500!! What a steal (I hope).....

I knew it had a bad head when I bought it. I did not know that the head was bad because the intake valve seat broke in half and was smashed into many pieces by the number 2 piston.

I am sure a lot of folks are going to say I am crazy, but I dug out the big pieces and polished the piston so it resembles the others....... still good compression and oil does not leak by when I filled up the #2 piston. So figures crossed I am still good, I really did not want to tear it down further. I only ended up with one extra bolt I have no idea where it goes?????



Anyway, new head assembly complete with valve guides, seats etc. fresh oil, fresh hydraulic oil, new filters all around, new battery. Reassembled the brakes from the box of parts delivered. And they delivered an extra friction plate and an extra wear plate. Which explains the sticking part...... found a good diagram and the 4220 only has 3 of each not 4, ugh.....


I’m ready to turn it over and bleed the air from the fuel lines. Anything that you could recommend before starting would be welcomed!!!

 

[lhhippie]

Sorry I do have another question.

I think it is the power steering behind the fuel pump and it has a cap that says OIL. I have no idea which oil I should put in there

Power steering oil
Tran/hydro oil
Motor oil

I did not see a line coming from the tranny resiovior but the thing is bone dry.
Any thoughts on this one?

Thanks in advance!!!!

 

[lhhippie]

I took a couple of pictures to maybe better understand what I am talking about.

 

[lhhippie]

Well I found out why they were sticking. They had too many friction and pressure plates. There were 4 friction and 4 pressure plates (if that is what they are called) for each side when they delivered.

Looking at the diagrams I figured out how they went together, pretty strait forward. Once I got everything together the tractor would not roll (like it was in gear). I took them apart and reassemble 3 times before I noticed the Branson 4220 diagram only had 3 of each....... ugh.
Took them apart again but this time only using 3 of each and we are now good to go with a little linkage adjustments.

 

[DKvince]

Good luck getting everything back in working order.

 

[ptsg]

The fill plug is for the engine oil. They offer 2 fill ports, one on the valve cover and the other on the front cover as you show in the pictures. On some models you can't access the fill plug on the valve cover due to some brackets for the hood.

The power steering get the oil from the transmission.

By the way, these engines are made under Cummins license, so they are pretty much a Cummins engine. Maybe, just maybe, you can get a piston from Cummins if it's really needed?

I don't know you anyone tried to cross parts between Kukje and Cummins though.

There's also lots of dealers that can help you with parts. For instance, this one is pretty good and has a good website about it: http://www.yourequipmentparts.com/

I don't know where are you located but here's some good dealers with very good reputation on getting parts for these tractors:

Dave's Tractors in CA

Red's in TX

Mr. Bitz in ND

Do you know what year is your tractor? Because there is a newer 4220 (2014 and on I think), which uses the manual I sent you. If you have the older model, I don't have the manual for it unfortunately.

Other than that, looks like you're moving along quite nicely. We sure want to see it running!

 

[lhhippie]

Thanks Ptsg!!

I guess that makes sense thank you for clearifing I was a little baffled by that one.

I think it is a 2004 or 2005 model number A2000N2 and the vendor you supplied link to is great they have everything that is where I got the head, gaskets, one head bolt from and I got the parts in a week!!!!!

I did look for a piston and they have them for like 69 bucks. But that is not something I feel do not feel comfortable doing. I am really really hoping my shade tree resurfacing will hold up.

Not to mention I have no more money. Got the tractor for 2500, head and other parts for 1800, 200 fluids and filters 50 for a new volt meter so I can read ohms if needed and I still need a 140 dollar battery. OH yea I could really use front tires they look like slicks??? I have no idea what the previous owner was doing to wear them so heavily.

IF this does pan out I will be very happy ?
Newer model 2004-2005
42hp
4 wheel drive
FEL

And I really need this to pan out as we are in low lying land and every jul-aug my driveway turns into a small creek and I have to float food and water to the house. I am hoping to dig a large swale next to the driveway and dig a small drainage pong to help with flooding. I plan to use the dirt to raise the driveway and increase burm size around the creek that boarders our property.

 

[ptsg]

As long it's running nicely, it definitely a good deal.

As far as the front tires being good for NASCAR racing, that's probably because the previous owner used the 4x4 all the time, including when driving over hard surfaces like rods, paved driveways and so on.

The front tires with the 4x4 engaged will spin about 5% faster than the rear ones to give the pulling effect on the tractor, so using on hard surfaces, when it's not really needed, will wear the tires really fast, I mean really fast. I often see tractors for sale with less than 400 hours and the front tires have absolutely no life left.

Since the manual I provided is for the newer series, even though some things are pretty much equal, keep in mind that others might no be exactly the same. I'll try and see if I can get an hold on the manual for the 2004 models. I've been trying to collect as much manuals as I can get for Branson tractors, since it's so hard to find.

Oh boy! That's a lot of water where it doesn't belong.

 

[lhhippie]

Yea right not fun when that happens.

I think I have most of the controls figured out, I think the first pix is the 4 or 2 wheel drive just by looking at the pix and it should be in 2 right now.

The second pix I’m not sure what these controls are for. Hydilift (maybe raise and lower PTO implement)?? And I have know idea what the 1-10 lever is for.

I’m sure you would know so I figured I would ask.

Thanks for your help it is greatly appreciated!!

 

[ptsg]

On the first picture, the lever lever is indeed the 4WD, however the stickers are not very clear on which position means what. Usually down is engaged and up disengaged but I can confirm 100% on that tractor. It's a matter of lifting the front wheels with the loader and back drag for a couple feet and see whenever the front wheels turn or not depending on the position of the lever.

The right lever is the PTO gear selector lever. You have 540 on the up position, middle is neutral and down must be 540E (or 780 if you over speed it). 540 is for PTO implements, like a wood chipper that requires lots of power and the engine needs to be running at the rated RPM which should be around 2600 RPM. The 540E runs with the engine on about 1800 RPM, so much less noise and fuel consumption, and it's used with implements that doesn't require that much power. However I've found theses engines to have quite a lot torque, so I rarely use the regular 540 when mowing and tilling. Even with very dense and high brush, it just goes and don't even try to bog down on me.

The right picture, the left lever is for the draft control. This is a function mostly used when plowing. It will lift the plow according to the ground variations and the traction of the tractor. It's a bit tricky to explain and it's really used much. You can pretty much ignore it. Just leave it all the way forward so it lets the 3 pt going all the way down.

The right lever, is the 3 pt control. It lifts and lowers the implement in the back.

When you're sitting in the tractor, if you look down in between your legs, you see a knob. This knob is pretty much like a ball valve and it's used to limit the speed of the implement when lowering. Some times, when moving around in the seat, you can accidentally hit it with your leg and close it all the way, so the implement will only lift but won't come down. So don't be alarmed if the try to lower the implement and won't move. It happened to me also. Then I realize it this knob.

 

[lhhippie]

You my friend are awesome thank you for taking the time to walk me through those levers “very helpful”!!!!

The more I look at the 2 v 4 lever I am pretty sure I have in 2 because the top pix has an arrow around the front wheel and the lower pix has an arrow around the back wheel.

Just got back from the auto parts store with a new 900 CCA battery and very hopeful I do not have to drain to hear this thing fire ??????

Thanks again I’ll follow up later with hopefully good news........