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Discussion Starter #101
So any thoughts about swapping keyed clutch shafts for newer splined clutch shafts?

I'm nearly 100% confident this chatter is internal to the trans, and is a bad bearing. If you run it near WOT, the noise subsides greatly; likely because the bad bearing starts to "float" the shaft that's causing the chatter.

The odd part is if you are going down hill (coast) it is perfectly quite but the more load you get on it (going uphill), the louder the chatter gets...and you can feel it.

Any tips on disassembly? Neither my father or myself have been in a newer rider trans before, but have been in a lot of the older stuff.

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Discussion Starter #102
Well, just for giggles, I swapped the clutches side to side again thinking maybe the new bearing was bad...no change. I think it's in the drive between the engine and clutch somewhere, not downstream of the clutches. Is there a common failure point in that area of the trans?

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Gravely1964
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Well, just for giggles, I swapped the clutches side to side again thinking maybe the new bearing was bad...no change. I think it's in the drive between the engine and clutch somewhere, not downstream of the clutches. Is there a common failure point in that area of the trans?

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Inner hub clutch bearing. Trans needs split to change it. Just did a 16G today at work for same reason .......

Bearing while visible ok, is loud and choppy to turn by hand. Put a new in and all was well now and quiet!
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Thanks, that would make sense...now to learn how to split a transmission.

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Discussion Starter #105
Well, thanks to Arcam8123, I have a transmission to rebuild. Spent last night reefing a seized hub from the right side, took a 13-ton puller, impact gun, bar, and a breaker bar about an hour to force it the entire way off. So I have a bar trans to start with...now to explore the 800s I have sitting up at the house for an LS differential.

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Discussion Starter #106
Ok, the good news is that I got my 50 inch mower rebuilt, hung, and even mowed with it. So after many hours of welding and fabricating last summer, I have a fully functional and very solid 50 inch mower.

The bad news is the tractor shut off like someone hit a switch after about an hour of mowing...no warning, nothing, it was like I switched it off. I rewired this thing when I brought it home, so I know the wiring is functional. I checked the main fuse (which I replaced with a mini-blade fuse), it was fine. I pulled and reset all the connectors, including the switch.

It turns over, but won't hit. I tried to check spark, but it's so bright out I couldn't see anything (meaning either it has no spark, or it has spark I can't see). Gas is good, if it was vapor lock it would have done it earlier and gave indication that was happening.

Where should I start? I'm guessing confirm the switch works, then onto points, condenser, and coil? This is a single lung 16hp Briggs...first it's given trouble.

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Ok, the good news is that I got my 50 inch mower rebuilt, hung, and even mowed with it. So after many hours of welding and fabricating last summer, I have a fully functional and very solid 50 inch mower.

The bad news is the tractor shut off like someone hit a switch after about an hour of mowing...no warning, nothing, it was like I switched it off. I rewired this thing when I brought it home, so I know the wiring is functional. I checked the main fuse (which I replaced with a mini-blade fuse), it was fine. I pulled and reset all the connectors, including the switch.

It turns over, but won't hit. I tried to check spark, but it's so bright out I couldn't see anything (meaning either it has no spark, or it has spark I can't see). Gas is good, if it was vapor lock it would have done it earlier and gave indication that was happening.

Where should I start? I'm guessing confirm the switch works, then onto points, condenser, and coil? This is a single lung 16hp Briggs...first it's given trouble.

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Did you ever get this figured out ? I would try pulling the kill wire from the coil and see if you have spark....


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