I just liberly use sprayon grease, on the connections and the cables. It has worked satisfactory sofar.
7
7
Waterproof electrical wire connectors
I'm aiming to put some rear work lights on the ROPS of a John Deere 4600 utility tractor. I guess I could crimp on any waterproof connector for the new electrical wiring, but I'd like to keep everything uniform if it's not too expensive. My question is what are these connectors/couplers called and where would I get them?
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BTW, the sides and top of the ROPS came predrilled for lights, so altering the ROPS and fishing the wires through isn't an issue.
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Thanks!
BTW, the sides and top of the ROPS came predrilled for lights, so altering the ROPS and fishing the wires through isn't an issue.
Thanks!
4
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
That type of connector is called a "bullet connector" and crimp on versions that are reasonably water resistant, like yours, can be found at good marine supply houses. Probably not so much the weekend warrior boat supply places so you may need to shop online. IIRC West Marine Supply had the good ones.
If I want really waterproof connectors I use a good quality uninsulated crimp on and solder it after crimping. I put a piece of shrink tube over the wire prior to making the connection. Liquid electric tape is put over the connections, the shrink tube is slid over the joint and shrunk down tight on the still wet liquid tape. Once this dries a bit a second coat of liquid tape is applied. So far I've had had no corrosion failures using this method.
Mike
If I want really waterproof connectors I use a good quality uninsulated crimp on and solder it after crimping. I put a piece of shrink tube over the wire prior to making the connection. Liquid electric tape is put over the connections, the shrink tube is slid over the joint and shrunk down tight on the still wet liquid tape. Once this dries a bit a second coat of liquid tape is applied. So far I've had had no corrosion failures using this method.
Mike
These work well.
http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/menu/en/20519
if you only need a few try requesting free samples. www.digikey.com or www.mouser.com should carry them also.
I also found some RayChem connectors at Home depot. Basically you just heat them up and they heat shrink solder and waterproof in one step. you can even buy a heat shrink nozzle for a blue plumbing propane tank.
Hope it helps
http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/menu/en/20519
if you only need a few try requesting free samples. www.digikey.com or www.mouser.com should carry them also.
I also found some RayChem connectors at Home depot. Basically you just heat them up and they heat shrink solder and waterproof in one step. you can even buy a heat shrink nozzle for a blue plumbing propane tank.
Hope it helps
Thanks, 7sleeper. :trink39:I just liberly use sprayon grease, on the connections and the cables. It has worked satisfactory sofar.
7
That did the trick! I searched using variations on the term "bullet connector" and found what I had been looking for at some marine supply shops. Some places also called them "snap plugs." Thanks for sharing your waterproofing method, too. :trink39:That type of connector is called a "bullet connector" and crimp on versions that are reasonably water resistant, like yours, can be found at good marine supply houses. Probably not so much the weekend warrior boat supply places so you may need to shop online. IIRC West Marine Supply had the good ones.
If I want really waterproof connectors I use a good quality uninsulated crimp on and solder it after crimping. I put a piece of shrink tube over the wire prior to making the connection. Liquid electric tape is put over the connections, the shrink tube is slid over the joint and shrunk down tight on the still wet liquid tape. Once this dries a bit a second coat of liquid tape is applied. So far I've had had no corrosion failures using this method.
Mike
Cool product. Thanks! :trink39:These work well.
http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/menu/en/20519
if you only need a few try requesting free samples. www.digikey.com or www.mouser.com should carry them also.
I also found some RayChem connectors at Home depot. Basically you just heat them up and they heat shrink solder and waterproof in one step. you can even buy a heat shrink nozzle for a blue plumbing propane tank.
Hope it helps
Hmmm, I gave away a lot of beer in this reply. Time to have one myself.
Tree Pointer, I hope I don't get in trouble here but I have a set of the John Deere brush guards that fit over your warning lights to attach a set of lights. I had them on a 4600 a few years ago and its a nice way to attach some lights. I also have a set of John Deere rear view mirrors that attach to the fender handles that I never put on the 4600 but are still in a box. If you have any interest you can send me a pm. thanks,
Treepointer
You may think about putting the lights on the inside of the ROP. It took me loosing a few to branches before I moved mint to the inside.
You may think about putting the lights on the inside of the ROP. It took me loosing a few to branches before I moved mint to the inside.
Heheh! I was going to make that mistake until I read that someone else had the same problem. I brush cut along the edges of fields and do a little logging/firewood gathering in the forest, so the ROPS frequently encounters branches.Treepointer
You may think about putting the lights on the inside of the ROP. It took me loosing a few to branches before I moved mint to the inside.
I have three solutions, but I'm still deciding which one I'll do:
- Under ROPS
- On a bar under ROPS
- Removable (rear worklight with magnetic base)
Since I'll only be using the rear work light in winter for a 3-pt snowblower, I think any one of those options will work. I'm leaning toward the first optoin (simplest is best).
Another vote for solder and shrink wrap.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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