My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am new at this but here we go, i have a 1864cub and a 2185cub and both mowers went about 750 hours on the original pto clutch and since replacment both mowers have eaten 2 cluchs a peice this summer. The clutch number is warner 5218-6 and the back bearing are going out, then very diffecult to get off of the crank because they are seized up,but can be done with a 8 inch puller. Can anyone be of assistance on this matter. Thanks alot
 

·
10K and Climbin!
Joined
·
12,307 Posts
Hiya cannonb1 What kind of ***-i-stance are you looking for? Removal or why they are burning up? To help we need to know if they are they failing electrically or mechanically? As far as removal goes, whenever I R&R anything mechanical I always apply a bit of 'never-sieze' for less headaches 'next time'! Get back with failure cause for more help..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Why they are burning up, or why the bearings would be going out on the back side all the time. I am able to get them off but they have been so hot they are seized to the crank. Thanks agin
 

·
10K and Climbin!
Joined
·
12,307 Posts
So, they are overheating huh.. Could be a couple things.. It amy be electrical due to high voltage overheating or mechanical or overheating due to slippage and thermal build-up there.. To check the electrical use a digital V-meter set to DCV and test batt. voltage while running. If it's over 15 then it's cranking out too much charge and will cause problems like that.. (Ohh.. A-rod's back & just blasted a HR!!) :trink40: As far as mechanically, the clutch could have been misaligned when reinstalled.. I heard folks say to adjust it using a piece of paper (poor man's feeler guage!) and it will give the desired results.. Hopefully this will help ya! :goodl:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,606 Posts
Couple thing that could cause the back berfing to fail, Deck belt out alignment, Missing the back support sleve, Over torqe on the Center bolt. Support brace not allowing for the 1/8 free play back and forth.

See if this helps. http://www.warnerelectric.com/pdf/819-0458_P-1097-6.pdf
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,606 Posts
I refer to page 12. Antirotation Requirements
Do Not Restict the Field Assembly Some movement is required
to prevent field bearing failure.

Seen this happen before, the whole clutch assy should move 1/8" back and forth before contacting the Antirotation bar after install.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Back suport sleeves???? Neither one of these mowers had anykind of sleve behind the clutch. And also these clutch's seem to be a more of a seald type clutch, they dont have the adjustment bolts some of the others have . If you could look at a pic of a warner 5218-6 and you will see what i mean.
Thanks alot guys this is going to be a
big help by the time we are done.
 

·
Senior Tinkerer
Joined
·
1,577 Posts
Back suport sleeves???? Neither one of these mowers had anykind of sleve behind the clutch. And also these clutch's seem to be a more of a seald type clutch, they dont have the adjustment bolts some of the others have . If you could look at a pic of a warner 5218-6 and you will see what i mean.
Thanks alot guys this is going to be a
big help by the time we are done.
This may help:
http://www.warnerelectric.com/litportal/pdfs/819-0461_P-1247.pdf

Your clutch appears to be the MagStop. It sounds like there may be a clearance problem? Was this the original p/n for your machine?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yes these were the original numbers, cub number is 717 3403 or 917 3403 which is also warner number 5218-6. These clutchs have a key that goes in the keyway on the clutch. I cant see a way to ajust the tolerance or clearance.
 

·
Senior Tinkerer
Joined
·
1,577 Posts
Yes these were the original numbers, cub number is 717 3403 or 917 3403 which is also warner number 5218-6. These clutchs have a key that goes in the keyway on the clutch. I cant see a way to ajust the tolerance or clearance.
Is the field able to move around some? There needs to be some rotational as well as axial play in the slot where the field is pinned to the block.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
There is a little rotational play but no forward-backward play," or slide on the crank," be cause when you put it on the crank it is tight and the center bolt pulls tight up aginst it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,606 Posts

·
Senior Tinkerer
Joined
·
1,577 Posts
There is a little rotational play but no forward-backward play," or slide on the crank," be cause when you put it on the crank it is tight and the center bolt pulls tight up aginst it.
I believe that the "axial" play they are referring to is along a line perpendicular to the crank. The idea seems to be that if there is no play in this dimension there could be an excessive load on the bearing. See figure 2 on page 2 of the pdf.

I do not currently have a MagStop clutch to look at, but I remember when I did have one that the anti-rotational pin had clearance between the sides of the slot as well as between the bottom of the slot and the pin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Ok thanks, when i get a new clutch bought, i will shine the crank and keyway up real good with a peice of emory and then put some anti-seize on it to make sure it has some slide.
Thanks alot for the help.
 

·
Senior Tinkerer
Joined
·
1,577 Posts
Ok thanks, when i get a new clutch bought, i will shine the crank and keyway up real good with a peice of emory and then put some anti-seize on it to make sure it has some slide.
Thanks alot for the help.
cannonb1, there will be no end play in the clutch once tightened down on the crank. You would not need any lube or anti-seize to help with that, only maybe to help when taking it off next time.

The clearance you are looking for is where the anti-rotational pin stakes the field into position. Where the pin passes thru the slot on the clutch plate, it needs some clearance side-to-side in the slot as well as not be bottomed out in the slot (and thus pushing the field toward the crank).
Yours does have a pin screwed into the engine block and going thru the slot to hold the field, does it not?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Yes it does have a pin, like i say there is some rotational play but as far as axial play the bolt in the crank has been pulling it down tight unless i would shine it up enough so it would slide back and forth.
 

·
Senior Tinkerer
Joined
·
1,577 Posts
Yes it does have a pin, like i say there is some rotational play but as far as axial play the bolt in the crank has been pulling it down tight unless i would shine it up enough so it would slide back and forth.
And does the pin have clearance at the bottom of the anti-rotation slot?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
The best i remember the pin was in about the center of the slot, i have alredy removed the clutch and in search of a new one.
 

·
Senior Tinkerer
Joined
·
1,577 Posts
The best i remember the pin was in about the center of the slot, i have alredy removed the clutch and in search of a new one.
Center of the slot sounds good! Good luck on your search. Cheapest site I found was:
http://www.psep.biz/store/cub_cadet_electric_pto_clutch.htm
but they did not have the number I needed. I don't know anything about the business.

Here is a place to get a better write-up on MagStop installation problems:
http://www.turftractor.com/10.html
Look at the Residential and Commercial Magstop pdf.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top