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Model 422437 1256 01. Checked Searspartsdirect, and appears all the parts are available.
Little history, purchaced not running. No air filter assembly, Crank case full of water, don't know how long. Changed the oil 5 times while restoring. 1st as soon as I got it home, 2nd after pulling the plugs and rebuilt the stater, cranked over till battery got low. 3rd on a test fire to check coil, ran for 30 seconds, 4th after a test ride, 1.5 miles, and now on the 5th.
Eng seemed ok, but was hard to tell as the muffler was full of rust holes. Finally installed a dual exaust setup, and now I can tell that the R/H cylander may have a valve problem, when turning over by hand the valves on the R/H side seem to have a gap, and clatter on shut down. The L/H exaust is smooth, the R/H exaust has a slight skip and pop miss at low rpm, can not tell any issues at full governed rpm under load.
No smoke at all.
Now for the questions.
1. Can i change the valves and seats with out special tools? The manual Had the Astric note at the bottom of the page, but the valve parts did not have a astric beside them.
2. Looks all I need to do is pull the heads and valve pan covers, Do I need to go inside the block to inspect the cam or change the valve tappets.
3, anyone got a detailed sticky for this? If not, i guess I will document mine.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Model 422437 1256 01.
Now for the questions.
1. Can i change the valves and seats with out special tools? The manual Had the Astric note at the bottom of the page, but the valve parts did not have a astric beside them.
2. Looks all I need to do is pull the heads and valve pan covers, Do I need to go inside the block to inspect the cam or change the valve tappets.
3, anyone got a detailed sticky for this? If not, i guess I will document mine.
Thanks in advance.
First no you do not "need" a special tool to pull the valves out...you can do it with 2 screw drives(flat head) but the best way is a valve spring compressor its a little easier to take them out this way but screw drivers will work you just have to be careful with them you should not pull the valve seats out if they are not out of the block by them selves they should be ok just clean them when you take the valves out(but if you wanted too there might be a tool but Ive never seen one might try a screw driver again)...if you want to take the valve tappets out you have to pull the cam out of the motor there is no way out of this as for the end that hits the valves you can look at them were the valves are located...the 3rd one im not sure but if you have problems understanding my rambling let me know
 

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You should be able to download a free Service Manual for your engine at - http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/

There is of course a special tool for removing the valve seats, or it can be made but no reason to unless seat is already loose OR badly pitted or burned then a machine shop needs to get involved anyway.

It is not uncommon for this engine to run stronger on one cylinder than the other. There should be an adjusting screw just below the air cleaner sticking straight out at you, try turning this 1/8 turn counter clockwise and see if that helps.

Walt Conner
 

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