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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced the valve cover gasket on my SV600-0009 (Cub Cadet LT1045) a couple years ago due to leaking. It has started to leak again this year. After snooping around on the net a bit, I find some saying that Cub Cadet no longer recommends replacing the gasket and instead recommends RTV gasket maker.

I would like to know what you guys think and if you have dealt with this problem. If RTV gasket maker is the way to go, what version do I use and exactly how do I apply it.

Thanks,
Bruce

2008 Cub Cadet LT 1045
Manufacture date: 2/20/2008
Kohler 20 HP single cyl. Twin cam OVH
Model SV600S
Spec No: SV600-0009
 

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just follow directions on the product container, more than likely apply to clean dry surface, remember more is NOT better, its to be a barrier to any oil seeping out, dont overtighten hold down bolts...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Ray, that is how I will proceed. I ordered a tube of the Permatex RTV Black Ultra off Amazon and it should be here tomorrow. It is isn't raining out, I will get on it.
 

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I didnt really impress...both mating surfaces must be clean and dry....a let it set up a bit before subjecting it to heat and oil.....lay the valve cover on a known FLAT surface, there may NOT be any gaps.....if so check back here.....might need new cover maybe not....Congrats.......you are now a Cub Cadet Mechanix.....Lol
 

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I replaced the valve cover gasket on my SV600-0009 (Cub Cadet LT1045) a couple years ago due to leaking. It has started to leak again this year. After snooping around on the net a bit, I find some saying that Cub Cadet no longer recommends replacing the gasket and instead recommends RTV gasket maker.....

Would you listen to Kohler for Cub Cadet issues?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When it comes to the Motor, I would go with Kohler. I just saw a bunch of reviews on the OEM gasket stating that the cork gaskets keep failing and they were being told to use RTV instead. Since mine failed twice, I have to kinda agree. And, yes, I did torque them down to specs.

I just got the RTV this morning and will go out and give it a shot, but temps are mid 40's right now and I am going to have to let it set for a couple days before I try to run the motor. I might run a little heat to it via electric fan to help with the stuff setting.
 

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When it comes to the Motor, I would go with Kohler. I just saw a bunch of reviews on the OEM gasket stating that the cork gaskets keep failing and they were being told to use RTV instead. Since mine failed twice, I have to kinda agree. And, yes, I did torque them down to specs.

I just got the RTV this morning and will go out and give it a shot, but temps are mid 40's right now and I am going to have to let it set for a couple days before I try to run the motor. I might run a little heat to it via electric fan to help with the stuff setting.
Throw some of that heat on the motor to warm it up along with the valve cover before you put the goop on, might help a little also..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Ray. I decided to wait until later next week. The temps are supposed to rebound into the mid 50's. No need to rush it, I guess. But, yah, I plan to heat the valve cover and motor a bit before I do the RTV gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Another question: When I torque down the bolts with the RTV, do I torque them to the same specs as when using a regular gasket?

Valve Cover
Valve Cover Fastener Torque...................
11.0 N·m (95 in. lb.) Into new as-cast hole
7.5 N·m (65 in. lb.) Into used hole

I am assuming I go with 65 in lbs according to this spec since it is a "used" hole?
 

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I would suggest not overdoing it with the RTV though (putting gobs and gobs on), as the excess on the inside can come off and the bits make their way to the bottom of the engine, where the oil pump inlet is.

I am not arguing to not use RTV, just that this is not a case for "more is better".
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Right. I am planning on limiting the amount used.
 

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Another question: When I torque down the bolts with the RTV, do I torque them to the same specs as when using a regular gasket?

Valve Cover
Valve Cover Fastener Torque...................
11.0 N·m (95 in. lb.) Into new as-cast hole
7.5 N·m (65 in. lb.) Into used hole

I am assuming I go with 65 in lbs according to this spec since it is a "used" hole?
Thats how I would do it, then eyeball check it now and then, then in a few hours running time check for any looseness

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yah, I am tempted to do it today, but with the high for the day not getting above 45, I think I will wait. They are talking high fifties later next week. I would really like to get it done but, I better wait.
But, yah, I will go with 65 inch pounds. I just calibrated the torque wrench last night so I don't have to worry about stripping out the aluminum block.
 

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I second that comment about the valve cover mating surface has to be flat. I recall working on older engines with leaky stamped valve covers.

Spongy rubber or rubber/cork type gaskets allowed over tightened hold down bolts to deform the mating surface so that after a while, they just constantly leaked even with new gaskets.

It is difficult to re flatten them, but it can be done with patience. Using RTV allowed the
covers to be snugged down, as long as not so tight as to deform the cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
OK, so are you guys saying I may have "bent" my valve cover by over tightening it? I guess I can put the cover on some glass to make sure it is flat and try to "fix" it if it isn't. Should I just buy a new valve cover?
 

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You can fix it as Flaken has noted, light and careful taps. Be aware that the entire thing can warp if you wail on it.

I know I've found some (auto) engines so tight that the covers looked like they had been stamped with a 1/8th inch deflection at each bolt hole. Those are just scrap metal.

Not sure why tightening is such an issue as there is almost no pressure under the valve covers of most engines that I've work on. Only need to stop any internal gravity oil flows back through the heads and to the pan. Thus a limited torque spec on most.

Good luck on yours, and if you can, let us know which way you go on resealing and how it worked out.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Alien, yah, I probably torqued it down much over the 65 inch pounds it called for. But, I won't do that again. I will be careful with any "straightening" that I attempt and if I think I compromised it beyond usuability, I will replace it. I think I will be OK though. I don't think I torqued it that bad.

And you are right, they don't need to seal in/out pressure, just prevent oil from leaking out. If the mower sits for several days/weeks, about a minute or so after I start it up, it will all of a sudden start to smoke pretty bad. Then it quits. It is simply from oil leaking out and onto the muffler while it sits. The first couple times that happened to me, I thought the motor was fixing to blow up. hahaha. Then I realized that it was just raw oil leaking down onto the muffler. I suppose it leaks while I am using it as well, but it burns off as soon as it hits the muffler in small drips so I don't notice it.

Another question I have is regarding how to install the valve cover once I get the RTV on it. Some say, add the RTV, put the cover back on lightly and wait 5 to 15 minutes and then torque it down to specs. Others say wait an hour after putting the cover back on. Some say to put the RTV on the cover, then wait 15 minutes before you install it. Then on the Permatex RTV Black Ultra package, it says to install it immediately after applying and finger tighten each bolt. Then after one hour, torque them down to specs.

I am kind of inclined to follow the directions on the package. What would you guys do?

ALso, on more question. The bolts on the valve cover keep coming loose. Would it be wise to use a dab of blue Loctite on them or would that be a No No?
 

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Directions from the manufacturer? You really read those things? :sidelaugh

Follow the directions on the packaging.
 
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