[Jose Moonfur]

I am in need of a new vacuum fuel pump for a modified Club Car golf cart with a Kawasaki FE290 motor . A new pump from the golfcart store or Kawasaki runs $60-$75. A new B&S pump (#808656) runs $25-40. I'm not sure what motor B&S uses this pump with but these pumps have the same size ports, same number of ports and the chamber appears to be close to the same size. The rebuild kits I find on Ebay look to be identical, same number of diaphragms, gaskets and valves. Can anybody tell me why the B&S won't work? I'm guessing that as long as they are about the same size they will pump at about the same rate. Saving 40 bucks looks good to me. I know this isn't technically a tractor but around the Lazy MF it gets used like one. And it cost me a lot less than a Gator or a Mule.

JM

 

[D-Dogg]

To throw you a curve, Jose another option for you would be to just go with a small electric fuel pump.

 

[Jose Moonfur]

Would that be any cheaper or would the performance be more reliable? The biggest reason I was looking at the swap was to save a 2 hour trip to the bigger city to get the Kawasaki part and to save some money to boot. I can get the Briggs part in the next town over. Win, win.

 

[Jose Moonfur]

But only if it will work........




JM

 

[D-Dogg]

I mainly like that I can turn the key on and let the fuel system pressurize, then hit start and be running. No cranking away after the tractor has been sitting for a week.

I honestly doubt one is more reliable than the other.

NAPA could help you size a pump. Probably $35 so a bit more expensive than a diaphram for rebuilding your vacuum pump.

 

[440roadrunner]

I dunooo. Many hotrodders complain about the poor quality of modern electric pumps, but I'm not aware of any readily available specifically for low pressure use, so you'd probably have to buy one plus a regulator.

 

[Jose Moonfur]

I'll come clean. The reason I need a new one is that during the course of cleaning the old one following a "water in the gas" episode, I lost the clear plastic separator. I was working on the tailgate of my Scout and had the parts all laid out to dry. I went in the house to get a drink and while I was gone a gust front moved thru and kicked up a wind. When I came back out......no plastic piece. The cart never cranks hard to start, unless there is water in the tank, of course, so that hasn't been a concern. Speaking of that, I have a real problem with the ethanol blend that they sell around here. Any equipment that sits for a period of time is prone to collecting water as the ethanol separates and attracts water. I went online and read about it. What do most of you do to fight it? Gas is expensive enough without having to buy additives for each tankful.

JM

 

[Dude11]

I'm not sure of you engine size--but,I've never had tro.with the plastic remote pumps.First,they work on anything I've had from 8hp.to 24hp.I think their all pertty much the same in amount of flow,and low pressure,your needle & seat shouldn't let it flood your carb.Second,I have had not so great luck with org.pumps I've rebuilt.

 

[Jose Moonfur]

Thanks Dude11. That's what I was wanting to hear. I'm going to get one this afternoon and give it a try. It looks like my biggest problem is getting all of the bad gas out of the tank. There isn't a drain so I will have to siphon it out. The only way to remove the tank is to pull the body off, not an option I want to tackle today (100+ degrees and lots of humidity). I'll let you know how it all works out. BTW, the FE290 Kawasaki is listed as 9hp.

 

[Tractor-Holic]

If you buy a small inline electric fuel pump rated for an import with a carbed engine you'll be fine..

I used an old AC fuel pump I had lying around that is big enough to handle a 400+ V8,looks like a mini beer barrel, on my 20 HP Kohler and it hasn't flooded it once,and it puts out 6-8 psi..the lower pressured import style pumps will put out 3-6 psi..the needle in a car carb & its float aint much different than a small engine,I wouldn't worry about it flooding unless the needle and seat needs replacing anyway..

The type of pump I'd look for resembles a small electrical transformer,they have a nylon ball inside thats operated by a solenoid..they are tiny enough to muont easily in tight engine compartmemts,but remember,electric pumps "PUSH" fuel a lot better than sucking it,so its important to mount them close to the tank if possible--I think thats why many fail rapidly,and they get a bad rap,they get mounted close to the carb and run too long airbound,and overheat and seize..
I wired mine to a push button and only energized it to prime the carb for a quick start after long sitting time--the stock vacuum fuel pump seems to work OK once its started,it can draw gas through the electric pump even with it "off",so I only use it when it has sat before firing it up--but if you bypassed the vaccuum pump you could run exclusively off the elecrtic pump OK..use an inline fuse and a switch though,for safety--the "correct" way to wire an electric pump up is to incorperate it in with the oil pressure sending unit ,so it wont keep running if the engine stalls,to avoid filling the crankcase with gas--but I haven't gone to that extreme on my setup,since I use it mostly as a "primer" to fill the carb bowl up after its sat a long time,not constantly..

 

[D-Dogg]

That's a good idea on integrating it with the oil pressure sensor, TH. I will do exactly that when I replace my wiring harness.

I'm assuming you use the sender output to pick a relay, thus energizing the pump?

 

[Tractor-Holic]

I think thats how they are wired on most cars nowadays,but looking at a wiring schematic will be the best way to see how its done..
Here's a story about an oil pressure switch that was hooked up to a fuel pump,maybe one like this VEGA had,would work..

My sister had a 74 Vega that had one of the first "in tank" electric fuel pumps..one day in '76,it stalled about a mile from her house,so I dragged it back with a tow rope,and replaced the pump--had to drop the gas tank,it was a sucky job!..ran great again,thought that was the problem--until it died about ten feet from where it stalled two days before!..in the middle of January,no less..

I figured the pump was defective,I dropped the tank again,and the parts store handed another pump over under warranty--(never thought to test it on a battery though!)--again it started fine,and I drove it 15 miles with my sister following me,with NO troubles!..

I thought it was fixed for good...WRONG!..next day it didn't even back out of her driveway before it stalled,and refused to fire up again--silence when I listened for the pump,it wasn't working!..I beat on the tank with the key on,checked the fuse,it was OK,and I had power getting to the wires on the pump--but it had THREE wires,one I guessed was a ground,the other two had power (??)..

I finally started calling mechanics I knew from working at parts stores,and two said the same thing---- "Oh,a VEGA??..Replace the oil pressure sending unit!..I bet thats what yer problem is!..

I went HUH??.."yup,it runs the FUEL pump too,even if the "OIL" light works right,the portion of the switch that cuts power to the fuel pump can (bleep) up!..we had a few drive us NUTS till we figured THAT out!..see if it looks melted where the contacts are the wires plug onto,or if they are loose--if you can wiggle them,its JUNK!..

SO--I replaced the oil pressure sending unit (6 bucks!),and it fired up instantly..never gave any trouble after that..I jumped her original fuel pump to the battery,to test it--nothing wrong with it!..it gushed gas all over me,good thing it didn't ignite!.....

man,I was so ticked,all that work in the freezing snow for NOTHING!..(and 35 bucks for a pump it didn't even NEED too!)..

 

[tractorkid94]

Another advantage about an electric pump is that if you have to drain the tank again, you just unhook the fuel line from the carb and let the pump push the bad fuel out.

 

[Tractor-Holic]

HE could also use compressed air ,take the hose off at the carb and apply air pressure at the gas cap carefully,NOT at full blast,and it'll blow the gas into a can ,but I'd do it outside if possible,since it'll make fuel vapors galore..

I added an electric fuel pump in addition to the mechanical "lift" pump on my 82 GMC's diesel--now if I need to change the fuel filter,there is no need to fill it full of diesel fuel first,then bleed the air out--I just spin on a new one,and turn the key on,and the electric pump fills the empty new filter full,I just leave the bleeder at the top open till I see fuel come out with no air,and she fires right up..

I roasted a starter trying to do it bleeding it the usual way,so I said screw this!..I noticed later on newer trucks,that GM added an electric pump in '87 too!..

 

[tractorkid94]

HE could also use compressed air ,take the hose off at the carb and apply air pressure at the gas cap carefully,NOT at full blast,and it'll blow the gas into a can ,but I'd do it outside if possible,since it'll make fuel vapors galore..

I never thought of that....sounds a little dangerous though (my luck the vapors would find some way to ignite).

 

[Tractor-Holic]

We had to resort to doing it that way to drain cars gas tanks when replacing the electric fuel pump,and they had more than 1/2 a tank full!--
--you cant get a siphon hose in most vehicles filler necks,they have anti-siphon balls or sharp bends,etc--nor can you remove the filler neck without dropping the tank some first (catch 22!)--also most fuel lines go in the top of the tank into the sending unit,so it cant be drained by simply removing the fuel line,and siphoning it there wont always work due to the fuel pump and "sock" filter-..
so we were more or less forced to use that method ,to get the gas out!..either that or punch a hole in the tank!..(not an option, unless the tank was junk too!)..

 

[red454]

If you buy a small inline electric fuel pump rated for an import with a carbed engine you'll be fine..

I used an old AC fuel pump I had lying around that is big enough to handle a 400+ V8,looks like a mini beer barrel, on my 20 HP Kohler and it hasn't flooded it once,and it puts out 6-8 psi..the lower pressured import style pumps will put out 3-6 psi..the needle in a car carb & its float aint much different than a small engine,I wouldn't worry about it flooding unless the needle and seat needs replacing anyway..

The type of pump I'd look for resembles a small electrical transformer,they have a nylon ball inside thats operated by a solenoid..they are tiny enough to muont easily in tight engine compartmemts,but remember,electric pumps "PUSH" fuel a lot better than sucking it,so its important to mount them close to the tank if possible--I think thats why many fail rapidly,and they get a bad rap,they get mounted close to the carb and run too long airbound,and overheat and seize..
I wired mine to a push button and only energized it to prime the carb for a quick start after long sitting time--the stock vacuum fuel pump seems to work OK once its started,it can draw gas through the electric pump even with it "off",so I only use it when it has sat before firing it up--but if you bypassed the vaccuum pump you could run exclusively off the elecrtic pump OK..use an inline fuse and a switch though,for safety--the "correct" way to wire an electric pump up is to incorperate it in with the oil pressure sending unit ,so it wont keep running if the engine stalls,to avoid filling the crankcase with gas--but I haven't gone to that extreme on my setup,since I use it mostly as a "primer" to fill the carb bowl up after its sat a long time,not constantly..

I think another reason the electric fuel pump is wired into the oil pressure circuit is so that in an accident, if the line is ruptured (and the engine stalls) gas won't be pumped all over. No oil pressure, no power to the pump. Good idea on the tractor too.

I like your idea of a 'helper' pump...

 

[tiburon62]

Hello, so what type of electric fuel pump are people using? I have an old Magnatrac tractor with the OH160 series Tecumseh engine. the carb is a Walbro LMH that uses crank vacuum to run the auto pulse fuel pump( 3001 series) The fuel pump gaskets are done.

What about a Mr Gasket microelectric fuel pump. The 12s model is 2-3.5 psi.
Would this work? How would you route the fuel line?

Thanks for any info.

Peter

 

[Stan the Air Man]

Hello, so what type of electric fuel pump are people using? I have an old Magnatrac tractor with the OH160 series Tecumseh engine. the carb is a Walbro LMH that uses crank vacuum to run the auto pulse fuel pump( 3001 series) The fuel pump gaskets are done.

What about a Mr Gasket microelectric fuel pump. The 12s model is 2-3.5 psi.
Would this work? How would you route the fuel line?

Thanks for any info.

Peter

Considering the cost of the Tecumseh pulse fuel pump, I see why you are looking at the electric. The electric pump should work fine. The concern is pop-off pressure of the carburetor but the pump is in the correct range.

You will need to cap or seal off the pulse line. Then it is just a matter of connecting the tank fuel line to the “In” port and the carburetor line to the “Out” port on the pump.