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Under the this may sound stupid, but I have a question, How do you guys work the 3pt hitch on a 2305/2210?

I have a heck of time with either my box scraper or 6' blade, it is never where I want it, not down far enough, or digging too deep. There has to be a trick to it that I'm missing.

I tried spreading 10 yards of crushed concrete over some fabric over the weekend my best result was back dragging with the fel after giving up with the 3pt.

If this has been discussed before sorry, just give me a link please.

blizz
 

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Jack of All Trades
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Unless you have a hydraulic top link on the 3 point, you will do better back dragging with the fel. With the hydraulic top link you can tilt the blade toward or away from you as needed. Toward you causes it to "cut" away from you causes it to "fill". when I run a skip loader with a Gannon, I drop the 3 point in float position and adjust the top link to make my cuts and fills as needed. Using this method I can get my work to grade within a quarter in or less, with the fel within a half inch or so of finish grade. Don't expect those kind of results your first day, or even week out, give it say at least a year, 8 hours a day, to get that close of tolerance. Just be patient, take your time and you will be ok. By the way, since your over fabric BE SURE NOT to spin the tires. It would work better knocking the piles down, or dump and spread at the same time with the fel, then fine tune it with the box blade. Hope this helps.
 

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If your trying to set your depth to the same depth time and time again you will need to make some chains to control the amount of drop your three point will drop. With out position control the three point is a little tricky to get the same depth each time with out chains mounted from your arms up to the chassis some where... Or get skid shoes welded to the rear of your box blade.
 

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Under the this may sound stupid, but I have a question, How do you guys work the 3pt hitch on a 2305/2210?

I have a heck of time with either my box scraper or 6' blade, it is never where I want it, not down far enough, or digging too deep. There has to be a trick to it that I'm missing.

I tried spreading 10 yards of crushed concrete over some fabric over the weekend my best result was back dragging with the fel after giving up with the 3pt.

If this has been discussed before sorry, just give me a link please.

blizz
Here are some videos that might help.:fing32:

 

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Nice link Ken. Not only will it help explain attachments, but will also give people some safety factors to consider, weather running a store bought plow, or making and designing your own. I like the shear pin on the one bottom plow, beats pulling the rear off the Cub!
 

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adjust the drop rate, so when you lower, it goes down slooooow... then you have the time to adjust the height anywhere you want....
 

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Being a new guy I have had to "learn by doing" quite a bit. With a Box Blade it is not how far down the 3PT hitch is, but the ANGLE of the BB which is adjusted with the Top Link.

With the tractor going forward (everything is reversed if backing up) if you shorten the Top Link and the BB will dig in - lengthen it and it will smooth what you just dug up. How much it digs (or smooths) depends on angle of the lower edge of the BB, the weight of BB (a lot of BBs have provisions for adding weight), the coarseness of what you are trying to dig/smooth and how fast you are going.

I taught all this to my self in an area behind some trees at the edge of my lawn. Took about an hour of playing with different angles and such. My suggestion is to find an out of sight place (behind some trees perhaps :) ) and dig it up and smooth it down.

A poster above mentioned a Hydraulic Top Link - nice to have since you can adjust the angle of the BB from the seat. I can't put one on my tractor without adding an additional valve, so I just get off and adjust it by hand,
 

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Clint spoke it perfectly... I practiced on my lawn for about an hour (before I seeded the lawn) and got the feel for my box blade. I've found the "sweet spot" for my top link adjustment that works perfect with my box blade, but it took me an hour to find that spot.

At first I was frustrated with the darn thing.. (wouldn't dig; then was digging trenches, etc.) but once I played with it more (the 1 hour practice session), I find it fun to use!

Good luck! Practice (& patience!) makes perfect!
 

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Just as the guys above have said, I too was having your problem with my 2060 rear blade. With the top arm pulled back toward the tractor, it curls the cutting edge over enough to drag and level without cutting in too much. that how I use it now for both dirt & gravel in the drive. With a blade, when in reverse, it will float enought to give a pretty nice finish in dirt, loose gravel, & snow without having to turn the blade around.
 
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