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Discussion Starter #21
Update:

So I just had a bit of a look. I removed the instrument panel surround as best I could, I couldn’t completely remove it because the steering wheel and throttle lever prevent me pulling it up. But from what I saw the wiring is intact, nothing burnt or raw and exposed.

I noticed that the replacement 20 fuse in socket A was now burnt/broke. So I replaced it with a new one wondering if it would start up, the second I turned the key I heard a snap/pop BEFORE anything lit up and it blew that fuse in A again.

for the most part I see nothing along the wiring harness Without it’s complete removal to be an issue

the battery connects and connection to the frame are all intact, seat wiring appears fine.
 

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time for one of my fun toys, I mean tool..
 

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I think at this point with the machine under warranty I'd let Deere fix it. You'd need a wiring diagram to be able to trace whats powered up when you hit the key to begin with so you could start isolating circuits.


A hospital I used to work with bought 2 JD 3030r(compact utility models) while still in warranty both machines had to have their wiring harness replaced due to poor routing at the factory. They are about the same age so I wonder if it was a issue with design? It could also be a component with an internal dead short.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I thought I made a break through when I found a broken bulb! It was shattered and probably from work during the summer and forgot about it. I replaced the bulb, there was no corrosionand thought this was the moment, put in a new fuse but it blew again!
Same one 20A in slot A

I listened for the pop and it appears to be coming from behind the key starter but I may be imagining things...
 

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Discussion Starter #26
OK...leave the bulb out and try it without the bulb and see what happens
Tried it and it blew fuse A again!

I don’t think that was the issue and I inspected the socket of the bulb and it’s perfect

I almost think the pop is coming from within the instrument panel or under it. But under it was perfect from what I could see.

I do notice occasional condensation on the dash panel, just wondering if a capacitor or something inside there could be preventing this?

I turned the key this time without even pressing the brake down or sitting on the seat and it still popped the fuse so I’m thinking that rules out the brake and seat being the issue....
 

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don't how X758 looks, however, my X720 & X595 has/had wires laying against radiator screen, I moved wires thinking they could chaf and short someday.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Somehow I wonder if this is related to a bad starter/ignition or instrument cluster ?

would either of those cause complete lights out and/or short

it doesn’t even light up the instrument panel temporarily
 

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when the X700's came out, the dash/ gauge cluster is the brain of the tractor, hope it's nothing internal in the gauge cluster
 

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You've got this narrowed down to something that is powered when the key is turned on. So it's time for a wiring diagram, then following it to everything that's powered when the key is turned on. The next step is to unplug everything and either use a meter to check for resistance or plug thing items back in until the fuse blows.

When you get to this step of electrical troubleshooting you have to be fairly methodical so you don't over look things.

If you could get your dealer to give you a copy of the wiring diagram I'm confident that I could get you zero'd in on the problem in short order.

One quick and dirty idea is to pull all the relays out of the fuse block and install a new 20A fuse and see what happens when you turn the key. I've seen relays short to ground but I don't think they are in that 20A circuit but without the wiring diagram its hard to say.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
If the lights are in the off position, and the dc 12v output (lighter socket) is in the off position, then does that rule them out?
Also, what else is underneath that middle/fender area....

I suppose this could be one of those things you spent 4 hours at and a guy that does it every day spends ten mins on it and figures it with a multimeter
 

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the power wire to switches can be shorted,
 

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I thought this thing is under warranty. If it is I wouldn't be messing with it. Let the dealer fix it.
 

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Shorts in wiring harnesses can be a bear to find.
If you do decide to tackle it youself, they do make ATC/ATM (I think) fuses that are time delay auto reset for a couple bucks. I use them when chasing electrical shorts like this so I don't keep going through fuses.
Also, if you do decide to keep chasing this yourself, anywhere the wiring harness runs anywhere near the frame or passes through a body panel (fender pan - hint), even if it's plastic, is suspect. It doesn't take much missing insulation to short out a wire.

Pull ALL fuses that are not blowing when you turn the key on. If the condition persists, it can rule out a lot of wires. You'll know what circuits the short ISN'T on, provided it's one of those circuits. You might start unplugging every electrical connection you can find, also, and do the same thing. If fuse no blow, it'll rule out lots of stuff.

If indeed the machine is under warranty, best to let the dealer handle everything.
 

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I know you have said you made sure safety switches like on the seat are plugged in but have you actually checked the safety switches to make sure they are working. I have to agree with mattmag that if you are not experienced at trouble shooting wiring you can spend a lot of time chasing your tail.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Yeh it is time consuming
The dealer is coming to pick up but earliest pick up is Friday and said he won’t look at it until next week. These are the biggest Deere store in MA and nearby!

in the meantime I’ve ordered a multi meter to check things out where I can. I did check the safety switches/plugs like the brake, the seat, and PTO, and starter, but that was more just to see if connected which they were connected which they were.
But to test them do you just unplug them and run the black and red to each side and test resistance or what on the multimeter? At least then we’d know if they are issues or not

also, when I turn the key even half way it’s popping fuses, so who knows it could even be a bad solenoid
 

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Unplug the solenoid on the injector pump. I'm assuming yours has one. It won't start unless you manually hold it over but you can at least rule it out. Had one go bad on a 455 and was blowing fuse. Just throwing it out there. One thing to rule out. You may have to take fender deck off to check wiring. Like the other guys said, if it's still under warranty let the dealer take care of it.
 

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Did you add an accessory to the tractor that might have pinched a wire? if so, the dealer might send you a bill.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
A NOCO battery tender was added to maintain the battery, I went back and inspected that and no issues
 
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