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robrike
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45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I have had my 2000 10323 that I got for $25 up and running for 3 mows in the last month. Has been pretty solid from a performance stand point. I got it for $25 and rebuilt the entire carb, had to put in a new coil and throttle cable and ultimately discovered the reeds were rotted away as show in this post http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=137835
I ended up getting new reeds, governor spring, air filter and drive belt and upper and lower seals and gave it the full work over. REpacked transmission wtih Amsoil grease, new primer and new blade. Echoman and several others were life savers during all of that.

So far it has made it through 3 mows and I am pretty pleased with the perfromance so far. I do have a few concerns however and they may be nothing at all.

1. When mowing with the right side down on an incline it wants to slow down in rpms and once even cut off. The fuel pickup is on the right side so all fuel was on that end. Makes no sense unless it is a carb issue. Float was pretty much level with base of carb when I worked on it. Also drops a small amount in rpm when pointing down a hill.

2. Throttle response can be slow going from idle to full throttle. Not any real smoke to speak of. Using Opti 2 and have been happy with it so far. Getting ready to try Stihl hp Pro next. Just worried I have a minor carb issue still. When at idle after warming up I can advance to full throttle but it is still not all the way maxed. FAster response when first started cold. If warm and I go to choke it runs rough but when I pull it back to full throttle it revs high and then I have to back it down to idle.

3. Anyone ever try the tach/hourmeter combo that Northern Tool sells? Thinkin I need to dial in rpms and having a mounted display on handlebar would be great.

4. Rear tires are slick. I have an extremely hilly yard and need better traction. Anyone ever try the retread thing with a bike tire and adhesive and screws as in this video http://lowrider-design.com/728/how-to-retread-lawn-mower-drive-wheels/

Looks interesting and worst case I am out $13 for bike tire and get new tires to go on it.

Do any of the rpm issues make any sense or point to one particular carb area to address? Reeds are brand new and never did find out what ate my lower one.

This winter the engine comes off again and I plan to repaint deck. The front nose of the deck is bashed in some as is typical and I am wondering how to get it straight again. Big hammer???:thThumbsU

Thanks to all on MTF, you have been a wonderful source of info and very much inspiring.

Thanks,
Rob
 

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Lifetime Lawn Guy
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1,426 Posts
Thinking your float level may be a little off. I'm clueless on the specs for the newer carbs though (I can look in my books for the older ones).

Definately get a tach. I use a "tiny tach", it's designed to mount on a mower, it reads total hours when the machine is off and displays the RPM's when it's running. I just have one loose that I wrap the red lead around the plug wire and check the RPM's on anything up to 2 cylinders. Yes, the standard one works on 2-strokes (to my suprise). I think they are around $45, though I've seen cheaper versions that also display RPM's, and handheld models that work on any engine are available too. A must-have to correctly set one!

For rear tires, just look on Ebay. You may have to bid on a few over time if you have a max spending limit, there's used sets that come up that are in fine condition from time to time. Of course 2 new drive wheels I believe is about $45. I bought a pair of commercial steel ones from member es_bob (on here and ebay) because I wanted to "commercial-ize" a 10525 model. Just have to get orange steel 6" fronts now...
 

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robrike
Joined
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45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info LawnboyKS. I was looking at a similar type "tiny tach" at Northern Tool. Think I will grab one tonight or tomorrow night. I plan to see what rpm's I am running at now and adjust to proper setting. Then I can use that as a baseline to decide if carb needs float adjusting, etc. My air filter gets dirty really fast with the mulch plug in. In just 3 hours with a new filter it is time to clean the thing. Maybe try less oil on it this time. It was pre-oiled when purchased so perhaps they bathed it in 30 weight.

If my rpm's are around 3100 at full throttle and I still have problems I will dive back into the carb. Really happy overall with the performance. I want to do some deck work this winter and knock the nose back in place and paint it but nothing extreme, just have it look nice for use in the spring. Bidding on a side discharge plug now on ebay. Wheel prices looked like what you had said so it is probably best just to order two new ones and be done with it. :drunkie:

Thanks again for the information.

Rob
 

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2 stroke enthusiast
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6,568 Posts
Best luck I've had tweaking the steel deck's nose back in shape was by using a cresent wrench. Didn't take much pressure and there was little to no paint damage or creasing in the steel. Came out surprisingly well!
 

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robrike
Joined
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45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the tip Echoman. I will give that a try and see what happens. Great idea!

Rob


Best luck I've had tweaking the steel deck's nose back in shape was by using a cresent wrench. Didn't take much pressure and there was little to no paint damage or creasing in the steel. Came out surprisingly well!
 

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robrike
Joined
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45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Man!!! Every time I leave for home from my office ready to roll my mower out and get to work we get a darned storm. I am really anxious to try it out again. I need to find a vibra=tach locally or online. They are all over ebay. Perhaps this weekend if it rains I will take it into the garage and work on the nose of the deck with Echoman's tip. I got the side discharge plug to replace the mulch plug to see what kind of difference it would make. I have some really sparse whispy grass in areas of my yard that need something to grow there. The mower seems to blow the light stuff down and it totally misses the blade. Those areas are very rocky so getting something to grow will require fill dirt and grass seed. Probably a dump truck worth. I should post some photos of the area somewhere and get some suggestions.

For someone who will probably use a tach once a year will the vibra tach suffice?? I hate to dump tons of money into a digital as much as I want to. I thought about one of the hour meter/tachs that mount on the mower and even went to Northern Tool and got one but it did not work for 2 strokes. They took it back since I had not opened it up. Went online first to verify. :trink40: Right now I just run it by ear and usually run about a little over 1/2 throttle to be safe till I can verify the rpm's. I guess I will need the tach anytime I change a gov spring or mess with the carb too much. Vibra tach good enough????

Thanks,
Rob
 

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Registered
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2,534 Posts
For someone who will probably use a tach once a year will the vibra tach suffice?? I hate to dump tons of money into a digital as much as I want to. I thought about one of the hour meter/tachs that mount on the mower and even went to Northern Tool and got one but it did not work for 2 strokes. They took it back since I had not opened it up. Went online first to verify. :trink40: Right now I just run it by ear and usually run about a little over 1/2 throttle to be safe till I can verify the rpm's. I guess I will need the tach anytime I change a gov spring or mess with the carb too much. Vibra tach good enough????

Thanks,
Rob
I have a Vibra Tach and was leary about it at first. Now that I've used it it's very easy to just hold it down on the shroud and take a reading. I like mine and would buy another if I needed to.
 

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robrike
Joined
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45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well that settles it, Vibra Tach is what I will get. I did indeed get to mow tonight and the mower was flawless. I ran it a little slow in the sparser grass but in the back it was really tall and thick. I had the side discharge plate on rather than the mulch plate and there were times it would slow but never really bog down. In those spots I ran it close to wide open. Ran great but used a bunch of gas this go round since it was so tall so I guess the gov was working and really opening up the throttle there. Used the last of my Opti 2 and will now run Stihl HP Ultra with an ounce of MMO. I was very pleased with the Opti 2's performance. I am just trying different brands now. Thought I might want a full synthetic.

Only issue other than dialing in rpm's is that when on a bank leaning left it tends to slow in speed even with the tank full and when on leaning right it speeds up a touch. Everything else is so perfect with no surge other than a minute or two warming up which seems to be the norm. Of course it is a steep incline, 30 degrees + at times. Might be fuel starvation from tank even when close to full.

Off to order the vibra tach. Thanks for the info.

Rob
 
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