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Discussion Starter #1
Well i got it today, put it on as soon as i got home with no problems at all. All your pictures allowed me to do it without hesitation:thanku: Looks to be in good shape and worth the trip and money. It came with the original owners manual and the original receipt form when the first owner bought it. Which was very interesting i thought. For the snow thrower, weights and chains bought new on November 14, 1987 it came to a total of $1,046.56. I sure cant wait till the snow starts flying!! :drunkie:





 

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Congrats!! You'll sleep better now. With that first snowfall your going to find yourself doing everybody's sidewalk and driveway! Have fun!!
 

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Great looking set-up. It won't be long before the white stuff sticks.

I am the 2nd owner of a 1987 JD 214 and have all the original bill of sales. It's really interesting to see how much things cost new almost 25 years ago. Comparatively this stuff really holds it value.

Here is the break down from the original bill of sale on my snow thrower and accessories for the 214 new in 1998:

snow thrower - $600.00
rod for thrower - $40.00
wheel weights 2 - $65.00
chain set - $60.00
belt $20.00
belt $15.00
Labor $60.00

for a grand total of $860.00
 

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Looks really nice! Good idea to test-put it on when the weather is still nice, that was something I didn't do and wound up freezing my behind off on the garage floor... Note that there IS a grease zerk on the belt shaft there, you'll wanna make sure you grease it up.... So DID you get the weights with it? Or just the mounting bolts?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yup got the weights. I got the chains too, but didnt feel like putting them on now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I now would like some advice on what i should do to make sure my tractor is ready to run in the cold of winter...this is my first time running a lawn tractor during the winter.
 

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Great pictures they will help me a lot !!
How easy does it lift and steer
It amazes me how the belt can make that twist without breaking but they must !!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The lift is good, pretty easy, but i have a problem with it locking once i pull it all the way up ( i have a few ideas). Steering you can get a work out with, but when you have the weights in the back it seems to make it a little better. And for the belt it didnt seem to twist as much as it seemed like in the pictures.
 

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Well do you still use the numbers to set the lift or just go to 4 ?
Also ( may have to ask Herd ) I am ***-u-me-ing the lift assist bracket and spring have to come off to fit the brace on.
I could use another pic of the right assist detail ( shock absorber looking thing ), as to how it mounts @ bottom.
I got a new tensioner rod for the spring on the mule drive but it is only maybe 6 " long the one in you pick looks longer ??
 

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Discussion Starter #10
For right now im using the numbers to hold it up off the ground while i travel, but i believe once i get this locking thing fixed you can set the lift with the numbers. My tractor had no lift assist bracket and spring when i bought it so thats not a problem. and i am planning on taking the blower off in the next couple days and i will take more pics for you and i will measure the tensioner rod i have. Just keep an eye out for this thread to update.
 

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I now would like some advice on what i should do to make sure my tractor is ready to run in the cold of winter...this is my first time running a lawn tractor during the winter.
That's easy-
Spark Plug and Oil in the Fall. Look at the Air filter or just R&R the unit to be certain.
(As an aside - I've learned that cleaning (how vigorous you are scrubbin' it) some Air Filters can make larger holes in the material and thus let in larger particles-I just chuck 'em now)
Check the fluids in your transaxle. Anything else you don't want to fix at 5 am sitting in the snow? Do it now.

I always run Premium fuel in all my small engines and just say "NO" to stabilizer. Cheap gas has more alcohol in it. Alcohol is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air) which could contribute to gas line freezes.

Don't forget the chains. If you haven't done them before, read the instructions and they won't come off in 3 tire revolutions (experience speaks). They shouldn't need any lube. -Just sayin'

I leave my machine in an unheated circus tent-(one of the canvas + pipe tents). I also use salted sand so I'm not big on heated garages (which is a whole other controversy) and since it's not heated I stress test the battery about a month before any snow starts and I keep my external starter battery charged just in case. If the battery shows any sign of weakness chuck it. Better changing batteries at 60deg than at -10.
If there's a grease fitting use it. On the machine or on your blower.

I have an 80' drive way with a 8 car parking area that has got to be snow free no matter what. And yes, when using a walk behind snowblower I've had to shovel it by hand(stupid POS). I was praying for a heart attack so I could be done with it. Now with the JD and it's blade, I'm just lovin' it, you will too. This (equipment) changes everything. :fing32:

That's what I do. I think I've made every mistake there is:fing20: so take it for what it's worth.

AS a late note - be careful at the end of the drive way. There's always at least one story in the news about LawnTractor vs State Truck each year.
 

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That's easy-
Spark Plug and Oil in the Fall. Look at the Air filter or just R&R the unit to be certain.
(As an aside - I've learned that cleaning (how vigorous you are scrubbin' it) some Air Filters can make larger holes in the material and thus let in larger particles-I just chuck 'em now)
Check the fluids in your transaxle. Anything else you don't want to fix at 5 am sitting in the snow? Do it now.

I always run Premium fuel in all my small engines and just say "NO" to stabilizer. Cheap gas has more alcohol in it. Alcohol is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air) which could contribute to gas line freezes.

Don't forget the chains. If you haven't done them before, read the instructions and they won't come off in 3 tire revolutions (experience speaks). They shouldn't need any lube. -Just sayin'

I leave my machine in an unheated circus tent-(one of the canvas + pipe tents). I also use salted sand so I'm not big on heated garages (which is a whole other controversy) and since it's not heated I stress test the battery about a month before any snow starts and I keep my external starter battery charged just in case. If the battery shows any sign of weakness chuck it. Better changing batteries at 60deg than at -10.
If there's a grease fitting use it. On the machine or on your blower.

I have an 80' drive way with a 8 car parking area that has got to be snow free no matter what. And yes, when using a walk behind snowblower I've had to shovel it by hand(stupid POS). I was praying for a heart attack so I could be done with it. Now with the JD and it's blade, I'm just lovin' it, you will too. This (equipment) changes everything. :fing32:

That's what I do. I think I've made every mistake there is:fing20: so take it for what it's worth.

AS a late note - be careful at the end of the drive way. There's always at least one story in the news about LawnTractor vs State Truck each year.
You put out some good information, all except for the stabil.

I'm 68 years old and have a bunch of stuff, lawn mowers, weedeaters, chainsaw, snowblowers, pressure washer etc. the usual stuff.

I can't remember taking a spark plug out of anything I have owned in at least the last 20 years, and probably quite a few years before that.

It has to be 30 years since I have bought a spark plug.

I put stabil in everything except my daily driver, never have had to work on any of my stuff, maybe mower blades or change oil, but never any running or starting problems.

Also I use the cheaper grade of gas with the stabil, I have a 96 Dodge pickup in the garage that runs just like a new one with 4 year old gas mixed in with a few gallons of 2 year old gas and a few gallons this spring mixed in also with stabil in it.
 

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Before the snow flies sand, paint and wax the chute to get rid of the rust and it will preform a lot better. It looks good for a 1987 model. slkpk
 

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More pics would be great especially with it off .
I see you live in NY, don't know how much snow you get but every snow blower I've ever owned gets at least 1 drift cutter .
I see there is a special one for this blower . I have to check with my dealer to see if it is still available.
There are also some good after market drift cutters like the Stladrill special that goes up and down too. Do a "search" if you want to know more.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The bottom bracket has 3 holes to adjust lift. Here are some pics of the lift assist:


 

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You will always need a good left arm for the lift. You can use the attachment height setting with the blower but I would not recommend it because of the weight of the blower. The height should be adjusted with the shoes on each side. Mower lift assist spring and bracket must be removed before installing the blower.

As for winter running: ensure you are using the recommended oil for the expected temperature range. I think the Kawis recommend 5W-30 for below freezing. That said I've always run 10W-30 year round. I have the commercial size cans of Pam cooking spray in my garage and I spray down the auger and chute before each use, especially if its heavy, wet snow. Sometimes reapply if necessary. Cuts down on clogging quite a bit.
 

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I would familiarize myself with where the shear bolt goes on your auger. Looking at your thrower from the front, it's on the right side of your auger. You might want to keep 5 or 6 on hand, and 2 wrenches that fit the bolt and nut. With your single stage thrower you'll find it throws the snow better the more snow it picks up. This is something you can experiment with as to how fast to go with the amount of snow.
 

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I had the same setup for a few months... ( mine was a 160, not 170, but same blower). I would make sure you have good 2 link chains on your tires. I tried it out in 2 inches of wet stuff without chains and it couldn't make it back up the slightest incline back to my driveway. Once the chains were on, it was fine. I sold mine because going up and down the gravel portion of my drive was too much for the setup... ( I have a very steep gravel hill)
It did fine on the relativly flat sections. You can't have too much weight on the rear end though. The more traction you can come up with the better.
In light snows, the snow never seemed to go anywhere except to flop out of the blower and drop in the next row over. But, in deeper snows, It really kicked it out and could blow it a good distance... so, lighter snows I'd genereally blow the snow straight ahead, and "reblow" the snow untill it was deep enought to get some serious distance from the blower, then I'd aim it at my neighbors drive way... :) Jk, - I think most single stage blowers have this same issue.
I blew a sheer bolt in the gravel It was easy to replace, but, I'd imagine that having 3 or 4 on hand might be a good idea. I was glad the bolt blew, as it was either that, or a large rock vs the auger...

On mine the lift assist helped, but it was still heavy, and when up the blower does not rest level, but, thats not important anyways.

When I sold mine, I drove it straight into a hard packed drift and blew the snow 20+ feet, seeing the snow fly sold the tractor in a hearbeat.
 

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Forward Look. :thanku: that was the link I was trying to tell him !!
The STLADRILLIZERS

It shouldn't be hard to have shear pins there are 5 or 6 holes to store spare pins right on the blower!! :fing20:

I have an asphalt driveway and never had to use a new shear pin in 20 years.
However the PO must have had gravel the way the inside of the blower is blasted and there were no extra pins and he had put a regular bolt in it's place :Stop::banghead3
 
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