[donbowman14]

is one better than the other? I see a lot of older machines with Type F (red), but seemingly all newer ones come with the JD hydro (amber) fluid. If I completely cleaned an old tranny out, what should I put back in? I've heard you aren't supposed to mix them, so if I went with JD hydro, I'd flush the fluid out of the rest of the system before I capped it and ran with it.

 

[biker3777]

It dosent make a lot of difference,JD Hydro I think is what owners use if they have a loader,I still use ATF,I think it is better at keeping seals soft.

 

[mrbeef]

What machine? Any new machines 425 and newer need Low Vis Hygard or the like.... older machines with the Sundstand 15U pump can use either Type F or Hy Gard.....

Since you have a 316 and a 445 I would go with Hygard and be good. Everyone complains about the cost of Hygard.... but last time I bought Type F I about passed out...

 

[donbowman14]

What machine? Any new machines 425 and newer need Low Vis Hygard or the like.... older machines with the Sundstand 15U pump can use either Type F or Hy Gard.....

Since you have a 316 and a 445 I would go with Hygard and be good. Everyone complains about the cost of Hygard.... but last time I bought Type F I about passed out...

It would be going into the 316. I figured on putting Hygard in, partially to simplify material usage, but wasn't sure if there was an advantage of either. Since it's hydro fluid and not changed that much, I don't see cost being a huge issue.

 

[donbowman14]

Biker and Kyle,

You guys know a lot, do you know how to separate the two halves (front and back) of the rear end on the 316 Kohler? I'm at a loss, I've got the 8 bolts out and need to replace gaskets, but I'll be darned if that thing is catching on itself somewhere inside the pumpkin. Again any help is much appreciated

-Don

 

[biker3777]

Don I have never been inside one of those.

 

[Smalljob]

I have never worked on a 316, but I think these are same as the 140 ( could be wrong). I assume you are talking about the rear and housing the differential. On the 140 you need to remove the axles first. I had the same issue. I assumed incorrectly that the differential was staying with the back half, but it comes out with the front half. I had taken all the btus out but it would only move a fraction of an inch. Then I read the manual and the first step is to remove the axles. Darn directions !

 

[mrbeef]

It would be going into the 316. I figured on putting Hygard in, partially to simplify material usage, but wasn't sure if there was an advantage of either. Since it's hydro fluid and not changed that much, I don't see cost being a huge issue.

Sounds like a plan low Vis Hygard all around and you are good to go. :thThumbsU

I have never worked on a 316, but I think these are same as the 140 ( could be wrong). I assume you are talking about the rear and housing the differential. On the 140 you need to remove the axles first. I had the same issue. I assumed incorrectly that the differential was staying with the back half, but it comes out with the front half. I had taken all the btus out but it would only move a fraction of an inch. Then I read the manual and the first step is to remove the axles. Darn directions !

Bill you are correct, I stumbled on this one time when I took a 317 rear end apart... Can't tell you how long I tried to use "the force" to separate he two parts...... :ROF

 

[mopar65pa]

I used Type F on my 300 when I first got it. The "free wheel" valves leaked until I changed over to the hydroguard. They haven't leaked since I changed over. :dunno:

I used Hydroguard now for all mine, no more type F.

 

[donbowman14]

smalljob was onto something with those things called directions and it just so happens I had a service manual. Of course I didn't bother to consult that first:fing32:, why would I, I'm a guy, directions, directions, what are those things you speak about:sidelaugh

So here are some photos, once unbolted, I just pulled them out, no need for a puller so at least that went well. But of course, like many of my homeowner projects, which start out small, this project grew legs too. Just wanted to replace the main gasket.....NOW I'll be doing the gaskets, cleaning everything up real good, re-greasing what needs re-greasing, getting new gaskets for the axles too, thought about getting new brake shoes and turning the drums, but then thought, I've never actually used the brakes, I live in Florida. So I'll just clean those too and re-assemble. Oh yeah, the photos

 

[donbowman14]

here are the other two photos and I checked the price of new brake shoes, yep, Deere prices are funny and I'm sticking with a cleaned up set of old ones:thThumbsU

 

[mrbeef]

And what is the most important thing in all those pictures.... LOOK HOW CLEAN THAT BENCH IS!!!!!!!

 

[donbowman14]

And what is the most important thing in all those pictures.... LOOK HOW CLEAN THAT BENCH IS!!!!!!!

:thThumbsU

 

[donbowman14]

ok fellas, I cut my very first gasket for the rear end, what type of RTV or other gasket maker material should I use if I plan on putting JD hygard back in? I remember ATF and some type of gasket maker didn't go well from a previous maintenance/repair job a few years ago on my truck:hide:

 

[mrbeef]

There is a black RTV that is recommended for high oil contact.. or some verbiage close to that... That is what I would use. A lot of time I just head to the auto parts store and stand and read in the aisle.... because 90% of the time the customer will know more than the folks behind the counter... they are good at punching the keyboard to find parts but when it comes to real world.... ehhhh... not so hot.

 

[donbowman14]

There is a black RTV that is recommended for high oil contact.. or some verbiage close to that... That is what I would use. A lot of time I just head to the auto parts store and stand and read in the aisle.... because 90% of the time the customer will know more than the folks behind the counter... they are good at punching the keyboard to find parts but when it comes to real world.... ehhhh... not so hot.

yeah, that goes with Deere dealerships too, that's why I love this site:fing32:

 

[crawler]

Look for something called the right stuff. It will not seep, ever. It might require pry bars and a small amount of c-4 to come off later.