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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's my other thread with some info on my current tractor and things I've done.

Anyways I got a a snowplow/dozer blade for free today. Looks like it will mount right up with a cpl bolts. Then maybe i can figure out a way to make a lifting mechanism to attach to the lift arm on the plow it self.













It needs some minor repair. I guess this pivots on wood blocks on each side I will replace them for now. Then later maybe I can change the wood for something long term.



Ok so today I replaced my SSI in my super 12 for the HET technology. (SEE my other thread)
Anyways its worked great and started Right up! Well it eventually just stops. I'm thinking its carb trouble even though it ran fine a week ago before ssi went out. I could get it to crank and run a few times after that but it eventually quit starting all together.
So i checked for spark and it was fine. Gas was in bottom of the carb bowl when i pressed the spring screw it flowed right out. Anyways I'm letting my battery charge tonight and I'll try to start it in the morning. If it doesn't start I'll probable take the carb off and clean it.
I for got to mention I had a bit of oil leak from the front of the engine below card. From what I could tell it either came out of the little rubber hose or the screw that was loose that the arm from the throttle pivots on. I tightened the screw up and it seems to have stopped.
Anyways here's a video of the engine when it stops running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8rqy_hjOi8
 

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That doesn't act like it is running out of fuel to me. The way it just up and quits it seems like it would be spark-related.

Weird. I'll have to check out the other thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That doesn't act like it is running out of fuel to me. The way it just up and quits it seems like it would be spark-related.

Weird. I'll have to check out the other thread.
Well maybe its because my battery was almost dead. I charged it real fast. I'm letting it charge overnight so maybe it will be better in the morning.
 

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OK, your replacement switch smoked because you were running the starter directly through it. The original switch has those heavy duty terminals because it was made to do so, but the replacement was not.
You can use a switch like the replacement you got, but you have to add a starter solenoid to take the heavy current drawn by the starter. A generic Ford solenoid works just fine. There are wiring diagrams I and others have posted here before to show you how to wire it up.

The fuel filter you have may not work with a gravity feed setup. If you can find one, you should probably add a fuel pump because it will work much better with one. The fuel tank is too low to gravity feed when you are climbing a hill. It would probably work OK on flat ground, with a low restriction fuel filter made for gravity feed systems. I'd just put a pump on it.

Is that coil a standard automotive coil, or is it one that has an internal resistor? Typical automotive coils are made to run on SIX volts DC, not twelve, and have a ballast resistor of some sort to drop the voltage while the engine is running so as not to overheat the coil. If you got it with the Overnight Solutions kit, I would assume it was an internal resistor coil, or if not they would have either supplied or called out the need for a ballast resistor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, your replacement switch smoked because you were running the starter directly through it. The original switch has those heavy duty terminals because it was made to do so, but the replacement was not.
You can use a switch like the replacement you got, but you have to add a starter solenoid to take the heavy current drawn by the starter. A generic Ford solenoid works just fine. There are wiring diagrams I and others have posted here before to show you how to wire it up.
Great! that makes perfect sense! So do you think I fried the switch for sure?

The fuel filter you have may not work with a gravity feed setup. If you can find one, you should probably add a fuel pump because it will work much better with one. The fuel tank is too low to gravity feed when you are climbing a hill. It would probably work OK on flat ground, with a low restriction fuel filter made for gravity feed systems. I'd just put a pump on it.
Ok Ill get a replacement tomorrow. And I have a fuel pump here in this pic will it work?


Is that coil a standard automotive coil, or is it one that has an internal resistor? Typical automotive coils are made to run on SIX volts DC, not twelve, and have a ballast resistor of some sort to drop the voltage while the engine is running so as not to overheat the coil. If you got it with the Overnight Solutions kit, I would assume it was an internal resistor coil, or if not they would have either supplied or called out the need for a ballast resistor.
It's the one that cam with the HET module from overnight solutions. Its a 12v system and doesn't require an external resistor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
OH YEA forgot to post my other goodie. I got this sprayer for 60 bucks today. It doesn't look used hardly. I don't know if i'll use it much either bu I may do something with it.
EDIT: according to this site its a $749 sprayer. wowzerz.



 

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I'm sure the switch is toast. Get another one and a solenoid and start over. :)

If that's an automotive pump (looks like), then no, I wouldn't use it. What you want is either the stock mechanical fuel pump if it was set up for one, or a pulse powered pump that uses the pressure pulsations in the crankcase to pump fuel, like a snowmobile might use.

Take a look on the side of the block below the carburetor, some Tecumsehs of that vintage had a spot for a little mechanical pump to bolt on. Here's where you'd look, my '68 has a mechanical pump:



My '69 has a pulse pump. I think it was originally mounted somewhere, not sure where. This is how I got it. It's that box behind the grill with the three hoses attached to it. The third hose is the pulse line.



I think that automotive pump would overwhelm the float and needle valve.

Nice score on the sprayer!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm sure the switch is toast. Get another one and a solenoid and start over. :)

If that's an automotive pump (looks like), then no, I wouldn't use it. What you want is either the stock mechanical fuel pump if it was set up for one, or a pulse powered pump that uses the pressure pulsations in the crankcase to pump fuel, like a snowmobile might use.

Take a look on the side of the block below the carburetor, some Tecumsehs of that vintage had a spot for a little mechanical pump to bolt on. Here's where you'd look, my '68 has a mechanical pump:



My '69 has a pulse pump. I think it was originally mounted somewhere, not sure where. This is how I got it. It's that box behind the grill with the three hoses attached to it. The third hose is the pulse line.



I think that automotive pump would overwhelm the float and needle valve.

Nice score on the sprayer!
Alright I guess I'll try to change the filter if I continue to have fuel problems. Thanks again!
 

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It needs some minor repair. I guess this pivots on wood blocks on each side I will replace them for now. Then later maybe I can change the wood for something long term.
Those wood blocks have probably been on there for quite a few years... and still look to be in good shape..... how much more long term do you want?:sidelaugh


LOL, Seriously though. looks like it will be an easy set up.. and you'll end up with a sweet little plow.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Those wood blocks have probably been on there for quite a few years... and still look to be in good shape..... how much more long term do you want?:sidelaugh


LOL, Seriously though. looks like it will be an easy set up.. and you'll end up with a sweet little plow.
haha yea I'm sure they have been there for sometime now!
 

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You could use a pair of 2 bolt pillow block bearings for a rugged ,long lasting replacement for the wood blocks on the plow frame pivot...

I've used a low pressure automotive electric fuel pump for forigen cars with carbs ,as long as its below 5 lbs pressure,the needle valves on small engines wont flood in most cases--cars carbs have practically the same size needle valves, and similar sized floats,so theres no reason you cant use one..(only bummer about them is you need 12V,if the battery dies,so does the fuel pump!)..just keep an eye on the oil level,if it appears to be rising or the oil smells like gas,then your getting gas in the oil,which means the carb is flooding...I used a 8 lb fuel pump on my 20 HP Kohler for years with no flooding troubles or oil dilution..but less pressure is better,you really need only 1-2 lbs for a small engine..the pulse type pumps can let gas into the crankcase if the diaphram fails too..so its a toss up as to which one works better..I like the fact the electric pumps prime the carb for faster starts,thats why I put one on my Kohler--otherwise I had to crank it for a long time,often till the battery died before gas got to the carb from the tank under the seat...I left the pulse pump intact and only turn on the electric one before I start it cold,or if it threatened to stall out under a load,the rest of the time I leave it off...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well turns out the carb just got dry the last time I ran it cause I was previously sitting on an incline cranking it.

Anyways I replaced the fuel filter with a gravity feed one. It's running great now! even made a few vids i'm uploading for my other thread on this tractor. So check my other thread for more pics of the wiring and other stuff I did today!

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=215677
 

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Glad you got it running.
For the plow looks like you got some options..... cut off braces and move them in to mount to axle, just make some type of spacers with what you got now, but also add some braes to mount on bottom axle tabs, or cut off middle mounts and move inward so it slides into mule drive slot.
 
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