Two issues as I winterize my mower

IMHO, unless the oil is really dirty, I would keep it in the engine and change it first thing next season. Since it's not going to be circulating in the engine while in storage, the old oil should be OK.
I lay my mower decks upside down, spray some cleaner -- 409 is what I use -- on the clay/mud and spray it with a hose. Let it sit and see if the soap/detergent will work on the crud. I then use a nozzle on the garden hose to "power-off" the crud. If it's too hardened, you may have to use a high pressure power washer, if you have access to one.
Otherwise, I guess you'll have to continue with a chisel or other "implements of destruction."
Jim
Webster Groves, MO
P S After posting this, I saw that Frank and KATT are suggesting esssentially the same thing for the clay!

Herd of Deeres said:

Whatever you decide to do about changing oil I've taken to writing the date of the oil change and other service on the underside of the hood with a sharpie. If I write it down somewhere else I always loose it.

Click to expand...

I'm doing the same thing on mine. Back to the OP, if that oil has more than 10-15 hours on it I would change it, as was said get the old with acid out not to mention there may be a little fuel in it.

Grasshopper67 said:

I have made my last cut and am getting my mower ready for winter storage. Two issues arise.

1) Oil change. Do I really need to change it before I store it if I don't use it for anything but mowing? How about just changing it before I put it back into service next Spring? Yes it is cheap to change it but why do I need to if I am not using it?

Click to expand...

I would leave in the old oil, unless you are storing it in a heated space, because if it is in the cold the crank case can condense vapor, and you will start next year with with water vapor in the oil.

Grasshopper67 said:

I have 30 hours on it since last oil change in April. The oil still looks decent, honey color. It only takes about 45 minutes to mow and I always cut in the evening hours when cooler. I may go ahead and just change the oil but not the filter.

Click to expand...

Why would you change the oil and not the filter? Don't make sense to me but it's your tractor so do what you want and enjoy doing it. Thats the most important part:trink40: slkpk

61woody said:

I'm doing the same thing on mine. Back to the OP, if that oil has more than 10-15 hours on it I would change it, as was said get the old with acid out not to mention there may be a little fuel in it.

Click to expand...

sadixon49 said:

I always change the oil in the fall, to get all the dirty oil out rather than let it sit all winter and have the crud settle out in the sump, then don't change the oil in the spring as it is unused oil.

steve

Click to expand...

Ditto to both! You don't want used oil, even with only 10 hours on it, to sit in the Engine all winter and let the dirt settle out into the crankcase. :fing32:

SWIGIN said:

Drain some old dirty oil into a container and let it sit all winter. Then in the spring dump it out and look at the snotty mess that settled on the bottom of your container.

I always drain old oil before something is going to sit for a month or more.

Click to expand...

That snot is called H2O.

While you are at it, put some new oil in another container and let it sit in the same fashion. If you put old or new oil in a sealed container, nothing will happen. Leave them both in an open container and get the same results.

Grasshopper67 said:

OK after reading your post I think I will go ahead and change it. It was a $4K lawn mower after all. One more thing, is there another brand filter I can use just for the winter storage. What is JD equivalent at Autozone or Wal-Mart? I have a x320 with a 22hp Kawasaki.

Click to expand...

I hope you are storing it inside a heated building, if not I would change the oil again in the spring, because your engine is not that sealed plastic bottle that you poured the oil from.