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Discussion Starter #1
Hello to All, I have the 122 with manual 3 speed. I have just purchased a 125 rolling chassis (without the engine). I want to replace the manual 3 speed from the 122. Nothing wrong with it just want the ease of using the tractor with the FEL. The 125 is a narrow frame, just like the 122. Looks like a very easy and simple swap. I have already removed the hydro from the 125. It looks excellent. Is there anything that you guys would change in the hydro while I have it out? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated...

Thank you,
Don
 

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You might want to swap the dash towers.It will save you alot of headaches when it comes time to put the hydro control and linkages in your 122.
 

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I have done this,but not on this model. One my swap, the cross shaft that operates the clutch had a diferent bracket than the Hydro. I changed the shafts-PITA. Would have been easier to cut the bracket off the hydro cross shaft and weld it on the stick shift shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I intend to put a foot control for the hydro on the 122. I don't want to control the hydro with the hand control like the 125 does. I will need to setup some new linkage. Is there anything I should change out or look into for the hydro since I have it out?

Thanks,
Don
 

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Look for slop in the linkage, any obvious leaks, and change the filter and hy-tran.7 quarts I beleive. If you are going to modify the linkage as you say, you may not have to be concerned with the present linkage,
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Slop looks minor at best. I will remove all the 125's linkage to have on hand. The back panel where the hitch mounts had a leak at the bottom of the casing, usual spot for leaks. The fluid was about 25% full. I tightnened all the bolts and filled with fluid. No leaks, the casing has been filled for a week... I have done a bench test to see of the pump is working. It certainly is building pressure, but system has air bubbles in it. I have been testing it with a hand drill for a couple days. My feeling is that the drill does not have the ability to spin the pump at the required rate to free the system of bubbles... Lots of air bubbles visible thru the top casing cover... I have attempted to reiieve the bubbles with the bleeding valve at the top of the casing with the cover on, of course. Lots of pressure and bubbles coming out at the bleeding valve. But at this time, the wheels are not turning. I intend to continue to bleed the system, untill the wheels turn... Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated...

Thank you,
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thinking about it overnite, I feel the drill is only spinning at about idle speed as the engine. Like a heating system that gets vapour lock, no circulation. She won't spin till free of bubbles. But anyone that has had this issue have any thoughts would be great. Any thoughts about spinning at this slow rate with the drill?...

Thank you,
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The pump is certainly pushing pressure. But still no wheel turn. I am doing this with the axle up on a wooden block. Perhaps the tires not being on the ground is causing them to not spin? I move the linkage as I spin the driveshaft thinking it may loosen bubbles... I am most certain it is vapour lock though... Has anyone come accross this before? Any thoughts would be "GREATLY" appreciated...

Thanks
 
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