Maybe he accidentally pulled it out and turned at the sametime... I had one that did that, and I had to turn the inside peice with a screw driver till the little ears intheir lined back up with the openning for the key to go into....worst case you just need a new ignition...
Trying to be a nice guy. Sigh. Key troubles.
Gave some tractor rides to some kids -- let the first kid turn the key to start the Roper. Turns out he turned it way too much and now it's stripped or something. The whole barrel turns. Can't get the key in anymore. I suppose I can buy a toggle or a button and just replace the key if I can't figure out what's wrong. Any guesses?
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Ignition switches are not too expensive, but they do come in different configurations. It's pretty easy to figure out if you have some basic electrical knowledge. Post up the model and serial numbers and maybe a photo of the machine so the other guys can get an idea of what your looking at. I don't know if you can source parts from Sears any more but that's the only guess I have. Good luck!:trink39:
Try NAPA for the switch, but make sure you order the correct one.
FYI...the latest project in my garage came in because it kept blowing fuses. The previous owner had replaced teh ignition switch for some reason. Switch was the incorrect one. Whenever the switch left the 'off' position, it went right to ground, blowing the fuse.
Try turning the barrel around another 1/2 turn, it might line up correctly for the key.
Got the correct switch info from the internet, ordered one from NAPA, came in next day. Only problem was, it came with no keys at all. Keys arrived the next day. Mowed the lawn that day. Success for less than $20.
FYI...the latest project in my garage came in because it kept blowing fuses. The previous owner had replaced teh ignition switch for some reason. Switch was the incorrect one. Whenever the switch left the 'off' position, it went right to ground, blowing the fuse.
Try turning the barrel around another 1/2 turn, it might line up correctly for the key.
Got the correct switch info from the internet, ordered one from NAPA, came in next day. Only problem was, it came with no keys at all. Keys arrived the next day. Mowed the lawn that day. Success for less than $20.
No good deed goes unpunished! :fing20:Gave some tractor rides to some kids -- let the first kid turn the key to start the Roper. Turns out he turned it way too much and now it's stripped or something. The whole barrel turns. Can't get the key in anymore.
My key switch was failing just as I was getting it working. I ended up replacing it - it cost about $15 with tax at a local outdoor power equipment. Took about 10 minutes to replace...
:ditto: keyswitches are generally inexpensive and easy to install
I just bought one saturday for my SS16 at Tractor supply- like $13.50
Key switch
Exact replacement, with 2 keys
Key switch
Exact replacement, with 2 keys
Thanks for the feedback. I managed to stick a screwdriver in and it started fine -- wouldn't shut off (till I choked it), so I think you're right -- I just need a new keyswitch.
GT 80, I had that switch in my hand at tractor supply tonite, but I hadn't removed the old one yet and wasn't sure it was the right thing. It is a 5 wire, but they had two different ones. My number is std (ha ha) 365402
If the motor has an automotive type coil then it's 12 volt power to run.GT 80, I had that switch in my hand at tractor supply tonite, but I hadn't removed the old one yet and wasn't sure it was the right thing. It is a 5 wire, but they had two different ones. My number is std (ha ha) 365402
If the motor has a Magneto then it's open to run, and short to ground to kill the spark and stop the engine.
So you probably need a switch that includes an isolated closed contact when the key is in the off position. Connect one side to ground the other side to the wire coming from the Magneto. That will short the Magneto to ground when you turn the key off.
The rest of the switch is just 12 volt stuff.
As long as it is a briggs or onan with a standard gear starter it is the one I listed. The older ones with S/G had a different switch with two big terminals that the juice went through to spin the s/g- all others that I have seen use a solenoid, and thus use the 5 prong standard ignition. Oatville is right about the grounding thing
It's a Kohler 18 horizontal twin. My tractor is actually a Roper (1989), but they, of course, made Craftsman back then.
Wonder if Sears/Parts direct would have that switch, using the specific numbers from the tractor. Then taking the 'Craftsman part number', you could cross reference it thru NAPA, TSC, or any other local shop.
The previous owner of one of my Craftsmans bought a new 'replacement' ignition switch. Installed it, it kept on blowing fuses. He gave up. I looked up the number on Parts Direct, purchaed it at NAPA (on the shelf), mowed the lawn that afternoon. Both switches were 5 prong but different internals.
The previous owner of one of my Craftsmans bought a new 'replacement' ignition switch. Installed it, it kept on blowing fuses. He gave up. I looked up the number on Parts Direct, purchaed it at NAPA (on the shelf), mowed the lawn that afternoon. Both switches were 5 prong but different internals.
Let's put this thread (perhaps the most scintillating thread of all time) to bed. Went to my LTS (local tractor shop) and the proprieter was out so I went to the local JD dealer (w/ trepidation). So they cross-listed the Craftsman number I had (for the Roper) and found a matching JD part for $2.00 CHEAPER than the Tractor Supply price. Starts right up. Thanks for the help -- next time I'll start it myself.
I was dissappointed... this ignition switch is different... It will allow the tractor to crank over,and have power to the lights, but no spark... I sanded the terminals on my old one down, and got it back together, working fine. :fing20:I just bought one saturday for my SS16 at Tractor supply- like $13.50
Key switch
Exact replacement, with 2 keys
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