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I just looked at my Junior today, and its serial number is M23993, so it's about a June 1983 model. I just wish it wasn't such a pile. It was left outside with the wheels locked in the drive position. Needless to say, they are rusted solid to the axle. I need to cut them off. They won't break free, believe me. I've tried eveything. That, and the engine needs rebuilt. Does anyone have any suggestions where to get a rebild kit for a Tecumseh H35?
 

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I have compiled a list of Troy-Bilt tiller serial numbers and thier respective years of manufacture. This list includes data for the Horse I, II, III, and Operator Presence Control (O.P.C., Horse IV) up through the end of 1992.

It also contains data for the Pony tillers from 1976 though the middle of 1983 and the Junior tiller from the middle of 1981 through the middle of 1983.

This list was compiled from several sources and I cannot verify nor attest to the accuracy.

While I am sure that this list is helpful, it is not complete. If anyone has more information or finds errors, let me know. We will consider this list to be a work in progress.
Help me, Help me!! Hi guys,I have a horse tiller with serial #597828. I can't find the model # on the machine.Can I assume it is a horse II ? Thanks!!
 

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I have to Troy-Bilt tillers. The number off of the frame next to The Handlebar is as follows.
530429 the number on the other tiller is 104947. Can anyone please help me determine what year the these tillers are
 

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I have compiled a list of Troy-Bilt tiller serial numbers and thier respective years of manufacture. This list includes data for the Horse I, II, III, and Operator Presence Control (O.P.C., Horse IV) up through the end of 1992.

It also contains data for the Pony tillers from 1976 though the middle of 1983 and the Junior tiller from the middle of 1981 through the middle of 1983.

This list was compiled from several sources and I cannot verify nor attest to the accuracy.

While I am sure that this list is helpful, it is not complete. If anyone has more information or finds errors, let me know. We will consider this list to be a work in progress.
Great Job!! Thank you! My serial number indicates that it's Manufacture date is April 1978, right after the Feb 1978 Four Speed Production started. However, my tiller is a two speed model that has the twin belts. So, what do I have, Horse 1 or Horse 2??
 

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Could you post your s/n number?
SN # 320574 I've owned the tiller about a year and half and used it very little. I didn't get a manual so I have been feeding on the information I can find on the internet. I think I hit the jackpot here on this site. My biggest fear is tearing something up because I operated it improperly. After some thought about the tiller being a Horse 1 with 2 speeds when the serial number indicates it's a Horse 2 with 4 speeds, I woke up today with a thought about looking closely at the dual belt pulleys. I removed the belts and I'm embarrassed to say the pulleys are stepped and it does have the 2 belt speeds and 2 gear ranges, so it is a four speed. Somewhere along the line, the previous owner(s) put a belt on each step of the pulleys. I put a single belt back on and tested the speeds and found the high/high gear is very fast! The tiller worked great. Was actually hoping to find a little slower tiller speed. It seems the low belt speed was prevalent when belts were on each pulley step at the same time. The weird thing is you'd have thought there would have been at least a squealing noise or belt burning smell? Anyway, thanks for the efforts to help me and hope I didn't cause too many problems.
 

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I have compiled a list of Troy-Bilt tiller serial numbers and thier respective years of manufacture. This list includes data for the Horse I, II, III, and Operator Presence Control (O.P.C., Horse IV) up through the end of 1992.

It also contains data for the Pony tillers from 1976 though the middle of 1983 and the Junior tiller from the middle of 1981 through the middle of 1983.

This list was compiled from several sources and I cannot verify nor attest to the accuracy.

While I am sure that this list is helpful, it is not complete. If anyone has more information or finds errors, let me know. We will consider this list to be a work in progress.
I just got horse from your list I can tail it’s mid to late 70s but my serial number was not on there 778 548 I’m trying to find more abt it I’m wanting to restore it thanks in advance
 

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Mark,---IF you use the slow speed section of the 4 speed they are quite slow and yes IF on high side and in high gear they walk the dog,---I cant use the high side anymore---gittin to **** old to run that fast!
I think the high side was for pushing snow with the optional blade.
 

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Mark,---IF you use the slow speed section of the 4 speed they are quite slow and yes IF on high side and in high gear they walk the dog,---I cant use the high side anymore---gittin to **** old to run that fast!
I think the high side was for pushing snow with the optional blade.
Hi Sonny, I till in very black central IL soil. Super soft in the spring, super hard in the summer. I haven't checked the numbers on the engine yet but it looks to have a relatively new 6.5 HP Briggs that has replaced something that may have been originally bigger, I don't know. I seems like it could use more power. That's why I had hopes that when I found the extra belt on it, that when corrected, it would operate (move forward) a little slower. Weirdly, the slow belt speed was in control when it incorrectly had belts on both sets of pulleys at the same time. The high/high speed does scoot right a long but that's nothing compared to how fast it will go if the tines stop tilling and drive it forward. I've had a couple of times where I chased it and got it thrown out of gear just before it went into a fence. I saw somewhere that someone else thought there should be some kind of kill switch or something to throw it out of gear if it gets away from the operator. I agree. Couldn't see what high/high would be used for other than traveling a distance. I can't imagine tilling at that rate, maybe your right about the snow plowing, but snowplowing with the tines turning? I'm kind of wondering if some of my power issue is my tines may need replaced. Something I'll have to research, hopefully I can find answers on this forum.
 

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When using the blade on 2-speed models you have to remove the tine holders!---just slip them off the axles, ( I would never use tiller for snow) On the 4 speed the tines would be in neutral and not turning and also you take the tiller unit off by removing the 2 bolts at the rear of power unit.
The newer ones have the kill handles on them and are a royal pain but they did start putting them on there. I have 3 or 4 that dont have kill switches. --the 4 newer ones have switches on them . On my little tuffy model the handle that you hold up for the clutch belt has to be held up all the time or tines stop----motor keeps running but tines stop --- that works good.
PS: I am in central IL too so I know bout the hard dirt!! LOL!!
 

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You make a lot of sense disabling or removing the tiller tines when pushing snow. It's not something I want to pursue either. Like most of us today, I use a snowblower. But back in the day, I can see where the multiple purposes made tillers more valuable and useful. You bring up something I must not be aware of, or my tiller is not capable of. I recently discovered that my tiller is indeed a 4 speed (2 belt speeds with 2 gear driven speeds) but I don’t know how to engage the drive without the tines being engaged as well. I can engage the tines without wheel drive (leaving the gear in neutral and engaging Forward). My wife sees the tines turning when I'm walking behind the tiller as I go from the shed to the garden and vice versa and keeps telling me how unsafe that is. It really bothers her to see me using reverse and the tines are turning then too. She’s 100% right, it would be much safer to disengage the tines but I don’t see how while the wheel drive is operating. I don't think it's possible on my tiller. FYI: My tiller does not have the removable two bolt tine attachment. The tine unit is a part of the case.

To stop the tiller if the tiller gets away from me, I’m not sure how to do it yet, but maybe a pull cord that I clip to my belt loop that simply kills the engine if it gets away from me.

PS. I just bought a small pump to get the water out of the low corner of my garden. Last year we waited till Mother's day to till and plant, just in time for whole garden to be submerged in water for days. If the weather man put a financial guarantee on his predictions we might be able to help IL out of debt!
 

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IF you have an actual 4 speed, the tine clutch lever is down on the left side of the transmission area. --- IF your tine unit don't have the 2 bolts holding the tine unit on ---then it cant be a 4 speed. --- I am sure that all 4 speeds have the split section. ---UNLESS the real early ones didn't. --- Hard for me to say without seeing the tiller! --Look for the little lever to shift the tines out!--let me know! ----- on 4 speed you have the big 2 levers up by the handles, and the little short guy down on the left just ahead of the tine shield. --- ALSO,---- I think all 4 speed models had the safety switches on them.
 

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Hi Sonny, My tiller does not have the tine engagement lever lever nor does it have the two bolts holding the tine unit to the transmission case. I've seen pictures now of both in the (wrong) manual. Mine also does not have the dipstick on the tine attachment unit either. I looked for it after reading and seeing pictures in the (wrong) manual. Now looking at the correct manual, it appears all is as it should be. According to the Serial number data base posted earlier in this thread, my serial number indicates that it's Manufacture date is April 1978, right after the Feb 1978 Four Speed Production started, probably qualifying it as an early production 4 speed model. Although the engine is not original, I doubt someone would have changed both sets of pulleys in an attempt to make it into a 4 speed and then put belts on both pulley steps.
If it ever had the safety switch on it, there's no evidence of it now. Barring a cheaper, easier idea, i'm thinking of installing a pull switch on the ignition shut-off circuit as a safety if the tiller would ever "out distance" me. Although that's not happened this year because I think I'm better at feeling when it might leap. And my initial tilling passes have been using more conservative, progressive depth settings. Being too aggressive last year in a garden that hadn't been tilled for several months was probably the biggest reason it would take off.
 

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Hello, I have a Troy Bilt horse from the early 80's and I'm looking for a new forward/reverse level for it. The one that's on my tiller just bends when I pull up on it to move it to neutral from the forward position. It looks like the original part number is 1134A but I've not been able to find a replacement so far. I've seen the new MTD part (647-04006) but it won't fit my tiller as it bolts differently to the tiller. See picture of how the level on my tiller mounts at this link: .
 
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