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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have a page that they can send to me or post it in here on how to do this. The unit was just rebuilt when the engine was done so I am thinging voltage regulator?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't think it is charging. If I turn the head and tail lights on I see a -10 on the amp meter. Turn them off and the needle goes back to 0.
 

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The Magnificent
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It's entirely possible the regulator is the problem, but I would recommend you verify your wiring and ignition switch first. Regulators are pricey and if your wiring has a problem, easy to fry.

These are also sensitive to poor grounds, btw.
 

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i.d be looking at the regulator .seems they don,t like to work on these older tractors.tap the cover with a plastic driver handle see if it changes to charge.with the engine rpm,s up away.s. some times they stick.
 

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The way I tested my SG was that I starter the tractor, then un-hooked both wires on the SG, so if the problem was them shorting somewhere, it wouldn't interfere with testing the SG. I then run a wire from the F terminal on the SG to ground (where the smaller wire goes), then hooked my test light between ground, and the other terminal on the SG (where the heavier wire goes). The test light should light up, if not, the SG is bad. If it does, your problem is probably the regulator, but possibly a bad wire or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Tom. I followed the instructions in the pages that I copied and the regulator is the culprit. All my wiring is good because I replaced it all. Your way worked for you but a test lite only tells you got volts it does not tell how many however. Thanks to everyone for all your help. Happy New Year
 

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When my 1053 wasn't charging right, it would charge great, then not at all, so I knew if I was getting any voltage my SG was good. My problem ended up being both, the SG was shorting out inside and not giving out any voltage, and the contacts in the regulator needed cleaned and adjusted.
 
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