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Trouble Getting Spark

1755 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Down South
1958 Ford Powermaster--Gas
I have completly converted my tractor over to a 12V system and it ran great for a while however it will not start but it does turn over.. Could it be the coil? I'm not to sure because I upgraded everything at the same time including the coil, plugs, wires, electric ignition, and the alternator... If its the coil what would cause it to go bad so quick....
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If it does not turn over I would suspect the starter solenoid. Was this converted to 12 volt also?
It will crank but not turn over.. The starter was not converted to a 12V.
A couple things come to mind.

1: Since you converted it to 12 volts, I'm guessing that it normally was 6 volts with a POSITIVE ground. Does it still have POSITIVE ground with the 12 volt set up? Chances are is that you may have the coil hooked up backwards. On a NEGATIVE gound, the power wire is connected to the + on the coil, and the points are connected to the - on the coil. On POSITIVE ground, the power wire is connected to the - on the coil, and the points are connected to the + on the coil.

2: I'm not sure exactly what was all rewired or whatever, but do you have some kind of resistor for the points? Or is it getting a constant 12 volts. Points only get BATT voltage at cranking, then they get roughly half the voltage through a resistor wire or resistor block while running.

PS, if the starter has permanent magnets inside, you'll have to stay with a POSITIVE ground on the tractor. If it has an electric magnet, then you can convert the tractor to NEGATIVE ground. The starter will still spin the right way.
Redstag, sorry about my misunderstanding about "turn over", I read your original post wrong.

If it worked for a while and then quit, then I agree, probably the coil. Check to see if it requires an external resister or it's built in. It should say on the new 12v coil.
Since your tractor became the "sticky" for the 6v to 12v conversion, also check all your wiring to see if a connection came loose.
When you did the 12v conversion did you also up grade to a 12volt coil that does not need a risister? If you up graded the coil is your risister still in line?

Take a test light, turn the key on and see if you have power to the coil, then to the post on the dizzy, then pull the cap and don't loose that little spring clamp that's under the rotor and test at the points.

I upgraded to a 12V coil when i switched things over and I also installed an electric ignition so I don't have to worry about points anymore.. I tested the coil and it is receiving power however when I turn it over the one side does not pulsate like it should..
Could this be something with the electric ignition I installed? Or something else?
I don't know how to test these electronic ign's. Get there advice.
Did you use a coil they recommended?

Coils can be tricky, on what is really a 12v or not, whether it has or needs a resistor.
I have added resistors to vehicles to prevent early failure of point.

Reverse polarity isn't good and fatal to electronics.

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