My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My Cub 124 is all original except for the battery and although it can pull 10 times it's own weight with just turf tires, it is starting to show it's age. I was backing up a trailer uphill that was over 2 tons and the shifter kept slipping out of reverse. It only did this in reverse and never in 1st. So I know I need to remove the shifter cover and inspect the shifter fork but I was wondering if anyone knows the exact procedure to fix this problem, has a link to detailed instructions, or better yet, has a link to a video showing the removal of the shifter? I know there is google and youtube but surfing those sites for the exact info I need often takes the better part of an afternoon and I really can't stand sitting infront of a computer if it can be avoided. I'm not very fond of computers and sitting for long periods of time just upsets my disc problems. I just don't want to create more work for myself by removing anything I don't need to to access the damaged parts. Any insight would be appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I know there are some really knowledgeable guys on here with tons of Cub experience and I find it hard to believe that nobody has anything helpful to say out of the 104 people that have viewed this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,945 Posts
I have had quite a few, and have never had one pop out of gear! :dunno:

I have had several break the shifter from the cup, and require re-welding.

That 12HP is almost 0 load, compared to the original intent of that transmission, so not many show any wear.

I guess you need to look into the trans a little more, and post some pics of what you find. :fing32:

It is only a few bolts to remove. :bannana:

Any real problem, a complete replacement is the easiest fix. Cheap, too!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I guess you need to look into the trans a little more, and post some pics of what you find.
That was part of my question on what is needed to be removed to access the trans cover. I could just start unbolting everything but like I said, I don't want to remove something that is not required in order to gain access to the trans cover. I would like to know what is the best way to remove the parts which are covering the trans and if anyone knows of a video or diagram showing the workings of the shifter inside the trans once I get inside there?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,945 Posts
I have never worked on a NF, only WF's.

Everybody says pull the transaxle, that is the easiest route.

My last two, I took the trans out.

Once the trans is out, taking the cover off the trans is easier than changing the oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I have never worked on a NF, only WF's.

Everybody says pull the transaxle, that is the easiest route.

My last two, I took the trans out.

Once the trans is out, taking the cover off the trans is easier than changing the oil.
I don't think you are picking up what I'm laying down. I don't need advice on how to open the top plate of the transmission seeing as how it's just the simple act of removing eight bolts. What I'm asking is what is the quickest way to remove all the body parts in the way of accessing the transaxle top cover? Do the fenders, panel under the seat, and the seat itself get removed as one whole unit? I was asking if anyone had details or a video showing the entire process to GET TO the trans. and once inside what item would most likely be causing it to pop out of gear?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
300 Posts
I'm not familiar with this particular model, but generally a gear-type transmission popping out of gear is either poorly adjusted or bent shift linkage causing the gear not to be completely meshed (probably not an issue here), or a bad reverse gear shaft bearing. Automotive or lawn tractors use a separate shaft that holds the reverse gear. If the bearings at the end of the shaft are worn, the gear will not mesh with the mainshaft gear causing it to pop out of gear. Another cause could be a broken tooth on the reverse gear. My neighbor once tried backing up a hill with a trailer full of firewood attached. Reverse gear on any lawn tractor isn't designed for much loading, only to move the weight of the tractor and operator. Adding a few hundred additional pounds of load to move caused two teeth to break off the reverse gear. Trans rebuild time!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Doesn't it seem like a poor design if reverse isn't meant for any more weight than that of the driver and tractor itself? So if you are pulling a heavy wagon and need to back up what are you suppose to do, unhook it and move it by hand?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,945 Posts
Doesn't it seem like a poor design if reverse isn't meant for any more weight than that of the driver and tractor itself? So if you are pulling a heavy wagon and need to back up what are you suppose to do, unhook it and move it by hand?
Sounds like you need to try a different color tractor. :dunno:

Maybe one of them can back up 4,000 pounds better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
300 Posts
Doesn't it seem like a poor design if reverse isn't meant for any more weight than that of the driver and tractor itself? So if you are pulling a heavy wagon and need to back up what are you suppose to do, unhook it and move it by hand?
Not to state the obvious, but lawn tractors are made to mow the lawn, some to plow snow or push small amounts of material while going forward (and properly equipped). Pushing loads backward is not a typical mode, especially for a gear transmission-equipped unit.
 

·
Collector of many tractors
Joined
·
15,274 Posts
I would say that it's not going all the way into gear or you have a bad bearing on one shaft and thats letting the shaft move and then the gear will walk out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
If I remember correctly a 124 has a 1 pice fenderdeck.
There will be aprox 4 bolts under the seat that needs removed, and there will be some on the footrests that need removing.
After that the fenderdeck should lift off the tractor giving open access to the shift lever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Sounds like you need to try a different color tractor. :dunno:

Maybe one of them can back up 4,000 pounds better.
That's got to be a joke, right? Most every garden tractor equal in size to a Cub Cadet Narrow Frame pales in comparison when talking about transmission strength. If it were something like a John Deere, the trans would have probably grenaded trying to attempt half that weight. I know, I've seen many JD garden tractors of all ages with junk transmissions and these are some of the most popular tractors out there.
This issue is not something that happens too often on these old tanks.
Yes, I know this post is old as sin but I still haven't fixed the problem because it still hauls like a tank and the issue is not that much concern. I'll open it up some day but I have many tractors of "Different Colors" that require much more attention than this one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Not to state the obvious, but lawn tractors are made to mow the lawn, some to plow snow or push small amounts of material while going forward (and properly equipped). Pushing loads backward is not a typical mode, especially for a gear transmission-equipped unit.
If it were a "Lawn Tractor" then I wouldn't be hauling loads the size that I am. Seeing as how this is an International Harvester Cub Cadet made between 1961 and 1981, it has the same transaxle that they put in the Farmall Cub tractor. People put these transaxles through much more abuse than what I use it for; not to state the obvious.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
The trans/rear end in a IH cub Cadet is a stout system. From the you original post you don't have a manual for your IH Cub Cadet 124. Only Cub Cadets www.OnlyCubCadets.com has a selection of manuals for your 124. The fender and the part that holds the fenders and seat on your 124 needs to be removed. You need to remove the gear shifter. The first thing I would check is the gear shifter itself. Sometimes the half ball inside the shifter will break loose from the actual shifter handle. Here is a step by step instructions on how to repair shifter:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4624
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4624
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4626

Next area I would check is the shifter forks for wear. If the shifter forks look ok the next area make sure the shifter rods are engaging correctly. The shifter ball should be in the slot in the shifter rod when in gear. If they are not engaging right adjust as needed.

The last area that needs check is gear shifter poppet spring. Check the spring to make sure it's not broke. I would replace it with a stiffer spring than what Cub Cadet replacement spring is. You can buy one from one of the sites that sells pulling parts for Cub Cadet pullers. Removing the spring isn't that hard to do...you have to be carefull not to loose parts. First thing to do is put the tractor in reverse. Them loosen the bolt that is in the shifter fork so you can slide the shifter rod towards the rear. I wrap a shop towel around the shifter rod and them clamp a vice grip to it so I can pull the rod without marking it. The spring may pop out as you are pulling the rod. To reassemble the spring I use a punch to push the spring and ball back into the spot they were as I'm pulling the shifter rod back where it belongs. Make sure the ball is in the slot on the shifter before you tighten the bolt on the shifter clamp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Thank you for all the suggestions. Your input will be quite helpful once I accomplish a few other things higher in my To-Do Book. Yes, you heard me right, "To-Do Book" not "To-Do List".
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top