Trans axel question

Thanks, that a good idea. I have one of these and I can if needed put a smaller, more flexible hose on it.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...oduct_suction-gun-performance-tools_9240026-p
Great idea, thanks.
The oil looks awful thin so I need to search and find out what to replace it with.
I love this Forum, thanks again.
Marvin

Got most of the old oil out by suction and a small clear tube connected to my suction device. I got to the bottom of the differential and that was the lowest point. I took a mirror and checked the bottom of the housing for a drain plug and nothing there except a welch plug. I thought about removing it and cutting new threads in the hole for a plug but haven't decided on that yet. I did put one quart of 20W50 oil back in and that filled it to within 2 inches of the top. Decisions, decisions.
Marvin

JamesReady said:

If I remember correctly... it's supposed to be about 1 1/2" from the top of the fill plug....

I'd leave it for now and next spring do the same thing and that should re-juvinate your oil good enough for a few years...

Good luck

Click to expand...

Thanks, that's what I will do. I will extend the tube to the outside via a newly drilled hole in the back using the same air vent although the vent will be removable so I can refill without taking the seat and rear fender and gas tank out. I will also fabricate a "Dip stick" and mark the full point on it for future use (1-1/2 Inches below the top of case. Next year I will drill out the welch plug and allow it to drain and then cut threads in the hole, flush, screw in the plug and refill to the proper level using my dipstick and the replace the air vent. Then it will be serviceable without having to remove any major parts. In fact, I just may do that to my GT6000 later on if it has a place to drain on the bottom and a filler hole on the top.

Marvin

After this post I can call it quits, I hope.
Got it all back together after a slight modification of the Transaxel filler.
Here I took the sawzall and cut a section from a hole downward.

Then straightened the tab and cut a portion off.

Then pulled the filler hose with the air vent over and tied down with wire as a hose clamp looked gaudy. Shown with my "Dipstick" in check mode.
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Handle end of dipstick where I modified to make it hold a washer and then bent tabs to hold in place until the JB Weld dried.
[URL=http://s938.photobucket.com/user/GA_Boy/media/Mowers/MVC-018F_zps5f0c466b.jpg.html]
This is the lower end of the dipstick that I cut off and made a mark (left) at the top of the case and the second mark 1-1/2" down to indicate full. Just above the second line I stamped an "F" for full and about an inch below a low mark with cross hashes between the two.

I also cleaned the rank, replaced all the fuel lines and a new filter.
Purged it as per specs (Twice) and started cutting grass. It ran fine. I also added a double dose of StaBill to the tank. I parked it on a level shop floor for tonight and tomorrow I will check the trans level oil and add or take out untill F is reached on the dipstick.
BTW, It pulls much better than with the old oil and has a quicker response.
Wish me luck and thanks for the help, Marvin

I checked it this AM cold and the dip stick was 3/4" below the case top and 3/4" above my guestimated (sp) full level. I will leave it at that and if it is too full it can escape through the vent when it gets HOT.
Any comments on how full will be appreciated. One person thought it was 1-1/2"below the case top and that was from his memory.
Marvin