Trailer size
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944 Posts
I don't have a TLB...yet..but from what I recall seeing on the forums, you can squeeze it into a 12' trailer with the loader on/over the front rail. Most people would ideally recommend a 16' or 18' dual axle car hauler or landscape trailer. The extra length allows you to keep all of the tractor within the trailer deck footprint and give you some wiggle room to move the tractor around for ideal weight distribution.
:ditto:
It will fit on a 14' deck, but there is very little space for balancing the load. I originally wanted a 16' deck, which the dealer didn't have in stock, and ended up with a 18' car transporter and am glad for it.
The GC2310 tips the scales at over 3000 lb with loaded tires, and the hoe bucket sets on the beaver tail when the trailer is correctly balanced. That leaves about 1.5' behind the hoe bucket and about 2.5' in front of the loader bucket for extra goodies. Should the situation arise, I could load my MF1655 crossways at the front by moving the GC back to the end of the trailer and still come close to the right balance while still keeping the GC's tires on the wood deck.
Being able to bring home 16' lumber or 20' lengths of steel without tagging it with red flags is a bonus. There's 4' of empty tongue in front of the deck for any excess length. It's also a lot easier to back up than a minimum length trailer. It helps to have room to stow it between uses.
It will fit on a 14' deck, but there is very little space for balancing the load. I originally wanted a 16' deck, which the dealer didn't have in stock, and ended up with a 18' car transporter and am glad for it.
The GC2310 tips the scales at over 3000 lb with loaded tires, and the hoe bucket sets on the beaver tail when the trailer is correctly balanced. That leaves about 1.5' behind the hoe bucket and about 2.5' in front of the loader bucket for extra goodies. Should the situation arise, I could load my MF1655 crossways at the front by moving the GC back to the end of the trailer and still come close to the right balance while still keeping the GC's tires on the wood deck.
Being able to bring home 16' lumber or 20' lengths of steel without tagging it with red flags is a bonus. There's 4' of empty tongue in front of the deck for any excess length. It's also a lot easier to back up than a minimum length trailer. It helps to have room to stow it between uses.
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165 Posts
I bought a 14 foot trailer to haul my GC 2400 with fel and a 5 foot back blade. I moved my tractor over the weekend and the fel was tight to the front and the back blade was touching the back ramp. I wish now I would have gotten bigger. LOL
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15,215 Posts
our local plumber guy who has several bits of heavy equipment has a trailer for each item.. he likes the load center of gravity over the axles.. this makes the trailer to b more stable.. now on the chains he also has color coded chains .. the attachin points of the chains r also color coded to match the chains.. any of his employees has no prob loadin & securin a unit on it's trailer.. this makes it easy & simple for them..
If you are only going to have one trailer, make it of a size that will do all of your jobs acceptably.
I don't recall ever saying that I wish my trailer was shorter. When you consider that I can load a 10' long tractor/loader or a 12' aluminum boat inside my van and close the doors, any trailer that I do need is going to be long enough for other tasks requiring considerably more length.
I don't recall ever saying that I wish my trailer was shorter. When you consider that I can load a 10' long tractor/loader or a 12' aluminum boat inside my van and close the doors, any trailer that I do need is going to be long enough for other tasks requiring considerably more length.
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333 Posts
I brought my gc1710 home on a 7.5'W x 12'L single axle utility trailer with 6k axle on it. I wouldnt do that again do to the way it pulls on my Nissan Frontier. I would say you probably would want a 16' long trailer. Be mindful about tailer width if you keep a MMM on the tractor to transport.
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Scsbronco.... For future reference, when strapping down the loader don't do that again, any stress you are putting right into the cylinders instead of the metal. Twisting the bucket to full dump, then pulling on it with straps will destroy those cylinders quick
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8,414 Posts
Lower and secure to the vehicle all accessory equipment (hydraulic shovels, booms, etc.). - See more at: https://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/regulatio...heavy-vehicles-equipment#sthash.FwYTbnyn.dpuf
I have found dealers, really don't know their *** from their elbow. Selling a tractor is a lot different then transporting one or actually using one for a living, or owning one and wanting to keep it good. It would not take long to destroy those cylinders, lay the bucket bottom flat on the trailer, then strap it down crosswise. Lower the backhoe down and set that on the trailer also, strap that to the trailer, then strap crosswise the back of the tractor.
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