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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m about done with the fab work on my trailer (I think) and I’ll be ready to wire it up. One of the things I want to do is put a light under the forward and aft fender mounts so I can see where my tires are. This is a 16ft dove tail car hauler btw.

I plan on putting an amber on the forward, should I put red or amber in the aft?
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Nice looking trailer! What will you be using for the deck material?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank ya sir, bought it from my engine machine shop guy for $300, been sitting unused and wife wanted it gone.

As for decking material, I have 4 pieces of 2x10x16 treated on it most likely this weekend. After it’s all done I’m seriously considering having it sent out for Powdercoating being our business does work with a Powdercoating shop.

Nice looking trailer! What will you be using for the deck material?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh most definitely. I can pull everything apart easily if need be if I decide to send it out. The shop that would be doing it is charging $750, that could buy enough rattle cans to paint it with extra.

If you are going to powdercoat it, you might want to do that before fastening on the deck.
 
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Oh most definitely. I can pull everything apart easily if need be if I decide to send it out. The shop that would be doing it is charging $750, that could buy enough rattle cans to paint it with extra.
Having replaced the deck on my trailer, the pieces are typically screwed into the crossmembers wtih self-tapping screws. They typically will just be good enough to go in, if you are counting on them to easily coming out, don't be surprised if at least some of them to break off or the heads to strip. I think you'll find out it would have been much less work and hassle to power coat before putting the deck on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm going to use carrage bolts to tie the runners down, I used those screws on my utility trailer and will use carrage bolts on it as time goes along.

Having replaced the deck on my trailer, the pieces are typically screwed into the crossmembers wtih self-tapping screws. They typically will just be good enough to go in, if you are counting on them to easily coming out, don't be surprised if at least some of them to break off or the heads to strip. I think you'll find out it would have been much less work and hassle to power coat before putting the deck on.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thats what my utility trailer in the background is for(first pic) The trailer I’m working on is specifically for car hauling. It’s to haul this when it’s done.

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Looks good. I built a similar trailer from an old house trailer frame. I would suggest filling the whole deck. You might want to haul something smaller or even a load of dirt.

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I'm going to use carrage bolts to tie the runners down, I used those screws on my utility trailer and will use carrage bolts on it as time goes along.
I couldn't agree more. In the long run carriage bolts are the much better, when (not if) there comes a need to replace bed/deck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I’m going to use a touch of anti-sneeze on each nut, been there done that.
I couldn't agree more. In the long run carriage bolts are the much better, when (not if) there comes a need to replace bed/deck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah,it’s pretty solid and pulls good. The runners are 2x10x16, if I didn’t have to factor in 30” for the ramps I would have gone with 12”wide.
The white rs is a friends I’m trouble shooting and the S-10 is mine, it’s waiting on me to get the 4.3 in my shop sent out for assembly.
 
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Do I understand right that the planks are 2"x10", but what dimension is 16? But my question was actually about the wood specie. Is that cedar or larch?

That S-10 with extended cabin looks nice. Is it 2x4 or 4x4?
 
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