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Have Dog - Will Travel
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@mikeinri Hey Mike, I found my thread on the change over, and discovered it was one of those that lost most all the pictures. So it wasn't much help. But, I bought the Yellow leaf vacuum option from Universal Hose in Farmville, VA when they had free shipping.

A link to their site at Leaf Vacuum Hoses

Should get your started.

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Discussion Starter #82
Thanks Jere!

Presumably, that's held up well for you. Do you recall how long ago you replaced it?

Mike
 

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@mikeinri Hey Mike, I found my thread on the change over, and discovered it was one of those that lost most all the pictures. So it wasn't much help. But, I bought the Yellow leaf vacuum option from Universal Hose in Farmville, VA when they had free shipping.

A link to their site at Leaf Vacuum Hoses

Should get your started.

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Just an FWIW. When I switched my Cyclone Rake from the PO’s Kubota zero turn to my little Scotts, I had to shorten the 8” deck to blower by 2’. Then lengthen it by a foot when I switched from the Scotts to my X738 The alternative was to buy a new hose at over $150. I looked at the link provided and saw their hose connectors. An 8” one is a little over $32. I found a length of 8” stove pipe from Home Depot for a few $$ can work by trimming the side of the seam that goes inside to remove the fold over part. That allows the pipe to become slightly smaller and just fits inside the 8” Urethane hose and can hold up to a clamp being applied. I put it where the hose is fairly straight and there hasn’t been any noticeable reduction in performance or buildup inside the hose. Okay, I’m cheap and don’t throw away left over hose. Buying a couple offset band clamps at over $13 each was enough. Where there’s a will, there’s a way. I can’t say how well it might work on a hose that keeps changing length like on the Trac Vac, but might be worth a try. Might even work in a worn out or punctured hose by cutting it in two and adding the splice.
 

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Sorry Mike, I forgot to add that. This is the third season of use and it is holding up fine. No indication of wear, I would expect many more years of service. When new, I was able to see the leaves through the hose, which was a novelty. Since then the leaves and other debris have dirtied the inside of the hose enough so I really can't see through it any longer. Not really an indictment of the hose, and not really a necessity for the job.

Good luck.

FWIW, I was able to sell my shortened OEM black hose when I removed it on CraigsList for a reasonable recovery of some of my cost. I think I sold it as a shorter option to someone who wanted it for something like $50.

And, not that it is terribly useful, here is the thread I started on my original replacement exercise: Replacing Trac Vac suction hose (lots of pictures)
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Thanks guys. I think these hoses are considered wear items, which makes their prices even less tolerable ?although, if they last for 10 years, that wouldn't be so bad.

Jere, I wondered about how long the tube would stay clear. I've seen some folks use a short section of clear solid tube (I don't know what material) as part of their chute setup, don't know how long that lasts either.

Mike
 

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If the leaves are very dry, the tube clears some. Both for the deck to vacuum and for the long hose for vacuuming flower beds and such. I had used my long 6” hose to pick up damp leaves and acorns from the bottom of the ditch across the road and picked up a fair amount of damp dirt. Day before yesterday I picked up more leaves from the same ditch that were very dry and I could see the leaves through the hose very easily. Hoses do get harder to see through, but they are no where near warn out, at least with the Urethane tubes. They would last 10 years easily, but likely much more. Biggest issue might be for them getting punctured while not in use. The lesser grade long hose I got from my friend cracked due to aging. I now have the better grade hose from Cyclone Rake.
 

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I put mine on the little Economy tractor that was Grandad's...works great. Yesterday I bought a 14ft section of 8" green septic pipe, I'll add 8ft to the 30ft section of flex hose. I'll put handles on it. For getting under sheds, etc.
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Look what this lady sucks up in her Peco leaf vac. Yuck, I bet it sticks. Then she has to empty it and I bet that stuff is stuck in the cart and she has to shovel it out. whew wee.

 

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Look what this lady sucks up in her Peco leaf vac. Yuck, I bet it sticks. Then she has to empty it and I bet that stuff is stuck in the cart and she has to shovel it out. whew wee.

I get up horse poop every day, it's not bad! Basically chewed up grass which is what it is. What's weird is getting it up in pasture. A drag harrow would be better.
That's great compost!

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Discussion Starter #90
Don, that's just nuts! I do like the idea of the big spring holding up the hose, though. Might borrow that one. My shepherd's hook has some give to it, but not enough, especially with the wider (54 inch) deck on the GS6500.

Sevenhills, The cheap(er) drain hose is a great idea for experimenting with different lengths when setting up a new machine!

Mike
 

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I vacuumed up one pile of dog poop once, YES just once, never again
 
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There's a company here that picks up dog feces. Some of the neighbors use them.

Growing up I had a Great Dane that I had to clean up after him so I know what its like. He went twice a day and it was the size of horse feces.

I saw a Peco Vac for sale down in Chester Virginia that look brand new they only wanted $700 for it. It had a 6.5 hp motor and all the hoses was with it. I did a leaf cleanup today with my craftsman and bagger and it does okay. I can't complain. I only have to do the backyard. The side yards and front have no trees or leaves.
 

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Discussion Starter #94 (Edited)
Started working on the fuel tank yesterday, of course, nothing is easy on an old machine...

Had to cut the fuel line off the tank, and was expecting just a long run to the carb, but NOOOO... Briggs had to get cute and use a fuel pump on this engine!

To find that out, of course took a bunch of disassembly. But, to get at this without removing the carb (linkages, etc.), required cutting and removing two other lines.

Of course, removing the air cleaner housing resulted in the gasket getting some surface damage (sorry, no pic). And the local Briggs shop doesn't carry the replacement). I'll clean it up and use some Permatex with it.

My real problem is this: Too many tight turns in the fuel line, I'm concerned about the new line getting kinked.

If anyone knows of a good way to make new lines, please tell me!

I started a dedicated thread in the Small Engines section, as this will apply to lots of equipment...


Mike

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More than likely, old hose has become somewhat hardened with age that is causing it to maintain the shape so I think you’ll be okay putting the same length of hose in as was there before without it kinking. However, seems as though I’ve seen a way to keep fuel lines from kinking is to take a long length of light spring and stretch it out some. Then slide or wind it over the hose. The spring will make the hose make gradual bends without kinking.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
I also discovered what may the cause of the binding and vibration in the dump release latch assembly... Wallowed out holes and badly worn bolts.

I'm going to try drilling the holes out and using bushings and new bolts.

If that doesn't work, I'll fill the holes with JB Jr and redrill.

If that doesn't work, I'll have to bring it to the welder. One of the parts is welded to the frame, so I can't just buy or make new parts to solve this problem, unfortunately.

Mike

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Here's mine. All you should have to do is replace bolts. The large pan head screw on end adjusts setting how hard it locks down on bracket.
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Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
Here's mine. All you should have to do is replace bolts. The large pan head screw on end adjusts setting how hard it locks down on bracket. View attachment 2480744 View attachment 2480745 View attachment 2480746
Tonight, I finally figured out what you mean here, quite by accident!

As mentioned in one of my prior posts, the holes were wallowed out (egg/oval shape), and the bolts were badly worn. I mistakenly purchased bolts with too large a diameter (3/8 inch, I'm assuming the old ones were 5/16).

So, I drilled the holes out and used the new (larger) bolts (upgraded to Grade 8). I intentionally bought long bolts to have a long shoulder (non-threaded) area. I also used washers and nylon locking nuts.

I also replaced the adjustment screw (I used a 5/16 Grade 8 hex head, because I also bought too large of a replacement hex head bolt).

After goobering up the mechanism with Anti-Sieze, I started playing with the adjustment, and by accident found a position where the handle feels like it's "locked" into position!

Thanks again for your advice. Here are some updated pics.

Mike

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Discussion Starter #99 (Edited)
More than likely, old hose has become somewhat hardened with age that is causing it to maintain the shape so I think you’ll be okay putting the same length of hose in as was there before without it kinking. However, seems as though I’ve seen a way to keep fuel lines from kinking is to take a long length of light spring and stretch it out some. Then slide or wind it over the hose. The spring will make the hose make gradual bends without kinking.
I got the fuel lines replaced and tank installed today/tonight. As described in my other thread, I followed Steve Urquell's advice (put 8 gauge, bare copper wire into a piece of hose, bent to shape, and boiled in water) to pre-bend the lines with the sharpest curves.

Make no mistake, this worked extremely well, but if I'd thought it through, I probably should have bought the molded hoses when I bought the tank.

I also installed a fuel filter.
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I added gas, and opened the valve. No leaks so far, but it was too late to run the machine, so I'll try to fire it up tomorrow.

I also fixed the kill switch wire, and added a quick disconnect that I plan to use to hook up a remote kill switch for when I'm running the unit connected to the mower deck (up to now, I've only used it to suck up by hand).

Of course, I took tons of pics, as this took all day, and required an unscheduled trip to the hardware store...

Mike

PS: I've replaced a lot of fuel lines over the years. I usually use a razor utility knife to cut it, and rarely get a clean, square cut. I recently bought this ratcheting tubing cutter, and all I can say is... BUY ONE!!!

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Discussion Starter #100
Here are the pics of the kill switch wiring. I added ring terminals and used stranded (not solid) wire for the new ground.

The lead from the coil is still a solid wire, I may replace that later (I couldn't find a female spade connector in my spare parts).

Mike

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