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Discussion Starter #61
After missing out on a curb alert chipper (with a nice looking tank that I would have used here), and no luck in the past two weeks finding a cheap alternative, I broke down and ordered a new tank ($105, free shipping), should be here tomorrow. Hoping to get the tires, tank and fuel line replaced this weekend, and get the kill switch working again.

The long list of other things needed can wait until this is running again.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Yes, no problem at all.
 

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My 880 was so front heavy I made this dolly with casters and lumber. I ordered 30ft of 8" hose so coupled it's 35ft. I made door brackets that work better than factory ones.
I could pull with Cub Z-Force but it was bending tow bracket. Tractor with belly mower was ok using draw bar hitch.
Now with dollys I can pull it around by hand easily.
Last two things I want to make before Fall is a 5ft. 8" pipe with handles. I tried flue pipe which worked perfectly until I almost sucked up a car cover! So it needs to be strong but light. I'll have 40ft then between machine and hose end for hand cleaning under overhangs.
Next modification will be filters for top screens. It chews leaves up into a powder and blows them out through screens making a mess. No problem with mower, but using by hand. View attachment 2463710 View attachment 2463711
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Discussion Starter #66
Yes, the exhaust is a very real problem, especially when working by hand alongside the unit (which we do a lot of, as the backyard has tons of exposed rocks small enough to hide under leaves, big enough to destroy a mower deck).

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Well, the new tank is already in! Amazon Prime, free overnight delivery.

For $105, you get a Made in USA plastic tank. Comes with a new shutoff valve and gas cap, so that's a plus...

Working today, and probably going out with the family tonight, so (weather-permitting), I'll tackle this tomorrow.

Mike

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Discussion Starter #69
Very cool. Another brilliant idea from Taryl!

Mike
 

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That new fuel tank looks to be good quality and should last a long time. I have had pretty good luck plastic welding a few tanks, but they were not as bad as that one.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Thanks. I thought about welding it when I saw the price, but agree that it's probably too far gone.

I've had too many interruptions to get to this job yet, will post an update when I get there.

Mike
 

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I didn’t see anyone with a solution to the fine pieces of leaves blowing out so I thought I would pass along what seemed to work on my first homemade lawn vac. I used standard 1/4” screen over the opening to allow good airflow and found just what everyone has said. I added a pieve of sheet aluminum doubled over for strength (and it’s what I had). Then I bent it down at about 45* and attached it to the roof with the angled section pointing low on the tailgate. That seemed to cause enough direction changes for the debris to fall out into the trailer. It seemed without that piece the airflow was too close to the screen allowing too much debris to exit.

Maybe someone can try it and pass the results along. It worked for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
PLEASE post pics of this!!!

I've been looking at mine and had a few ideas, yours seems better than my ideas so far.

My "best" idea so far is to extend the top cover (too short up front) along the length of the entire screen, essentially making a tunnel to the rear of the unit. That would at least stop the flow out of the sides so you can work alongside the unit without getting completely covered in debris.

Mike
 

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The screen was mostly in the swing up tailgate, but a little in the top. The deflector was maybe 1/4-1/3 of the way forward. The hose connected through the front near the top. I didn’t have an extra engine/blower or I might not have given up so quick. I included some photos of the fill too. Maybe consider closing off the top screen, add the deflector on the close out, and put screen/opening in the rear gate. Here’s the MTF link:
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Oh, that's very helpful, thanks!

You were very smart to only have the screen at the rear of the unit (assuming it doesn't get blocked by leaves).

The screen on the Trac Vac 880 runs down the center of the whole length of the top of the unit.

I think the forward half of the screen could be changed to solid metal, and the back half needs more coverage (longer "tunnel").

Mike

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The area of the screen needed should be at at a minimum equal to the hose diameter; double to make the air velocity 1/2 of that from the blower; maybe three times to compensate for some blockage due to wet grass. My Cyclone Rake is about 18” square opening (324 sq in) in the top for an 8” hose (50 sq in). I think the Z10 has a 10” hose (78.5 sq in) and maybe 24” square opening (576 sq in)in the top. These should give you an idea of the ratio between the incoming to the outlet.

The year before last was a very wet year and I had to clear the screen every time I emptied the trailer as it plugged with mud closing off the grid. My Cyclone Rake also only has the canvas material sewn in a shape similar to the metal one on your Trac Vac. It flops in the breeze until the trailer is at or near full so I can tell when to dump pretty easily.

You will soon figure out that the heavy stuff goes to the back because of speed and weight (I know weight of an object doesn’t affect the speed that it falls) while lighter stuff circles back to the front. Just my observation. I liked where the screen was in the makeshift trailer. Very little blew out the screen, at least compared to the Cyclone Rake. My wife hates it when I clean up leaves by the house (L-shaped back). When we make the turn and the trailer points toward the house, the windows definitely need a bath afterward.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Replaced the tires tonight (mostly). Got the new valve stems and 4-ply tires mounted onto the rims, but forgot to get new hardware (washers and cotter pins), which was very worn. Picked those up at Lowe's tonight, will finish up in the morning.

Was pleasantly surprised to find roller bearings in the rims!

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Tires are done. Still need to tackle the fuel tank, fuel line (and filter), oil change, spark plug, kill switch, remote kill switch, shepherd's hook, screen repair, add a latch spring, and a new / longer hose. Probably forgetting something.

BTW, after some trial-and-error (and a useless, more recent, manual which says bushings are now used), I found that one inner and one outer 14-gauge washer (1 x 1-1/2 was what Lowe's had, would have preferred a larger OD), and a 3/16 x 1-3/4 cotter pin was needed on each side.

The PO had an odd collection of washer thicknesses. BFH and a block of wood were needed to slide the axle over to even up the clearances on both sides...

The grease zeros are almost useless. Squirted grease in, only to have it shoot right out of the washer. Eventually need to find grease caps to fit, I guess. I removed the rims, and manually loaded them up with wheel bearing grease, the shot some Red /Tacky grease into the zerks. Probably overkill, considering how little use this gets, and how dry the old grease was that came out.

Mike

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Discussion Starter #79
Added my shepherd's hook last night, used two brass bushings (1/2 x 3/4 diameters) and a shaft collar. Much better than the experimental setup on my small unit (mostly electrical tape, lol )...

Took a quick pic of the hitch setup (seems like something is always too low), and put the unit back into storage for now.

Mike

EDIT: Man, this needs paint!

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Discussion Starter #80
@mikeinri If you are looking for the swing down foot for your Trac Vac, you can see the one handing in my picture.
Hey Jere,

I recall that you replaced your tube at some point, but I can't find the info. Do you recall the vendor/site, and would you still recommend that brand?

Mike
 
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