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Hey guys,

Picked up a used Trac Vac 880 today. $550, and less than an hour from home. WOO HOO!!!

This has a Briggs 8 HP engine, with the following numbers: 192432 018901 970515YD

So, unless it's been repowered, it's 22 years old. Definitely hasn't been babied, but no major problems.

I got it hooked up and ran it for over an hour, filled it three times (raked into the hose chute). Will follow up with discovered needs.

This is a major, major upgrade from my Trac Vac 380, which I've owned for the past seven years. Not only does it hold a ton more (much fewer interruptions to run to dump), but I don't have to lift the Rubbermaid bucket to empty it!!!

Link to my old unit:
https://www.mytractorforum.com/78-lawn-garden-tractor-accessories/255217-purchased-trac-vac-560-385-hybrid.html

Mike
 

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I have one (880) I got a couple months ago. I just now ordered 25ft of 8" hose from Amazon. That way I should be able to vacuum under sheds and overhangs.
I don't like the door latches, so I fabricated ones from a hardware store. Much stronger. The dumping works ok if you have it backed up to an embankment.
Tremendous suction, always shut it down if it clogs, taking hose off!
I may modify the top since it blows dust everywhere through vents. Furnace filters maybe?

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Very Nice!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have one (880) I got a couple months ago. I just now ordered 25ft of 8" hose from Amazon. That way I should be able to vacuum under sheds and overhangs.
I don't like the door latches, so I fabricated ones from a hardware store. Much stronger. The dumping works ok if you have it backed up to an embankment.
Tremendous suction, always shut it down if it clogs, taking hose off!
I may modify the top since it blows dust everywhere through vents. Furnace filters maybe?
Let me know how the 25 foot hose works out for you. The hose on this unit is definitely too short for me to turn left with my tractor, and it's taped in three places, so I definitely will need to buy hose.

I can't imagine clearing a clog in the middle of a 25-foot length though.

Also, please post pics of your new latch setup!

This thing is just in a totally different class compared to my 380. The larger hose just looks enormous, and it's got incredible suction.

The odd thing is the ridiculous amount of restriction in the deck boot. It really constricts the flow going into the 8-inch tube.

Dumping in my flat garden was pretty easy. The length of the unit was the only real challenge (backing it into place).

As for the dust, really didn't have that problem today, as it rained yesterday and has been pretty wet around here for the past few weeks. But, we got covered in leaf bits, as there's a sizable hole in the top screen.

Not sure that a furnace filter would give enough airflow, especially when it gets loaded. If you try it, I'd love to hear your results.

Mike
 

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Very Nice!
Thanks. I've been eyeing these for years, don't think I've ever seen one this close to home, and certainly not for as little money. They're usually priced well over $1k, and sometimes in worse shape.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
OK, good bad and ugly time...

Good:

I think we covered the good already. Starts easily, runs well, sucks like crazy. No major problems, no rot.

The oil looked clean and at a good level when I checked it.

Bad:

The engine was missing a stop switch. The seller would ground a wire to the shroud to kill the spark to stop the engine. I spent $11 at Home Depot, and used some stock materials at home, to come up with a real shutoff switch. I'll be able to tap into this for a remote kill later.

Neither wheel hub has a grease cover. My son managed to get grease all over his hands and the air hose when inflating the tires today.

The tongue weight on this is ridiculous! Going to try and find a low profile tongue jack for it at some point.

Need to rig up a hose holder for transport. My shepherds hook idea from the 380 should work.

The trailer dump mechanism rattles horribly with the engine running. No idea what I can do about that, short of replacing it with a different design.

The discharge chute just slips into the trailer bay. Not sure that this isn't missing a fitting.

The suction hose is taped in at least three places, and the discharge tube now has tape from me.

The spark plug wire has no boot. Are there universal ones available to add to this?

Ugly:

Well, I doubt this thing has ever seen the indoors of any building. Surface rust on most everything.

The impeller housing looks like it's eaten more than a few rocks, and probably has the least amount of paint as any part of the machine.

The muffler looks like it's seen better days. Missing the deflector at a minimum.

Both tires are horribly cracked. One has a tube, the other was getting flat. I inflated both to 20 pounds, we'll see how long it takes for them to leak.

When the seller started it up, water was being shot out of places it probably shouldn't have, mostly out of the impeller housing. I think the culprit was a broken part of the metal discharge hose (allowing rain water in). I put duct tape on that, it's supposed to rain overnight and tomorrow, so that will be a good test.

As mentioned in a prior post, there's a large hole in the forward top screen. There's also what appears to be a car floor mat tie wrapped into place covering the hole. Maybe that also helps with dust?

These screens don't look to be designed for easy replacement of the screen material, so I'll have to Macgyver something. I may copy something from the 380.

The fuel tank appears to be leaking from the shutoff valve. Hopefully the carb is OK.



I haven't checked the spark plug or air filter yet, but am not very concerned given how well it ran.

Overall, I still think I got a great deal. Even if I do nothing to it, I can recoup my investment, and it's already working for me in the yard!

Mike

Pic 1-4: Kill switch

Pic 5-6: Discharge tube

Pic 7: Impeller housing

Pic 8: Fuel valve leak

Pic 9-11: Tires and hubs
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
More pics...

Pic 1-2: Broken top screen, with mud flap cover

Pic 3: Suction hose with boot

Pic 4: First load dumped!!!!!

Pic 5: Debris-covered 880 after use, bonus shot of 380 in background!
 

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Mike, If it runs you got a deal. That roof screen you can buy a piece of small web fencing at Home Depot to cover the hole. I would buy a thick tarp at Harbor Freight to cover it. They are cheap there. You can always clean it up next Spring when the weather is more reasonable. But you got yourself a deal there. There is one near me for $2,900 on EBay and its at a Kubota dealership close to me. Its in excellent condition.Here's a picture of it. I need this like a hole in my head.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks Don, that's precisely what I was thinking, on all points!

Looking at the pic you posted, it might just be missing a latch where the discharge chute enters the trailer.

I've printed the parts manual for the Trac Vac, will need to find the one for the engine, and start making plans for cleanup and improvements.

I generally don't have the patience for prep and paint work, so it won't be looking pristine any time soon, but I'll definitely fix stuff as needed for functionality, and paint enough to slow the rusting process.

Mike
 

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Few pictures. The rear door braces are expensive, so I fabricated mine with these from Ace hardware (2 for $6.95). I bent a corner brace flat, hammered end over in vice about 1/4". Drill & pop-rivit on. This position is fairly critical since you want door clamped tight closed. Other picture shows factory clamp which I tore off going around trees.
If it still gives trouble, so far it hasn't, but a better design would be two pieces of 1" steel channel welded or bolted either side. The door could then slide up and off...much better.
The kill switch mine has two. One simple one is the flat spring on head you push down touching spark plug, plug without a boot.
Other is the ignition coil wire goes over to linkage so off linkage touches and grounds it.
The dump mechanism works fine.
I'm using it on a Cub Z-Force now, but you're right about heavy front. I'll probably fabricate a dolly wheel, easy to do.
The mower shute isn't really right. I may make one that should be out and aimed up.
The center wheel covers are just rubber caps. Measure, you should be able to fine online or make , rubber chair tip, plumbing supply cap.


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Thanks Don. Found a parts diagram at the Briggs site (go figure).

The spark plug wire and kill switch setup is mysterious. The IPL shows no boot on the plug wire, but shows a separate part for it on another page (but without a part number to order).

The kill switch shown is the old-school design (push a metal strip onto the plug to ground it out).

The weird part is that wire, and the hole in the shroud through which it's routed. If you look closely, it's not a round hole, it has a shape that looks like it's intended to hold a switch housing.

Mike
 

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Thanks for the pics, sevenhills.

The kill switch you're describing aligns with the IPL. Can you post a pic of the top of your engine? Just curious about the hole in my shroud.

The pic of your latch mod is very fuzzy, but I think I understand.

The dump mechanism works as intended, but is very loose and makes a loud noise when the engine is running (vibrations transferred through frame). A spring might help.

My unit came with a small castor wheel, but without an adjustable hitch, would be worthless. There's also no on-unit storage for it once the vacuum is connected to the tractor.

I'll have to take a look at my linkages andwires. When I dropped the throttle to low/stop, the engine just kept idling.

Mike
 

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These pictures may be better.
They guy I got this from had it in his garage and I keep it inside here. I need to wash it, he never did either.
The dump lever end is adjustable so shouldn't rattle.


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SWEET!!! Thank you!

Looks like they just had a plastic plug there, maybe that shroud was used across multiple engine models, some needed a part to go there.

How does the dump mechanism get adjusted?

Mike
 
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I found this article about making a dumping mechanism on the back of the Trac-Vac. Here it is.

Re: Ideas to unload my 880 trac vac ??

I had an uncle who used to manufacture ensilage gates that were automatic. No hydraulic or latches required . These gates were constructed with the hinge set a foot or more ahead of the rear of the dump bed. An 90 degree angle iron frame positioned the gate at the rear of the dump The gate's weight against the bottom held it closed. As the bed was raised, the center of gravity moved rearward causing the gate to open. The function of the gate relied on a pretty step dump angle. He sold a lot of those gates and many people copied them. I will try to find a picture. May even try to make a drawing, but it will probably be pretty low grade. You may be able to see on the drawing (if I got it attached) that the longer the distance between the hinge point and the back of the dump box the higher the gate will raise. Also height of dump box will matter also.
 

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SWEET!!! Thank you!



Looks like they just had a plastic plug there, maybe that shroud was used across multiple engine models, some needed a part to go there.



How does the dump mechanism get adjusted?



Mike
Dump lever end where it touches the cargo bracket is a round head slotted bolt on mine. Turn cw from end makes it longer so gives it more closing pressure.
Yes, shroud has a plug.
I rebuilt carburetor on mine, it wasn't real bad but leaves, grass in tank. I'll put an inline fuel filter on it.
Only problem I had was mine would cut off.
I had gas cap on too tight so it wasn't vented properly.

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