I would pop the head off and check for a chunk of carbon holding one valve open. Will need a new head gasket. Part number 11004-2064. Which my source says is obsolete. Hope this helps
Tough no compression issue!!!
Hello I'm new to this forum and to small engines. Hopefully someday I can contribute. I have a Kawasaki golf cart engine issue. I haven't had it long but did some work on the rear end and now it won't start. It was always kind of hard starting but ran strong and didn't smoke at all. Here's what I have:
1988 Club Car DS Fz340. 1341cc 9 hp. flat head engine. Ran fine but will not start now. Has spark, has fuel. No compression. About down to 30 now. It was 60 yesterday.
When it ran it did not smoke or use oil. I put oil in the cylinder and checked compression again the oil not improve the compression. It is pulsing pressure out of the valve cover hose going to the air cleaner. Took off the valve cover side plate and both valves were moving up and down fine.
When it first starts to turn over it has a touch of a sputter but just barley. And only when it first starts to turn.
So.... I think that it has gotten out of time internally. What can cause that? That is why there is no compression because the vales are opening on the compression stroke? When the valve cover was open pressure was pulsing out of that area when the engine was turning over. Maybe it is suppose to do that?
Any thoughts on a solution would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
1988 Club Car DS Fz340. 1341cc 9 hp. flat head engine. Ran fine but will not start now. Has spark, has fuel. No compression. About down to 30 now. It was 60 yesterday.
When it ran it did not smoke or use oil. I put oil in the cylinder and checked compression again the oil not improve the compression. It is pulsing pressure out of the valve cover hose going to the air cleaner. Took off the valve cover side plate and both valves were moving up and down fine.
When it first starts to turn over it has a touch of a sputter but just barley. And only when it first starts to turn.
So.... I think that it has gotten out of time internally. What can cause that? That is why there is no compression because the vales are opening on the compression stroke? When the valve cover was open pressure was pulsing out of that area when the engine was turning over. Maybe it is suppose to do that?
Any thoughts on a solution would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Bad 94 will do that right now then. By chance I ordered a new head gasket for it friday and it arrived today. Just didn't want to pull it without some guidance and now I have it..Thanks for the direction!
Thanks Tractor tinkerer! AS stated on my 2nd line of my OP I do have spark and fuel so I feel we are probably good there. Plug is not wet because with no compression it's not drawing in anything. I can put fuel in the plug hole and replace the plug and with no compression it still won't fire. I'm taking the head off now.So the tester you have works on other engines?
Does it have spark?
Is the plug wet?
Diagnose the whole engine..
Sounds like the engine is outdated and many have replaced it with another CCW plant.
HERE is the manual
All I got..
These are know to be very good engines. They used them on a high quality golf cart for more than 10 years and John Deere Gators used them also I believe. I really don't want to give up on it. Thanks!! Also thanks for the manual link but they want my Credit card info before they will let be view after they say it's free and that is usually not a good idea!
Ding ding ding!! I think you were right. I don't have a valve spring compressor that fits this. Any way I can clean it all while it's in the head?I would pop the head off and check for a chunk of carbon holding one valve open. Will need a new head gasket. Part number 11004-2064. Which my source says is obsolete. Hope this helps
2
That's nasty!! Sorry about the link being bogus but it happens.. A lot of times I do get lucky and stumble across free ones though..
Here's an inexpensive spring compressor.. They do come in handy from time to time but otherwise hang on the wall or in a drawer.. Lisle 23300 Valve Tool - Cylinder Head Tools
The OE head gasket is NLA
But they have a replacement HERE
Good Luck!
Here's an inexpensive spring compressor.. They do come in handy from time to time but otherwise hang on the wall or in a drawer.. Lisle 23300 Valve Tool - Cylinder Head Tools
The OE head gasket is NLA
But they have a replacement HERE
Good Luck!
Thanks Tinkerer for the links and info!That's nasty!! Sorry about the link being bogus but it happens.. A lot of times I do get lucky and stumble across free ones though..
Here's an inexpensive spring compressor.. They do come in handy from time to time but otherwise hang on the wall or in a drawer.. Lisle 23300 Valve Tool - Cylinder Head Tools
The OE head gasket is NLA
But they have a replacement HERE
Good Luck!
One more question fellas. This motor has some weird stuff going on by design in the valve spring area. Looks kinda like the valve goes clear through the spring and continues into the cylinder on the opposite side as the head of the valve.
I can get the valves to turn but when attempting to spin them they are very grabby. Pretty hard to turn. Do these need to be super easy to turn before I put the head back on. Reason I ask is that it will take a lot of time to get those valves free. Thanks!
I can get the valves to turn but when attempting to spin them they are very grabby. Pretty hard to turn. Do these need to be super easy to turn before I put the head back on. Reason I ask is that it will take a lot of time to get those valves free. Thanks!
The valves should rotate and lift freely.. In your case the valve stem is mucked up and sticking open as a result.. As long as the bottom of the valve is clean it should come up OK once the spring and keeper is removed. Be careful not to bend the valve by prying it out unevenly if it does give you trouble.. You should be able to clean that thing up and reinstall / lap it back in as long as the face and seat are OK and not deformed.. If you are uncomfortable get help with this or have questions there are lots of YT videos to show you how these things are done. Here's
Sometimes the end of the valve stem will mushroom. You can clean this up with a file.
Sounds like it's been sitting for a while. Clean the valve stem and guide, relube and work it until it rotates and lifts freely. I would lap it as well, and install a new stem seal when you go back together.
It wouldn't hurt to do the same to the intake valve as well.
Sounds like it's been sitting for a while. Clean the valve stem and guide, relube and work it until it rotates and lifts freely. I would lap it as well, and install a new stem seal when you go back together.
It wouldn't hurt to do the same to the intake valve as well.
That is the intake, exhaust gets to hot to carbon up like that. 
If you grab the valve while it is open, it should rotate without a LOT of resistance. There will be friction on the stem, and some on the tip of the stem where it meets the tappet or lifter.
You would be well served to remove the valve and clean off the carbon. Then inspect the seating area on the block and the tulip of the valve. You should see clean metal-to-metal contact area. If not, use lapping compound to clean up the seat and valve.
Once done, re-assemble the spring & keeper, and check the clearance between the valve stem tip and the tappet. It should have 4-5 thousandths of an inch clearance, ballpark. Each manufacturer specifies correct clearance. If too small, the valve will not seat properly. To regain clearance, the tip of the valve stem is filed or ground off until a proper clearance is reached. A too-small clearance will make the engine harder to start when at operating temperature as the compression at slow cranking rpms will be lower due to poorer seating and thus leakage of the gas back into the intake, or out the exhaust.
tom
You would be well served to remove the valve and clean off the carbon. Then inspect the seating area on the block and the tulip of the valve. You should see clean metal-to-metal contact area. If not, use lapping compound to clean up the seat and valve.
Once done, re-assemble the spring & keeper, and check the clearance between the valve stem tip and the tappet. It should have 4-5 thousandths of an inch clearance, ballpark. Each manufacturer specifies correct clearance. If too small, the valve will not seat properly. To regain clearance, the tip of the valve stem is filed or ground off until a proper clearance is reached. A too-small clearance will make the engine harder to start when at operating temperature as the compression at slow cranking rpms will be lower due to poorer seating and thus leakage of the gas back into the intake, or out the exhaust.
tom
Really good info thank you guys so much!
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