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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I am new to the forum and joined because my son has expressed an interest in fixing up a lawn tractor. We recently acquired a Toro 8-32 Model 57300. Based on the serial#, it is a 1980 model year.

The previous owner passed away and the person who sold had very little knowledge about it other than saying "he used it and it ran". The seat switch has been bypassed by cutting, stripping, and twisting the wires together.

We had to put a carb kit in. The engine sounds great and seems to run good, except the only way to start it is use a screw driver across the solenoid terminals or jumper cable to the starter.

I want to be able to start it normally and want the safety switches to work. I don't mind if the seat switch is bypassed.

The mower has a seat, deck, and neutral safety switch according to the wiring diagram in the parts manual. It also has something called an interlock module.

Looking at youtube videos we performed continuity tests on the deck and neutral safety switch and they tested ok.

We also performed a continuity test on the ignition switch, based on another you tube video and it appears to be OK as well.

We did put a new starter solenoid on but that did not help.

According to a youtube video, we unhooked the white wire from the solenoid, put the positive lead from a multi meter on it the black lead on a ground, turned the ignition to start, and according to a youtube video should have at least 12 volts. We did not have any voltage. Checked the battery and it had 12.53 volts.

The red wire to the starter, with the in-line fuse, has 12.51 volts.

We don't know what to next. Any suggestions?

Is there a better to test the solenoid?

Is there a procedure to test the interlock module? It looks like a turn signal flasher and has 3 or 4 wires going into it. This piece also costs $78, so I don't want to order unless I know it's bad.

Does anyone have a link to the actual user manual for this model? The toro website only has the parts manual.

The brake holder is broke and we have ordered the part but would like to know if there is an adjustment procedure.

I won't let my son drive it until the brakes work and the deck and neutral safety switches are working.

Appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks.
 

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I should have read a little farther. It appears the module does not control the starting - ignition only. Here is a wiring diagram from a 1984 operator manual. Hope it is the same.

Garry

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Found a wiring diagram in the 1980 parts manual and it is different that the 1984.
The solenoid has 2 small terminals -One is fed from the battery (+) all the time and the other provides a ground supplied by the ignition switch when in the START position.
So far have not determined which ignition switch terminal provides the ground.

Whatever you do while testing do not allow any battery voltage into the ignition wire going to the engine. As a safety measure disconnect that wire if you can so the ignition coil does not go up in smoke.

The diagram with Wiring Diagram on it is the 1984

Garry
 

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Found the 23-0660 ignition switch description.

To me there is a mistake somewhere as I don't see how the solenoid can be grounded by the ignition switch. It states the B which has battery power is connected to the S which goes to the solenoid.

The wiring diagram shows the solenoid powered by a wire connected to the battery (+) cable at the solenoid.

Maybe you can spot the mistake since you have the tractor.

Garry
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks so much for the attachments. I was able to print them. will try to get back to you later this evening. Have a good day.
 

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It appears Toro discovered their mistake and corrected it for 1982. This one makes more sense for the model 57300. Wish I could delete the earlier diagrams but it is too late to do that.

The ignition switch powers the solenoid in the START position

The solenoid ground is provided by
The deck switch in the OFF position plus
The transmission switch in neutral plus
The seat switch with the operator in the seat

Garry
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Appreciate the updated diagram. I'm confused though. The 1980 model we have does not have a blade clutch switch. The wiring diagram on page 8 of the 1980 parts manual does match what is in the mower we have.

I unplugged the deck and neutral safety switch and put a jumper wire between the two tabs in the plug, used a piece of 12 gauge wire. The two wires on the seat safety switch were already wired together. Thought it would be a good way to test where the problem is without having to worry about the switches. Will this work?

I then unhooked the white wire from the solenoid and put one of the multi-meter leads onto the white wire. put the other lead onto a ground. turned the key and meter read 0 volts. The video we watched indicated we should get 12 volts. Since we are getting 0 volts on the meter does that mean it's grounding out somewhere?

I have no idea where though. I tested the ignition switch for continuity again based on the one attachment above and it tests fine.

In regards to the interlock module test procedure. I have a stupid question. When it says test for spark, does it mean at the spark plug? Is there a spark testing light or something that can be clamped onto the spark plug so we don't need to watch the spark plug gap? Sorry, this is only our second project and we are still learning.

Appreciate the responses, diagrams, and your patience. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #8
One thing I forgot to mention is the new solenoid we put on is one that is commonly available at a big box store and it is different than the original. I will put the old Toro solenoid back on and try that as well. I don't think anything was wrong with it. The new one was only $13 and since it appeared to be a common problem I thought what the heck. The new solenoid is the Arnold brand. The number on the package is 490-250-0013. Thanks again for the responses
 

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The blade clutch in the 1982 wiring is for an electric pto clutch that powers the mower deck. Your tractor does not have that - your's is a manual clutch.

That should work.

You should have 0 volts until you turn the key to the START position and then it should go to battery voltage.

Yes there is a tester you can get that plugs into the plug wire and onto the spark plug. Believe it is a neon light that indicates when there is spark. There is also one that plugs into the plug wire and clamps to one of the engine fins to complete the circuit. Almost like a spark plug with a ground clamp to mount it.

As long as the solenoid has 2 large terminals and 2 small terminals it should work. Which way each pair is installed does not matter.

Garry
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. But when I turn the key to start, I get zero volts instead of battery voltage. Doesn't that mean something is still causing a ground somewhere? Since I have jumper wires on does that mean maybe the interlock? The person who had the mower prior to me, cut the starter rope off and removed the recoil spring. Is there a way to test for spark with that removed? Thanks again for the help.
 

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Thanks. But when I turn the key to start, I get zero volts instead of battery voltage. Doesn't that mean something is still causing a ground somewhere? Since I have jumper wires on does that mean maybe the interlock? The person who had the mower prior to me, cut the starter rope off and removed the recoil spring. Is there a way to test for spark with that removed? Thanks again for the help.
Check the back of the ignition switch to see if the red wire is supplying battery voltage to the B terminal.
If it is that should put battery voltage to the white wire in the Start position.
Probe the white wire at the back of the ignition switch to rule out a white wire problem.
If it does not then the ignition switch has failed.

The interlock module should only control the ignition spark.

You have to get the starter working to check for spark. No other way if the recoil is missing.

That ignition switch is very popular so should be easy to find. Stens # 430-538
https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/viewproduct.asp?i=&p=1333

Garry
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I did order a new ignition switch - should be here this week sometime - will update you then. Appreciate the help.
 

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I finally got it to start with the key this evening.

I put the old solenoid back on and everything worked. The only reason I put a new one on was because it was listed as a common problem and a new one was only $13, so I figured what do I have to loose.

I think I know why the old works and the new one does not The old solenoid is a little different than the new one. The old one had 4 terminals on top. Two big and two small and a jumper wire from one of the big terminals to one of the small terminals.

When I hooked up the new one, It had two big terminals on top and two small on the bottom. The instructions for the new one did not show or say anything about a jumper wire so I figured I did not need it. Since it seemed like I was not getting power to the ignition switch I thought maybe the jumper wire on the old solenoid has something to do with it. I put the old one back on to see if it worked, with the safety switches bypassed for testing only, and it did!

So, I'm still not sure how I should've hooked up the jumper wire on the new one to make it work. I understand which big terminal to hook it to but how do you know which small terminal? They aren't marked with letters or anything.

It works now so at least I can sleep better. Kicking myself for not trying that sooner though.

I hooked all the safety switches back up and it still starts with the key. So the original problem was the deck switch and the inline fuse on the red wire. Deck switch was discontinued but I found one on ebay for $20. Just waiting for brake parts now.

Thanks for the diagrams, assistance, and patience.
 

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It does not matter which small terminal on the solenoid gets the power from the larger cable on the solenoid. As long as one of them has power all the time it is good.

The other small terminal is the one that grounds the solenoid coil to activate the solenoid when a start is called for.

Some applications use power to the solenoid coil to control it.
In your application they are using the ground to control it.

Later on as safety systems got more complex they control both the power and the ground to activate the solenoid coil.

Glad you figured it out.

Garry
 
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