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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up a toro 20622 that's in good shape deck and function wise but the engine itself seems word out. Between the oil burning all the time and oil smoke at start up that's real heavy and the blow bye at idle will launch the dip stick tube off of it. Anybody know of a direct swap like a harbor frieght predator would work on it or similar? I love the set up and cut. Thanks.
 

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The crank is pretty specific because of the bbc. They can smoke a tad, especially if the oil dip stick doesn't seal. It can be too much fuel at start up, like a leaky needle and seat. A cold engine that has excess fuel will burn white like oil. The real question is does it knock? I do have gone spare 4 cycle stuff if you need it. They are great mowers.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Any ideas on how to seal the cap? It's a odd side mount tube. Thanks for the tip.
 

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If you do want to replace the engine, it will be a challenge as podor said because of the bizarre BBC crankshaft. Your only options would be another older BBC engine (new BBC mowers use a different crank) or to use a straight crank and eliminate the BBC. But I think you should stick with the Suzuki.

Podor just scored a TON of Suzuki stuff including a good 4-stroker. I'd recommend looking at that first. The Predator may be okay but it's a far cry from the Suzuki. It's smooth and just plain tough. Only the Honda GXV can really offer a challenge. Even then, the Suzuki is pressure-lubed. If we could bolt a GXV carb onto the Suzuki, it'd be about perfect. :fing32: Oh, and add the Kawasaki oil drain valve. :trink40:

I'm not sure where your oil leak is coming from. It sounds like it's where the dipstick screws into the engine? There should be two tabs that lock the dipstick down and they're probably broken. Or the gasket may be bad. Either way, you must replace the whole dipstick. A common problem with these engines but well worth it.

The only other problems with these engines are the air cleaner box and fuel tank, both plastic. The air cleaner box fails in various ways and the fuel tanks like to leak at the seam. Otherwise, they're tough to kill.
 

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I have a good engine (price would be determined by how many parts you use from your old engine) and a long block (head, block and dipstick). Not sure about the long block though, but ill let it go for cheep. If I can do my part to keep those running, I'm happy to do it.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It leaks at the cap and will blow the dipstick completely out of the hole. It seems to run good under load but surges like crazy with the bbc disengaged and vibrates a ton. I usually only play with 2strokes but thought I'd try a 4stroke Suzuki for once and the F series are much easier than the 4. Thanks.
 

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Yup, the dipstick is broken. Some fool tried to tighten it hard. I had to duct tape mine down and even then it sprayed a little. New one costs about $18 on partstree but it has a metal rod instead of the original plastic. :fing32:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Awesome Yblock, I'm go me look at it real close and see what else it needs before I order it since shipping is kinda salty and all. Il probably grab a set of rings and gaskets for it too then. Anything else I should grab?
 

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Grab a valve cover gasket. The valves are probably a little noisy and will need a simple adjustment. The surge is because the carb (mainly the pilot jet that screws into the top of the carb) is dirty. If there is any noise with the blade engaged, you might want to get a bbc idler pulley and belt.

I would wait until you install the new dip stick before cracking it open and replacing the rings. I sold a super nice one that I used for a while. The guy that bought it somehow got the cap Stuck so it was about a 1/4" away from sealing. He wanted to return it because it Was smoking so bad. I went over and fixed the dipstick. The thing smoked like crazy, but cleared out after about 2 minutes. Im not sure, but crank pressure must help the oil ring seal. Plus the rings are $50.

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