[BXIluvu]

Having my septic tanks pumped in a few days which will require two digs of about 4 x 4 x 3 feet deep. Does anyone have experience using a small FEL to peel the sod and dig a hole of that size or am I better to revert to a shovel? My bucket is 4 feet and this will be my first pump-out on this property. Thanks for your thoughts.

Bryan

 

[Diesel Powered]

If you're careful, you could peel the sod in a few big pieces with the loader and store them on a piece of scrap plywood (or whatever you have laying around) so they're easier to pick up and put back. Actually digging down with the loader is certainly possible, but will be a lot easier if you come from more than one direction; having a tooth bar like the piranha setup would be ideal for something like this. Make sure you probe as you go so you don't hit/damage anything with the loader. Work smarter, not harder, then finish the last little bit with a shovel. :fing32:

 

[CADplans]

You did not say;

What tractor?

Soil conditions (clay, etc...)

how big of an area are you ready to disturb? 4x3x30? That is how a FEL digs a 3' deep hole.

 

[Larry LGT 165]

Are you sure it is that deep? We have 2 septic tanks and both are maybe one shovel deep. If it is that deep, where is the bed it seeps into? Our whole systems are maybe one foot down under the lawn. Here the tanks are always one 10' run of pipe from the house and if you know where the pipe comes out of the basement, that is exact center of the tank lids so we only dig maybe 2' wide, just enough to uncover the lids. If this is your first time digging it up, I'd do more eyeballing before you did a lot of digging. They generally aren't as difficult as you have stated.

 

[TUDOR]

You did not say;

What tractor?

Soil conditions (clay, etc...)

how big of an area are you ready to disturb? 4x3x30? That is how a FEL digs a 3' deep hole.

That's pretty close to the space that I needed to dig the 3.5' deep x 12' long trench for deck piers at my rental house. Actual ground disturbance was about 19' long x 4.5' wide (ramp and trench) but I needed another 10' at grade to turn the tractor away from the excavation for dumping the bucket. I couldn't make it any longer without moving the neighbour's house out of the way. The ramp was steep by the time I was finished. Not very much hand shovelling involved.

My soil was easy digging, no rocks, and the excavation was far enough from the big maple (15') that the roots weren't a problem either.

 

[CADplans]

Are you sure it is that deep? We have 2 septic tanks and both are maybe one shovel deep. If it is that deep, where is the bed it seeps into? Our whole systems are maybe one foot down under the lawn. Here the tanks are always one 10' run of pipe from the house and if you know where the pipe comes out of the basement, that is exact center of the tank lids so we only dig maybe 2' wide, just enough to uncover the lids. If this is your first time digging it up, I'd do more eyeballing before you did a lot of digging. They generally aren't as difficult as you have stated.

My neighbor's is buried 5 feet deep!! :hide:

He covered it before having the plumbing inspected at the new home.

He had to hire a backhoe to dig it up, they cap the tank, fill the system with water, it has to not leak down for a certain period of time.

The system was filled to the roof vent.

Mine is down 12". The tank pumping guy found it by driving a re-bar into the ground.

He hand dug it to pump it in 10 minutes.

 

[Larry LGT 165]

My neighbor's is buried 5 feet deep!! :hide:

He covered it before having the plumbing inspected at the new home.

He had to hire a backhoe to dig it up, they cap the tank, fill the system with water, it has to not leak down for a certain period of time.

The system was filled to the roof vent.

You lost me Cad ? At 5' down to the lids, where was the bed ?

I've done fill and leak down, but not including the tank. ?

 

[chaosracing]

My dads tank is 6' down. When they change the pumping rules, we had a friend dig the tank lid out with a back hoe, then shoveled the rest out. We then installed a riser and new lid so it just sits about 6" under the soil now. His drain field is down on the next level.

My tank is about 1' under the soil. I am planning on putting a flower/planting bed over it, so I am going to dig it out and build a riser out of pt so its easier to locate in the future.

 

[CADplans]

You lost me Cad ? At 5' down to the lids, where was the bed ?

I've done fill and leak down, but not including the tank. ?

Part of the pleasure of living in the mountains!! He wanted downstairs drains, so the tank had to be deep.

The drainage field was further downhill, causing the drainage field to be near the surface.

 

[Larry LGT 165]

Part of the pleasure of living in the mountains!! He wanted downstairs drains, so the tank had to be deep.

The drainage field was further downhill, causing the drainage field to be near the surface.

Guess I'm just a flatlander Cad. For below level drains here esp basement toilets we use a small indoor holding tank with a float controlled elect. sludge pump to discharge higher up. Basement washrooms may have a raised floor to conceal this. Laundry uses an inline pump on the drain. You just flip the switch and hear the hum.

 

[jar19800]

Guess I'm just a flatlander Cad. For below level drains here esp basement toilets we use a small indoor holding tank with a float controlled elect. sludge pump to discharge higher up. Basement washrooms may have a raised floor to conceal this. Laundry uses an inline pump on the drain. You just flip the switch and hear the hum.

there are parts here in the US such things are not allowed.

i can say to anyone using one here's a short story.

My grandparents built a Manor out in the county back in the 80's. the septic tank was higher than the basement sewer system. So they put in one of the sludge pumps. at the time a back flow valve was NOT required so they didn't put one in.

they sold the Manor and moved to town. they guy who bought the Manor parked Farm Tractors near the septic tank (not even thinking about it) one day the roof of the tank falls in...the entire house was...covered in that

:thSick:


the insurance company made a stink (pun intended) with the regulatory department now all new or repaired systems have to install a backflow valve.

 

[BXIluvu]

Thank you all so much for your replies and for the enlightening discussion...has helped me to get pumped up to tackle the pump out. Hadn't thought of the plywood, Diesel, but would be easier to clean up than the tarp I was planning on. No tooth bar, but the reminder to probe frequently is a good one. Cadplans..the tractor is a Kubota BX1860. These things are on the nicest part of my lawns so the disturbed area will be as small as I can make it. Under the topsoil is sandy gravel. I'm told we have an excellent perc rate. I was a little skimpy on the detail for brevity, Larry, but I'm sure the one lid is three feet for sure. Its a double tank system - first for solids which flow into the other tank as they liquify and are pumped into the weeping tiles by a float controlled pump. I had to have the pump replaced a couple of years ago, and the lid was a good three feet down. Put a purpose built plastic riser and lid on that one to bring it 18" from the surface to reduce the dig and will do the same with the other tank this time around. The ramp was what I was hoping to avoid, Bob. Had been wondering if I put the FEL edge straight down and lifted the front end of the tractor, I might be able to curl my way down....however, if that was possible I'm pretty sure you would have done it. I'm thinking I might run into some Western Red Cedar roots in the process, but well away from the buried services. Thank you all for you ideas and experience. This is not the kind of feedback I could get anywhere else and I really need to know. Just wanting to limit the damage, save a couple of bucks and get some seat time (and/or exercise) by having it ready for the pumper truck when he gets here.

Your help much appreciated.

Bryan

 

[Larry LGT 165]

Best of luck with the dig Bryan. Here the operators are happy to hand dig for the lids but charge by the hour for the truck too while they do it. Building a riser for next time is the way to go. Knowing where the lids are, we put a couple patio stones over them in the lawn to mark them, as we get pumped out every second summer. Oh and please, we want pics.

:wwp:

 

[TUDOR]

Bryan, if all you need is to dig out the covers, and you know where they are, you can dig down about 2.5 - 3' as you are suggesting. You're still going to use about 5-6' of length and you will have to finish with a shovel. I dug most of this with the bucket, but my bucket is a lot bigger than yours (22" from front to back). I dug the last 12" by hand. The top of the footing is 3.5' below grade and I was applying water proof membrane to the footing and wall.

Make sure you have adequate counter weight on before you put the front tires on a slope that steep. There's 650 lb on that MF1655. You don't get much in the bucket when digging at the bottom of the hole in that fashion, but you really don't want the tires spinning when you back out.

 

[MapleCabin]

Is this not a better tool. :fing20:

 

[JRC0528]

I've dug ditches around 16" deep with my BX2350, basically the same as yours. Without a ramp lead-in on the hole you're limited to about 14-16" digging depth, and that is with the bucket pointed straight down. Also the front of these machines is fairly light and doesn't tend to push the bucket straight into the ground very well. I use a ripper to loosen the soil as deeply as possible prior to removing the dirt with the FEL when I dig trenches for pipe. Usually some digging by hand is still needed to remove the last bit of dirt.

I've a feeling a tree spade on our smaller machines would do a much better job digging holes!

 

[TUDOR]

Is this not a better tool. :fing20:

Yes, it is, IF you have one!

I did excavations with a FEL for decades because I didn't have a hoe, but I had the FEL.

Now I have both and rarely need to dig a hole.

The best insurance policy against needing an expensive tool is to buy it! :dunno:

 

[MapleCabin]

Yes, it is, IF you have one!

I did excavations with a FEL for decades because I didn't have a hoe, but I had the FEL.

Now I have both and rarely need to dig a hole.

The best insurance policy against needing an expensive tool is to buy it! :dunno:

Sooo true Thats why I get my brothers from up the road once or twice a year :sidelaugh