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Tires, Tubes, and Mounting

4163 Views 22 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Beech33
Now that I have Carlisle Field Traxs (HDAP) ordered for the GT275, I need to know if tubes are required or recommended for the front and/or rear? Anyone have advice? I'm leaning toward tubes for the front and no tubes for the rear. I would hate to mount the front without a tube and then have to re-mount because of a leak.

Also, who do I get to do the mounting? JD dealer? or my regular local tire shop? What should I expect to pay for the mounting?

Thanks to all of you that are will to share your experiences!
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Is there a reason that you want tubes at all?
Tubing a tire is not particularly difficult to do yourself, but a few shops around me charge $5.00 per tire to mount, maybe a little extra to deal with the tube.
I also tubed my front field trax. They leaked when first mounted and tires plus charged me 10.00 per tube installed. They also changed the profile of the tire they made them a little rounder and IMHO match the profile of the rears better. And no leaks. Evan the fronts on my old X300 leaked over winter and would be flat in the spring so tubing the fronts should take care of that.
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if your going to add fluid for weight i would recomend tubes.
Is there a reason that you want tubes at all?
kind of an old school approach if you ask me. helps strengthen the tire i think. i have original 36 year old turfs on my ss16 that were tubed when they were bought and those tires have no cracking on them whatsoever
if your going to add fluid for weight i would recomend tubes.
So, you can use a tube if you are going to have your tires filled with some sort a liquid?
I have read on here many times where peeps have rust problems with the rims, with what ever they are filling their tires with.
Why did they not just put in tubes and not worry about any rusting?
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Why did they not just put in tubes and not worry about any rusting?
good point :banghead3
Does anyone mount their own tires or do they farm that out to the local tire shop?
Mark brings up a good question, whose answer has been debated in dozens of threads.

You know how Jacques Cousteau would bring up a cannon which had been in salt water for 500 years, and it was in good shape? You need oxygen to have metal oxidize.

So, in theory, if one put calcium chloride, or sodium chloride in a water solution into their tire, and the fluid entirely covered the rim at all times, you would in theory never experience rust. Several guys have weighed in on this theory with their experience.

Now, it would seem that if one used a tube, the metal would be even better protected, right?

But, we all get punctures, and that fluid leaks out of the tire in the case of tubeless, exposing the rim to air plus corrosive salt, you have rust. With tubed, the fluid could leak between the tube and tire, and work its way to the rim and you have rust.

Not to mention that leaking salt all over your sod is a bad thing.

So, salt is old school. What about a more modern non-freezing medium - say old car anti-freeze. Ethylene Glycol is pretty poisonous, and corrosive if it's from a radiator where it has become acidic.

So, how about more friendly alcohol based solutions? Windshield washer fluid? Kind of expensive, and weighs less than the chlorides per gallon. It can be mildly corrosive, whether tubed or not.

Propylene Glycol? (RV Anti-freeze). It's non-toxic, but a gallon of -100 degree stuff costs $27.

Plain old water? Maybe if you live in south Florida.

RimGuard? Beet juice. Non-toxic, non-freezing, and heavier per gallon than the chlorides. But you can only get it at a dealer. Perfectly safe, tubed or not.

Now, whether to tube or not as it's own issue. Let's say you are not going to liquid ballast. If you are using a metric tire on an old SAE rim, you may have trouble getting the bead to seat. Firestone tri-ribs and Vredestein V61s in 16x6.50-8 are none to be problematic, and a tube just makes life easier. If you plan to run slime, I feel it is better to use a tube as it is less messy than non-tubed should you wish to change tires.

I tube. Just my preference.
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Does anyone mount their own tires or do they farm that out to the local tire shop?
Yes I do. It's possible to do most Lawn and Garden tractor tires with no more than a good set of tire spoons. Breaking the bead on the old tires is the hardest part. I use my FEL for that.

You can also experience difficulty getting the bead to seat in tubeless tires, but a piece of rope or a ratchet strap takes care of that usually. I don't have that problem using tubes.

Mounting your tires on a nice hot day makes the job easier too. Lay your tires in the sun for a couple of hours, flipping them occasionally like hamburgers, and they almost fall onto the rim.
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DDog, that was a great explanation:trink39:
So i called my local tire shop and they will mount my tires for $10 per tire. Seems like a lot but I am willing to pay. Anyone get a better deal?? or is this in line with what you pay
The tires are arriving on Sat so I need to hear some advise. Thanks
Where are you in NC, Beech? If you're close to Hickory, I'll drop by and help you mount them. Take about an hour to do all four. Do you have a compressor? If not, bring them by here and I'll do it at my house.
Thanks for the offer Khoges! I'm in the Raleigh area. I can't wait till I get some better traction! Very hilly in the north Raleigh area and lots of rock in the read clay!
KHodges. I have a compressor. What tools do you use to changes the tires? I am very mechanically inclined, but don't have tire changing tools. Thanks again for the offer!
Tires plus mounted mine and put tubes in for 10.00 a tire.
Beech, if you were in MA, rather than NC, I could understand you being so cheap. (just kidding).

$10 per tire is going to pay a man's salary, pay mortgage on a shop, pay for a $2,000+ tire changer, compressor, handtools, etc. And by the time you figure in the cost of the counter person to write up the work order, billing, etc. you are talking 30 minutes or more per tire. Not a bad deal at all. Would you paint my house for me for $20 per hour and do a professional job (oh, and pay self employment tax, do bookkeeping, etc)?

Like I mentioned, breaking the bead is the hardest part. I've spent over an hour per tire until I decided to use my FEL.

Sounds like Khodges is the way to go, plus you get to meet another member.
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The front tires arrived today and they are the correct Carlisle Field Trax. Shipped from Summit's Ohio distribution center. Looks like Summit has some of the problems corrected. Waiting on the rears.
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