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Discussion Starter #1
I am thinking about adding another Bush Hog [Brush Hawg, Bushwacker - whatever] attachment and was wondering what to look for [and what to avoid] in older 1950s/1960s/1970s-era units.

Are there some bad models that you want to steer away from, and, if so, then how do you recognize them?

Ultimately I would like to "mod" the unit, so that it would be able to take one of the really large saw blades.

Something like these:







Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What do model numbers older than "106" look like?

The next one down looks like it's an "18" or a "18X" [maybe "185"?].

BTW, has anyone compiled a list of all the old Bush Hawg units?

Thanks.
 

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Gravelyyard.com
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The first Gravely 30" deck used a counter-clockwise drive that Gravely called a left rotary knife mower. The next ones were the 85-A, 185, and MA-601 (like the lower picture). These all share a common parts list. As far as I can tell, they are the same. Then came the MA-106. All of the drives after the 106 were made for the quick hitch.
 

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The 30" Gravely 106 mowers have the strong, reliable, one piece casting W/6 bolt flange, that bolts the unit together.

Older 30" decks have only 4 bolts, seen in your lower pic, that hold a seperate gearbox lower plate to main casting AND deck, via threads in the casting. This design makes them dramatically weaker resulting in leaks & looseness from banging it up & vibration. Early 30" decks had a seperate top plate, you can see the unique retainer at top of the shaft spin & they spin backwards.

As to whether there are "some bad models" it depends on your goal/interest. If you're restoring an early 50's Gravely L one of the early 'spinning top' decks can be very good. For rugged use 106 & newer designs are best.
 

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As I said "For rugged use 106 & newer designs are best." You know what a 106 looks like. The "newer designs" as arcam said "were made for the quick hitch" so you'd need a quick hitch adapter to run one.

I'm not sure all the newer ones were QH, but these decks look like flying saucers. Instead of simple vertical bolt on front & rear skirts w/welded sides, the housing is stamped in one big piece w/long sloping projections front & rear, to prevent things from being ejected.

The 106 is be the most common. IMO the much less common flying saucer would be kind of a shame to cut down to make a saw. No idea how the new gearbox compares w/106.
 

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The 106 is be the most common. IMO the much less common flying saucer would be kind of a shame to cut down to make a saw. No idea how the new gearbox compares w/106.
The gearboxes newer than the 106 are not as good. They use grease instead of oil and their castings are not as beefy and they use blades with square holes that fit on shafts with flat spots on them which results in (the 2 decks that I had come across) internal gears with broken teeth. Your better off with traditional blades with round holes so if the blade has to spin it can and I agree with Dunbarmule that it would be a shame to cut up one of these decks being that they are not made anymore. - Kris :rauch10:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I agree with Dunbarmule that it would be a shame to cut up one of these decks being that they are not made anymore. - Kris :rauch10:
Well I like the idea of having a little something back there in the way of a safety just in case something tries to come flying out too fast.

I've got the 18" saw blade attachment, but I have lots of underbrush which is larger than 9" in diameter at the base [the "thorny olives" - Eleagnus pungens - can be particularly bad in that regard].

And I even have one of the old 26" blades, from the "L" days, but I don't think that that design would be able to withstand the torque put out by a modern 12HP Kohler engine. Plus the old 26" blades don't have any safety on them at all...
 

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Gravely bug bit.
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Your better off with traditional blades with round holes so if the blade has to spin it can and I agree with Dunbarmule that it would be a shame to cut up one of these decks being that they are not made anymore. - Kris :rauch10:
Huh? You can still get new deck weldments. Current deck price is $461 without drive. It will come with the roller front but that is removeable/replaceable. Photo of that type deck is in my Custom photos. Gravely sells them for the Rapid. Richard's has the front and rear guards in stock. As for strenght, gears on the 106 and the QH are about the same. The problem is the fact the QH units don't run in oil. And that is bad.

Stay away from the LH or the 58, 58A or MA 601 as used in 1969. All of those bolt up thru the bottom.

Also, the bottom photo is a 185 casting. Same as the MA 601.
 

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You can still get new deck weldments. Current deck price is $461 without drive. It will come with the roller front but that is removeable/replaceable.Gravely sells them for the Rapid.
I didn't realize the rapid shell would bolt up to a 106 gearbox.
- Kris :rauch10:
 

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Well I like the idea of having a little something back there in the way of a safety just in case something tries to come flying out too fast.

I've got the 18" saw blade attachment, but I have lots of underbrush which is larger than 9" in diameter at the base [the "thorny olives" - Eleagnus pungens - can be particularly bad in that regard].

And I even have one of the old 26" blades, from the "L" days, but I don't think that that design would be able to withstand the torque put out by a modern 12HP Kohler engine. Plus the old 26" blades don't have any safety on them at all...
I understand what and why you want to do. Gravelys saw blades design is scary to say the least. Big saw blades uncovered spinning on the shaft nut that holds it on. :eek: Putting it in a 30" deck shell makes alot more sense. You could actually use your old saw blade it's the offset gearbox that you can't get parts for anymore that should be left as a museum piece. - Kris :rauch10:
 

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I have G.A.S.
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I know it looks terrifying & unsafe.
As I posted in the past, the 28" carbide blade I use is very controllable & smooth. Once you get all that Gravely steel between you & the blade & maKe sure nobody is in front of it, it's actually quite fun to use.
I've cut stumps, saplings, even plowed through some thick brambles & I feel very confidant in using it whenever needed.
Anyone who wants to add additional safety of guards & covers has my additional respect. I do after all make a portion of my living enforcing OSHA & EM-385 regulations on construction projects.







I have a Gravely 18" with it's dedicated obsolete gearbox, it looks cool hanging on the wall but I've never used it.
 

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I didn't realize the rapid shell would bolt up to a 106 gearbox.
- Kris :rauch10:
Same stamping and part number as the one under the 106 drive in my photo. 885001 is the Model # for the deck. 010110 is the old deck part #, 68507400 is the new #. Gravely also used that same deck for the 90 2006 SE 2-wheelers but left off the front roller guard and used the short drive QH and short guard ( CHROMED ) on them. That is the one part that I can give a part number on for the 2006 unit. The rest of the parts are secret numbers known only to Gravely. I couldn't even tell you if it is 4,6, or 8 lead. And NO, I'm not going to open mine up. :D Plus I kinow where there are 1 new deck weldment, 1 new complete deck, and one new short drive. ;)
 

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Gravely bug bit.
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I know it looks terrifying & unsafe.
As I posted in the past, the 28" carbide blade I use is very controllable & smooth. Once you get all that Gravely steel between you & the blade & maKe sure nobody is in front of it, it's actually quite fun to use.
I've cut stumps, saplings, even plowed through some thick brambles & I feel very confidant in using it whenever needed.
Anyone who wants to add additional safety of guards & covers has my additional respect. I do after all make a portion of my living enforcing OSHA & EM-385 regulations on construction projects.


I have a Gravely 18" with it's dedicated obsolete gearbox, it looks cool hanging on the wall but I've never used it.
I too have one of the original saw blades and drives but instead will use the 28" saw on the 106 or QH drives. Deck will be modified to have a wedge cut out like in photo one of NBS's but with angle iron on top to reinforce the V. Plus if someone has to have an original unit, I can get another. Gravely sold the guards for the early and 106 drives as an option.
 

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huh? i am confuse.....
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I would stick with the 106 drives (that's the one on the top). They are the most modern, the most reliable, and you can still get factory parts and after market parts for them.
:howdy:
forgive the resurrection of this post, but I think the question I have relates to this posting pretty well...

Were there different Model 106 assemblies?
:dunno:

I seem to have one deck labeled 106 with a large Hex bolt topped fitting on top, slightly protruding... and another deck labeled 106 with a much more promonemtly protruding square bolt head topped fitting on top of the assembly...

The deck I have with the hex shaped top plug has the sloped shaped end attachments with the roller ball... came with the 450 project

Hopefully I can grab some photos this weekend to illustrate...

*edit* found online examples...

my first guess is that these variations indicate production run adjustments over time.... :fing32:
 

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Active member, now deceased, but not forgotten.
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:howdy:
forgive the resurrection of this post, but.......
Actually appreciate that you did so. So.... What kind did I buy?
A look inside the gear box. I'm understanding a lack of oil means i may be starting with a bottom seal?

Front will need some minor bangin' A look at the business on the bottom
 
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