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TIP: Removing broken studs / bolts

2308 Views 10 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  KRS
This might be an old trick, but, I just figured it out. I had some bolts broken off on my brothers tractor. Broken off flush and really rusted. Sprayed and left them sit for 3 days, spraying every time one of us walked by. Then drilled and started with an easy-out. I have never had much luck with easy-outs and not this time either. The (^%#@) easy-out broke off. Looking at it I could see that the one we were working on was completely broken off flush. One of the other ones had about a 16th of thread sticking out. Knowing it wouldn't work, I sit a burr on the top to see if I could grab a thread. Nope. While sitting back and looking at the nut sitting there, it hit me. I left the nut sitting on top of the stud and got the wire-feed welder out. I welded inside the nut and attached it to the stud bolt. The combination of the spray, heat, tapping on the top of the stud and all the swearing worked. Put the vise grips on the nut and started to wiggle it. Tapping on the top, wiggle and spray and wiggle and spray. I got them all out this way.
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I've had some luck with easy-outs and more luck with the stubby screw extractors Sears sells.
Welding a nut on reminds me of back 40 years ago. I was working in a machine shop and at morning coffe break one Friday I was livid. I had spent the week on one part and in the last operation, I broke off an 0-80 tap.
Geno, the welder asked why I was so peed and I told him my sad tale
He told me, after break, to bring the part and the rest of the tap to the welding shop.
10 minuted later I showed up with the part and the tap. He went in a cabinet and came out with a helmet he kept in a wooden box and in a felt draw string bag, sat at the welding bench, fiddled with some settings and welded the tap back together. He clamped the part to the bench and handed me a tap key and a loupe. The sucker came right out!
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