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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Saw is an Echo 330, a small "limber" for one-handed use. Here's the problem. I was climbing a ladder yesterday to lop off some low hanging branches. My helper was standing on the ground, holding the saw while it was running. You should have seen the puddle of bar oil laying on the asphalt. Several ounces after the saw was running for 10 minutes or so. This was not runoff from the chain. This was pure clean bar oil that came out of the reservoir.

So, I have not yet played with the saw to understand how the automatic oiler works. The saw cost all of about $150 maybe 10 or 12 years ago, and it doesn't owe me a thing. Only other problem is that it needs a carb adjustment. Other than the oil issue, the saw ain't too bad. I don't have unlimited time to play with the oiler and buy a replacement part. Question: Keep it or scrap it?

Recommendation for a replacement saw if it's time to put this saw out of its misery?
 

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It's not a hard fix. It's about how much time versus money is in your equation.

If it were me, I'd keep it. But I usually fix everything - it's already paid for and no need to deal with the EPA features on the newer chainsaws
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's not a hard fix. It's about how much time versus money is in your equation.

If it were me, I'd keep it. But I usually fix everything - it's already paid for and no need to deal with the EPA features on the newer chainsaws
I just started looking at prices for little saws. Pricey for sure. So maybe will take a shot at a repair.

LB: Where would you start looking first? It only leaks oil while it is running. Oil Lines? The auto oiler?
 

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I suggest having a go at repairing it, Echo is a good brand. Check the oil pump output line, it may be cracked. It can be accessed by removing the clutch, left hand thread so righty loosey. You mentioned 'one handed use'. That is a very dangerous practice, if the saw kicks back you will have no control and probably not enough time to activate the brake. It is designed for two handed use in the close quarters of a tree.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Roy: doesn't clutch removal require removal of spark plug and jamming some clean rope in the cylinder so the piston doesn't move when you unscrew the clutch?

Good heads-up on the LH thread.
 

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Roy: doesn't clutch removal require removal of spark plug and jamming some clean rope in the cylinder so the piston doesn't move when you unscrew the clutch?

Good heads-up on the LH thread.
Shops use an impact wrench but make sure you know what you are doing.:tango_face_surprise
 

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Your saw may not have a problem. Depending on how it is made, some saws oil all the time the saw is running. Others only when the chain is turning.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Shops use an impact wrench but make sure you know what you are doing.:tango_face_surprise
C5: I took off the side plate, chain, and bar. I am now looking at the clutch..... I don't see anything on the clutch that I can grab on to to remove it from the crank shaft. Clutch just freewheels in either direction.

Any tips to help remove that clutch? I can see the automatic oiler below it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Your saw may not have a problem. Depending on how it is made, some saws oil all the time the saw is running. Others only when the chain is turning.
I'm thinking about calling Echo and asking that question about it oiling all the time while it is running. That will make me feel real stupid for taking it apart when nothing is wrong. What the ****? Mother-in-law says I am.
 

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You can probably find excellent tutorials on YouTube. If nothing else, watching them may help your decision (replace, repair yourself or get it serviced).

Hope this helps.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You can probably find excellent tutorials on YouTube. If nothing else, watching them may help your decision (replace, repair yourself or get it serviced).

Hope this helps.

Mike
Mike: I've been searching all over the 'net for instructions and / or videos on how to remove the Echo clutch and oiler. Not having much luck. If you have any good data on how to take off the clutch from the driveshaft, I am all ears. Definitely no Echo-specific clutch removal.
 

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You better throw that saw away, better yet, send it to me and I'll throw it away for you lol.

Echo is a good saw. I would certainly try to fix it first. If you truly just want to buy another saw (can't blame you, saws are fun) the Stihl 020T/200T is a tough one hander to beat. You can probably a good used one for a pretty good price if you look around. Check out OPEforums in the for sale section.
 

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Feed a piece of starter rope into the spark plug hole and turn the crankshaft until the piston hits it. Now give the clutch rotor a good rap with a 2# hammer and drift punch. Same with reinstalling it and install the bar and chain before starting the saw. You don't want the clutch coming off at 9,000 rpm, don't ask how I know.
 

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You need a special tool to remove the clutch on the 330 and many other Echo saws.
It looks like this -





It fits on top of the Y shaped center part of the clutch with the pins in the corners



 

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Mike: I've been searching all over the 'net for instructions and / or videos on how to remove the Echo clutch and oiler. Not having much luck. If you have any good data on how to take off the clutch from the driveshaft, I am all ears. Definitely no Echo-specific clutch removal.
I've seen several Echo vids, not specifically for 330, but most likely apply across models for removing the clutch. There's at least one showing how to do it without the special tool (use a screwdriver or punch as mentioned above.

My saw is a Husqy, and there are awesome videos for those. Maybe it's a good thing if there aren't as many broken down Echos, lol...

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You better throw that saw away, better yet, send it to me and I'll throw it away for you lol.

Echo is a good saw. I would certainly try to fix it first. If you truly just want to buy another saw (can't blame you, saws are fun) the Stihl 020T/200T is a tough one hander to beat. You can probably a good used one for a pretty good price if you look around. Check out OPEforums in the for sale section.
I like this response. Good and sarcastic. I owe you a cold one.
 

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C5: I took off the side plate, chain, and bar. I am now looking at the clutch..... I don't see anything on the clutch that I can grab on to to remove it from the crank shaft. Clutch just freewheels in either direction.

Any tips to help remove that clutch? I can see the automatic oiler below it.
You need a special tool to remove the clutch on the 330 and many other Echo saws.
It looks like this -





It fits on top of the Y shaped center part of the clutch with the pins in the corners




Yup, that's what you need to fit the clutch. Some take an old socket and make one.
 

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Saw is an Echo 330, Here's the problem...My helper was standing on the ground, holding the saw while it was running. You should have seen the puddle of bar oil laying on the asphalt. Several ounces after the saw was running for 10 minutes or so. This was not runoff from the chain. This was pure clean bar oil that came out of the reservoir

I strongly suspect that the chain oiler pumps full time while the saw is running. Looking at the parts diagram, it looks to be a crankshaft driven drive gear. I have an Echo CS-400, and it has a similar setup. The oiler is driven via the crankshaft (not the clutch) so it oils full time while idling. So as far as the oil system, I don’t think you have a problem with your 330.
 
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