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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Below is the deck that came with my 332. As you can see, the front right side is in pretty rough shape. It's missing the support plate on that side, is bent backwards, and looks as though someone has beat out a section to clear the blade because of the bend. So I guess my question: Is this worth trying to repair, or should I be looking for another deck (or deck shell)? I have been looking around a bit, and it seems most other decks I'm finding aren't in much better shape. What has been your collective experience with this? Any thoughts on the replacement 48C?

Thanks in advance,

Erik

Leaf Plant Rust Plant stem  Anole


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I would take that to a local metal shop and I'd bet for $75 - $125 they fix you right up. A 48 inch replacement used is going to go $500 and a used 50 inch deck will run you $250 - $450 depending on condition. The 50 inch deck has an amazing cut the 48 inch deck is good but not like the 50 inch deck!
 

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Well not a JD, But I have a 50" deck with simular problems. After some work, and fabing, and a professional welder, I think it will turn out fine.

PS it is for a Ford LGT145.
 

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I don't have any experience with the 48" deck but I will say that my 332 with a 50" deck with the speed up pulley is amazing. I ran two sets of Gator blades to make an X on each spindle this year and it cuts pretty sweet. It cuts/chops it up fine enough and blows it far enough out that clumping is nonexistant. Sorry but I have no tips on how to fix the bends other than heat and a hammer.

P218
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would take that to a local metal shop and I'd bet for $75 - $125 they fix you right up. A 48 inch replacement used is going to go $500 and a used 50 inch deck will run you $250 - $450 depending on condition. The 50 inch deck has an amazing cut the 48 inch deck is good but not like the 50 inch deck!
Thanks for the feedback on the cuts between the two. I have been wondering about that.

So, it seems like most think I should go about repairing the existing deck. So, my next question would be: Has anyone made any mods to strengthen the deck on this side? If so, pictures would be great. I was thinking of maybe adding some round bar to the bottom, similar to what's on my 4110's deck. Not that I plan on running into things, but this seems to be an inherently weak spot of the deck based on the others I've seen with roughly the same problem.
 

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I have a 50" deck on my 318 and its cuts beautifully.
On yours, besides the dented portion it looks to be in decent shape. If it was me I would fix it up, amazing what a little heat, hammer and paint will do.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I have a 50" deck on my 318 and its cuts beautifully.
On yours, besides the dented portion it looks to be in decent shape. If it was me I would fix it up, amazing what a little heat, hammer and paint will do.

Thanks for the pictures Blown67. Yes, the deck is in pretty good shape otherwise. The bearings seem to spin free and quiet by hand and other than surface rust, is pretty solid. Amazing, considering it's been just sitting outside unused for 12 years or so.

PS, if you ever want to stop by and give me a ride in that Chevelle, let me know. :D
 

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Yes unfortunately with the opening on the discharge there any bump on the housing at that point tends to push it back and the blade will grab it pretty quick! Your idea sound about as good as any I've heard and I just normally take one of my persuaders out and put things back in place!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes unfortunately with the opening on the discharge there any bump on the housing at that point tends to push it back and the blade will grab it pretty quick! Your idea sound about as good as any I've heard and I just normally take one of my persuaders out and put things back in place!
Excuse the crappy photo, but I was thinking about something like this...
 

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On my 50", I had the welder add extra support under the front brace mounts where it had cracked. Also replaced the 1/2 round discharge shute brace with 1X1/4 which should prevent push in if run into something. As for the mandrill mounts holes, they were rust pitted and the welder didn't have a way to re-inforce them, so I used JB Weld to beefen up the area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the pictures Larry. Those look like some good ideas. I really like the discharge shoot brace.
 

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Thanks for the pictures Larry. Those look like some good ideas. I really like the discharge shoot brace.
The brace is a replacement where the PO broke the orginal and just bent it up out of the way. This allowed the front of the discharge shute to be bent in and wore the front roller in a candle shape. Took a lot of heat, and wood wedges to get it sprung back in shape.... And yes the wedges kicked out a couple times richoet off the walls. Finally got it to 18"
 

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THE TRACTOR HUNTER
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Take it to a local shop and have them fix it. Spend a few dollars and save your time trying to fix it and doing it half arshed unless of course you know how to heat, shape, and weld metal well....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Take it to a local shop and have them fix it. Spend a few dollars and save your time trying to fix it and doing it half arshed unless of course you know how to heat, shape, and weld metal well....
I've got a few connections in that department. :fing02:
 
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